Huck Brakes finished

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by MISurfer, Aug 21, 2007.

  1. MISurfer

    MISurfer Member

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    Sorry to make this a new thread but just wanted you guys to know after all the posts on the previous thread I started, I finished the brakes and drove my panel truck on a test run today. So far, they are working fine. I am taking Nates advice and breaking them in slow. Slow stops, over and over to set the shoes. At first my brake light stayed on and I couldn't get that last inch of brake pedal to return. So I climbed underneath and lengthened the rod on the MC just past the rattle point. Worked! To some of you, this whole thing is a walk in the park. To rebuild all my brakes, cylinders, hoses and a new tube plus scrapping off 60 years of gunk, cleaning, airwirebrushing every part, repaint and put back together has been a great learning experience for me. It has given me the confidence to move to the next project. Pulling the pan to see how bad these bearing are and this winter I will be rewiring to 12 volt. Thanks for all your help. I'll keep you informed and keep asking questions when stuck. Brian
     
  2. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Good deal, Lucille!

    To borrow a phrase from Little Richard! Ain't nothing wrong with Hucks. Smoked them for years. Bendix brakes are better but...Keep them properly adjusted and they will last awhile. Doesn't it feel good when you get something done that you didn't think you could do? Always worked wonders for me. BTW, I've got a '52 panel rotting down in the woods in W. Tn that i'd love to bring back to life. How about some pics of yours? Pretty pls!
     
  3. MISurfer

    MISurfer Member

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    Here's couple of photos. I have to take some newer ones. I added some vintage beauty rings today. Don't let that poor panel die out there in the woods! Brian
     

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  4. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Very good Brian ! .

    Remember : the brake pedal _will_ begin to sink as the shoes bed in , not a problem , just take your time and re-adjust as needed , TWO adjusters per wheel.... ;)

    If your 216 isn't knocking , leave the bearings alone ! . they're easy to screw up if you misplace a bit of shim or whatnot .

    To check for rod knocks : run the engine untill it's fully heated up then park it and stick your head under the hood , rev. the engine up to road speed in neutral (about 3,000 RPM) then slam the throttle shut quickly ~ if there's a loose rod , it'll tap or knock just a couple-three times the instant you release the throttle .
     
  5. MISurfer

    MISurfer Member

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    Hey Nate, when you say "two adjusters", do you mean two turns on each "star wheel" on the wheel cylinder? How long do I drive it or what is a reasonable time before adjusting? Then, do you continue to adjust them or is there a point where you go "they're seated" and leave em alone? The panel has a 1955 235 in it. Gordon, who used to post on here was the former owner, and he had a mechanic pull the pan and check the main bearings on the crankshaft. He said that they were scored to the point of seeing copper. I am simply at this point going to pull the pan, drain the oil, and check for metal in the pan and do a visual of the crank. Any work on the crankshaft is left up to a shop, not me. My brother in law is my mechanical mentor and can help on whatever my project is. I continue to look for a local 235 full pressure here in the MI area. Lots on epay, but none local as of yet. Had a price of 1500 for a total engine that had been rebuilt in Grand Rapids MI. 1400 to rebuild my present engine. I see them online in different areas far cheaper and rebuilt ones to boot. I am patiently watching for a good deal or a wizard mechanic who wants the job. Thanks again, Brian
     
  6. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    Grasshopper Jr. will chime in here!

    Never would I ever profuse to be as knowledgeble as the Master, but I'll field this one for him. On Hucks, each shoe is adjusted by turning the "star" ends of the slave cylinders on top of the brake assembly. They are "pivoted" on the bottom. Each turn of the "stars" adjusts either the back or the front. On the Bendix setup, there is one adjustor that is located at the bottom of the shoes. Advantage of the Bendix? Adjustment happens to both shoes at once. On Hucks, each shoe has to be adjusted independently. More tendious, but acheivable.

    So Master, did I come close to snatching the marble out of your hand, or I'm I whizzing in the wind as usual?:D
     
  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Where's My Marble ?!

    That's it ~ two star adjusters per wheel is what I meant . new shoes adjust to no drag whatsover , once bedded in I like to set them to where I can barely hear the SH , SH of the low spot on the drum touching the high part of the shoe as you turn it by hand but NO dragging as that'll make 'em glaze up .

    When to adjust is a relative thing , I figure as soon as the brake pedal isn't as high when you step on it as it was when first you replaced the shoes...

    Certainly by the time it's stopping 1/2 way to the floor .

    I bet that '55 235 has lots of life left in it ~ the usual situation is thus : old truck (car , boat whatever) so no one bothers to ever change the oil as it runs fine anyway right ? dirt & sludge wears the bearings untill the Babbit is worn right through and the bottom end becomes noisy , then the timing drifts as is normally does over time and finally the valves get tight and it begins to get hard to start , one day the owner steps back and looks at this rusty beat up old thing and says ' why am I wasting time with this ? '
    and that's it ~ they junk it or just leave it sitting in a pool of muddy grease for 20 years.... enter cheapskate Nate who adjusts the valves and does a compresion test , if it has over 90 # or so per cylinder he then files the points and sets the dwell and timing , gaps or replaces the spark plugs , changes the oil and fires that nasty , dirty grease - caked old lump up ~
    98 % of the time it runs just fine but won't show any oil pressure @ idle and only 10 ~ 16 pounds @ 3,000 RPMs but since it runs well , he takes the pan off and slips in a set of rod & main bearing shells , buttons it back up , de-greases and re-paints the engine , runs it another 60,000 hard mles and keeps a couple of the very worst bearing shells in the glovebox to show his amazed buddies at how badly worn one of these wonderous engines can be abused then brought back to life in a week and $200.00 .....

    That's my story , you're looking for a full pressure 235 and it might be right there in your dooryard .
    :rolleyes:
     

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