I'm stoked... looking good Steve. I'd be inclined to axe the clutch fan.... and also buy a Walker radiator. I've had good luck with them, 2X. ________ John
Mike, here is a pic. that shows the engine fan actually hangs below the radiator. The lower rad. hose connection is so close, I cannot get a finger between the fan blade and the hose. (if it were there) I will probably buy a water pump elbow that either swivels, or is straight. I've got to research that as these truck engines usually have the thermostat built in. I will probably just clamp a big vise-grip on the heater hose nipples and pull them out, then, pipe thread for some 45, or 90 degree barbs. Zig. Remember, this is just another test fit. I'm not going to be driving around the block anytime soon. Especially since I'm back to blowing diesel smoke every day. John, I think your right about an electric fan. Also, I agree, a Walker radiator would be the best choice. Unfortunately, also the most expensive. I WILL be looking for a deal on one at NSRA. Here is my list for the Street Rod Natls. so far... Lokar shifter for the 4L60E. Lokar emergency brake lever, trans. mounted. A radiator, pref. Walker. Finally a stand alone, engine controller, probably, F.A.S.T. Will hold off on a trans controller until I decide on rebuilding the old trans. I have, or, a new 4L65E. Steve.
Steve, the thermostat isn't built in. There are straight and swivel necks out there, but all the ones I have seen are $pendy. 90-degree heater hose bibs are available, and I even saw a picture of a setup where the original bib locations were plugged, and new holes were drilled above the originals (at a 45-degree angle, aiming UP). I like how that oriented the hoses, as my engine is offset to the passenger side by 1-1/4"- making the bibs even closer to the inner fender. And Zig, no hunting, not nearly enough fishing. Busy with the land for the new house. Sticked and stacked 5,000+ board feet of Red Oak boards the last couple days- we had them milled on site, and I brought them home to my house to stack.
Steve... with your fab. skills I am sure you can adapt a Lokar emergency brake to your truck. I used their vertical style brake on my '27 Ford RPU, and adapted it to the '85 Ford 4-speed. Once you have the brake kit making brackets isn't all that difficult.
Sorry for the serious post, but... This is a reminder to my forum friends to tell anyone who will listen to PLEASE DON'T TEXT AND DRIVE! Please don't drive distracted at all. Wednesday morning, a friend of mine since school days was stopped for an accident on I-74, here in Indiana. A second semi-truck came up behind and was unable to stop. As you can see, the result was horrible. The driver of the flatbed's condition has not been officially reported, but, I've been told it is not good. My friend, the Kenworth owner, was OK. And, yes, that is a propane trailer. These types of events are occurring all the time now. People need to LEAVE THE CELL PHONES ALONE, while driving! Thanks, Steve.
Steve, Feel free to interject a serious post. It's YOUR thread. And, it IS serious. Be safe my friend.
Yikes.... the more we drive and see how other folks are driving, the less we want to drive. Common sense is a lost commodity.
Thanks, Mike. In thirty seven years of driving, I've never been as concerned about my, and others safety as I am now. I would truly like to retire from this business. Modern distracted drivers are even worse than drunk drivers, IMO. A drunk driver is usually at least ATTEMPTING to operate his vehicle. (I do not condone drunk driving.) A modern driver involved with a smart phone, is totally disengaged from the task of driving. In a seven day period, ending with the morning my friend was hit, there were three accidents of this type that occurred in my local area. Indiana state road 36, a farmer on a tractor hit by a loaded dump truck. Daytime, dry road, long, straight section of road, hit at highway speed, the farmer was killed. Indiana state road 39, a semi, stopped at road constuction, rear-ended by a sedan, again, at full highway speed. If the guy in the auto survived, it is a true miracle. Again, sunny, dry, straight road, with big orange construction ahead signs. And then, my friend... I'll drop this subject, now. Steve.
Back to more cheerful thoughts.... I did make it to the NSRA, Nationals, Louisville. The thing is so big, a guy needs two days, really. I could not possibly see all the cars, the swap meet, and the vendors. They even copied Goodguys, and had an autocross, which I heard, but, didn't go see. I did purchase some of the things on my list. The Lokar shifter. The FAST, LS engine controller. Many $$$! Ouch. A 8-pack of LS2, injectors. A steering u-joint for that funky v-style Ford R&P, unit, Fatman sent in my front end kit. I took my lunch, so as to avoid having to buy a $8 hot dog. The deals were not as good as I've seen in past shows. At least it didn't seem so, to me. John, the Walker radiator, without an AC condensor, was $730. Didn't buy, but, only because my wallet was getting pretty light, by the time I found them. I'll have to ponder that one, a little longer. Steve.
