stearing shaft and break ans clutch pedal ideas

It has been since last post, and I am still working on THE project.
A 53 chevy trucy w/ 5 window cab,that sits on an s-10 frame.
The motor will be a chevy 383 and a t-5 trany.
The rear end is a firebird 3.08 limited slip with disk brakes

Question: how do I design the stearing linkage.At this time it looks like the u-joints will go thru the ex manifold. Will this be a problem, how close can they be to the tubes.

Question:
Brake and clutch pedal set up. I want to use the stock stearing shaft. But the pedals will have to be made. The s-10 set up, puts the brake to far from the gas. What have other people used or how to fab some thing.
Any and all help.
Herman

Some others put the s10 master on the firewall and swing the pedal where you need it by heating the shaft.

Use the U joint steering shaft from Borgeson to re route the steering shaft around the exhaust manifold.

thanks,
It seams like a lot of bends to take the stearing, is this the best idea.
what do others say

Steering problem

I used the s-10 pedal and bracket.I had to trim the bracket where it met the dash.I moved the engine 1 1/2" off center to the passenger side and used the s-10 column.I had to lengthen the shaft about 8".It was a straight shot.I ..also lengthened the brake pedal and offset it about 3" toward the accelerator. Everything worked out good.Evan(Coilover) has also done the s-10 swap so he could know a easier way.If he gives any advise,pay close attention.Hope this helps.

I had to use a 3 joint setup in mine. It comes off the steering shaft, about 2 inches, goes into a joint. The 3/4 rod then goes through a hiem joint welded to the frame, then another joint. Now from this joint to the steering rack. Don't ding the headers, you may cut down the performance. Keep the shafts in straight line as much as possible to keep steering effort to a m inimum.

I am looking at the idea of using the s-10 brake /clutch but cutting and changing in order to move it closer to the gas pedal. What I dont know yet is where is the best place for the vacuum booster/master cylinder on the fire wall in relation to the steering column (above but on what side left or right)
At this point the motor is located in the center of engine compartment. the camaro exhaust manifold that works with the t-5 tranny, has two of the runners bulged out and it is a pretty straight line for the steering shaft, but it will go through the pipes, will this get to hot on things.
When using the original steering column I will be cutting it to a shorter length will I be able to get a bearing to keep the shaft centered in the steering column.

https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=7908
Shows how to set up the steering shafts.

thanks buddy,
that was the info I was looking for on how to deal with a steering set up.
Now if only I can get some more info on making pedals

Use flat stock, 1/4" cut to shape, then bend as needed. Make cardboard templates to do your 'cipherin, then transfer to steel.

Post us some pic.s to see what you re working with.

I have found that by raising the steering column to the top of the hole in the toeboard one can use a stock GM steering shaft from 70's era cars/trucks. It's the one with the two flat sides on the shaft and it slips into a female tube with a matching profile. The upper end has the factory slip joint and the factory rag joint is on the bottom. No after market U-joints or other parts are needed for a setup that's safe and CHEAP. If you use a column shifter a new hole is needed for the shifter shaft that is just above the factory column hole in the firewall. Usually use a smaller diameter dual diaphram (Toyota) brake booster to use as little space as possible cause things get crowded in a hurry. Here's a couple pics of one that the engine is dead center and the steering shaft clears the Chevelle type exhaust manifold. One shot seems to have the bolt clashing with the manifold but the other shows it's actually above the manifold. Remember the engine torques away from the shaft in all forward gears. Oh yeah, to position the engine so one can use a factory straight non U-jointed shaft we weld a piece of 1/2" thick plate to the front crossmember and drill and tap it for 3/8 bolts to hold on the factory 4.3 engine mount which is the same as a V8 mount. (last picture).