Wow, on all counts. Street Rods are so main stream I gave up on car shows and nationals about 20 years ago... and prices have seemed to followed the theme of the high dollar builders. Back when I built my 2 old Ford Hot Rods prices were just starting to get crazy. That being said, Walker builds a great product that fits and works right out of the box. Nothing worse than a vehicle that overheats. The chopped radiator from Walker on my Model A cools the old school 375 HP 355 sbc with ease. Now that it has been awhile.. is you're KW friend doing OK? As for the other trucker... I'm not sure a headache rack has ever been designed to withstand that much steel, traveling at that speed.
Wow, is right, John. I knew from the beginning this truck project was going to be expensive. And now I know why quality street rods are priced so high. I'm pretty much on the budget I penciled out before starting. I could list it all, so far, right down to the penny. Excluding shop consumables, and my labor. I cannot imagine paying a shop to build me a turn-key car. Walker's regular, non show special, price for the radiator is $812.66. Seems awful high to me, but, then most things do. The high price would not even be remembered, if I was sitting on the side of a busy interstate highway, with a hot truck. I saved basically $200, on the FAST stuff, over the best interweb price I could find. And, I really beat on the guy to try and get more... If you ever sell any of your cars, be careful not to under price, in this high cost world. My friend is fine. The Kenworth might well be totaled. The damage, visible to the front end, was caused because he was hit so hard, his truck was shoved into the vehicle in front of him, along with the guard rail. I'm guessing the main frame rails are probably kinked near the front of his fifth wheel. I still don't know about the driver of the flatbed. I'm told he didn't make it, but, that is not official. They don't design headache racks to stop 50,000 lbs., from 70MPH, to zero, in 20 feet. Steve. P.S. Imagine, (I really don't want to) if my friend had not been there. Instead of his 80,000 truck, to stop the flatbed. Or, if he was hauling gasoline...
Update on my friend's KW... It is totaled. I'm told the frame is damaged and the truck was shoved by the impact into the vehicle and guard rail in front of him. That front end impact pushed the radiator into the engine so hard, it broke the engine mounts, pushing the engine into the firewall. The KW is a relatively low mileage 2007. There is no way he will find a similar replacement. And, as with all owner-ops., if you can't work, you have no income. Steve.
Since time is of the essence.. is big rig insurance like car insurance in regard to getting a loaner vehicle? _____ John
John, Truck insurance for commercial trucks is not much like standard auto coverage. Short term rentals of class 8 trucks would be difficult, and not covered by insurance. If you could find one, you would have to spend the money and time to configure it to do the job. PTO's, hydraulic system, pumps, etc. I'm guessing they, (the insurance company) have already cut him a check, but, for much less than true replacement cost. His options as a leased, owner operator, are, take a seat in a company owned truck, if one is available. For true independents, like myself, it would be shop fast, or, go find a job. Steve.
Finally... After Months...A little 50 Chevy therapy... Decided I would turn off the cell-phone and just escape to my project. Even for just a couple hours. I thought I would go ahead and test fit the Lokar, shifter, that has been on the shelf for awhile. I know... baby steps, again, but I took pictures so I thought I would share. Second picture shows position of the shifter while in "Park". Third picture shows the position in "1st, or LOW" The long stick has much more of a throw, than I figured. It is not at all uncomfortable while sitting in the drivers position. I could put a shorter stick on it if needed. The knob, as you can see, gets very close to the bottom of the dash. My only thought on that is, it might be a problem with an A.C., install. I don't precisely know how close it will be to the seat in Low gear. I'm determined to have a bench seat, hopefully original. I think it will clear OK. These cabs sure are small. Sorry about the last one being sideways.??? I'm now trying to figure out the E-brake install. Steve.
Steve, If the pivot point were further from the mounting plate, you would have less knob-travel to achieve the same gear-lever travel. Huh, more pivot/lever/travel math, this time it's Steve! AND, I too had some 53 Chevy therapy last Friday (I know, pictures or it didn't happen- which is why I haven't posted it), Penny's driver's side door got some metalwork-love. Damn, that felt good!
Math...never did like it much... Mike, I think I'll just leave it with a long stick. I think the seat will clear, OK. It will probably be real close. If she decides to slide over in the middle, she will just have to... well... move her knees for me to get in gear... Steve.
Added the Lokar E-Brake kit. Decided on the Lokar, Trans. mount kit. I had to fabricate a "relocation" bracket, so as to move the mounting location to clear the "hump". I also wanted to move the pivot point on the e-brake handle up, as close as possible to the bottom of the floor board. I like this setup much better than the original. Steve.
