Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:37 PM

As is customary a build thread starts at the purchase of the truck and continues through till the end of the build. But here a couple current status photos of the old shop truck, just so you know where this is all headed:

THE BUILD THREAD STARTS HERE
Purchased in Aug. 2008.

The good list:
350 4 bolt small block Chevy, '70 vintage

M-21 4-speed, '65 vintage

Short Bed

Some rust, but better than average

The bad list:
Wrong bed (67-72)

Shifter hangs in second gear

Flame wrench drop job

Leaks oil big time

Turquoise truck rallies

Here is the description of the truck off the Craigslist add dated 08-13-2008

1965 chevy short box step side, this truck is 43 years old and has its problems but they are small things and one good days work without spending any money would fix 98% of it. The chassis and body are solid and it’s a kick in the pants to drive. I hate to see it go but it’s not practical for what I need in a shop truck. It’s powered by a rip’n 350 four bolt with a Muncie side loader four speed, three inch Flowmaster exhaust, 12 bolt rear end and brand new tires with less than 1000 miles. As for cosmetics the only thing I have done is reupholster the 90 Chevy bench seat, the body has the common rust in the bottom of the fenders and a couple bubbles in the bed but not bad overall. Like I said it’s very solid. Great platform for a muscle truck, hot rod or rat rod and very dependable, I have let it set for months at a time and it always fires up on the first crank

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:39 PM

Camaro Hood Louvers Aug. 2008

Another Ebay purchase: 68-69 Camaro SS Hood Louvers. I wanted to break up the expanse of the hood and these classic Chevy trim pieces are old school cool. Easy install since the underhood cross bracing on these trucks is minimal.

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:40 PM

Custom Cab Trim Aug. 2008
West Coast Mirrors Oct. 2008

More EBay scores. The mirrors were a bit knarly when they arrived but being made from stainless I was able to polish 'em up.

I like the big 'ole truck mirror look. After all, it's a truck... not a car. And with the little back window you need all the mirror you can get!

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:41 PM

The Bed Nov-2008

When I bought the truck it had a 67-72 bed. Rather than replace the entire bed I purchased a couple 58-66 era fenders and steps at a swap meet.

Here is how I went about it:

Use blue painters tape to mask the upper flange on the steps and the fender mounting flange,

Using the 67-72 step bracket, bolt the bracket to the 67-72 bed,

Bolt the 58-66 step to the 67-72 bracket (as I recall one hole works, one needs redrilled),

Transfer the step upper lip flange mounting holes using a pen or a pencil,

Temporarily clamp the step flange to the bed with a c-clamp.

Bolt the fender to the step,

Level the fender with the bed top rail,

Transfer the fender mounting holes from the bed to the fender using a pen or pencil,

Remove the fender and step,

Center punch the step upper lip and fender flange using the transferred hole locations,

Drill the holes in the fender,

Debur all holes and bolt the step and fender back to the bed,

Rinse and repeat,

Step back and enjoy.

The step brackets are slightly different for each "era" of step and the step is different for each "era" fender so you have to match fenders and steps.

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:42 PM

Tail Lights Nov. 2008

In conjunction with installing the new fenders I also updated the tail lights. Never liked the bolt on "hangin' out there" look of the stock tailights on step side trucks. These repro set of '64 Impala taillights were fairly easy to install: fab'd. up some brackets inside the fenders and started cutting.

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:43 PM

Stake Pockets Dec 2008

The rear stake pockets were used and abused. The previous owner had attempted to remove them, started cutting and then quit and acetylene brazed things back together.

I bought a new set from Mar-K. Installation was complicated by the PO's welding and hack job.

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:44 PM

Cherry Bombs and Header Hook Ups Dec. 2008

Exhaust.. When I bought the truck it had headers and Flowmasters'. I am not a fan of Flowmasters’ and since I was a child of the 60's / 70's I have no choice but to put Cherry Bombs on it.

The mufflers are 2-1/2" x 28" O.A.L.. To mate these up to the header collectors I purchased a pair of "S" adapters to bolt to the collectors. I modified these by shortening them up and adjusting the angles so the mufflers would run straight with the frame rails. Full length tailpipes will be run later.

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:47 PM

Rear Mount Gas Tank Jan 2009

Not a big fan of having the gas tank in the cab. Also not a big fan of the aftermarket tanks that mount on the frame and hang so low you can see them from the rear of the truck.

I used a '49-'52 Chevy passenger car gas tank and mounted it in the frame behind the rear axle.

Filler tube is a modified '37 Ford, Locking Filler Cap is a '32-'50 Ford pickup.

Fabrication:
This modification also included removing some of the previous owners “welded on” bumper brackets and overload springs.

Lower frame rail flanges were trimmed using a Sawsall and a grinder to allow the tank to drop out for maintenance.

Drivers’ side frame rail notched to allow filler tube clearance. Reinforced notch with C4x5.4 structural steel channel.

Bobbed the rear of the frame to make room for a rear roll pan. This involved removing / replacing the rear frame cross member with a new one out of C4x5.4 structural steel channel. Bottom flange of the channel was cut off to allow tank to drop out for maintenance. New rear bed mounting brackets were also made coping some of the C4x5.4 channel.

Fabricated upper tank supports out of 1x1x10ga structural rectangular tubing.

Fabricated tank strap support brackets using 2x1x1/8 structural rectangular tubing.

Ran 3/8" galvanized zinc fuel line through passenger side frame rail to fuel pump.

Installed Fram cartridge style fuel filter

Parts List:Gas Tank: Tanks Inc. P/N 51-CG, 1949-52 Chevy Steel, $195.00
Mounting Straps: Tanks Inc. P/N UMS, $12.50

Sending Unit: Brothers P/N ATK59SU, 0-30 Ohm Universal, $26.99

Gas Filler Pipe: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N 78-9034-B, 1937 Car, $35.00

Locking Gas Cap: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N01A-18416-B, 1932-50 Pickup, $35.00

Fuel Filter: Jegs P/N 410-HPG1 (Fram), Canister Style Fuel Filter, $41.99

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:48 PM

Gas Tank Post #2 (Additional Photos)

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:49 PM

Bed Widening March 2009

Time for some major surgery. I want to run 33x12.5x15 rear rubber and some aluminum slots wheels. After doing some measuring I noticed the rear overall width of the bed at the fender lip was narrower than the front fender width.

So I widened the bed 2 inches on each side for a total increase in overall width of 4 inches. I used a trailer fender cut down the center to make min-tubs. Also added a roll pan (that I had to widen) and some cable tailgate supports.

For the tailgate latch I am using (2) rubber hood latches mounted inside the bed. They prevent the tailgate from rattling by applying elastic force. I also added urethane tailgate bushings to keep the rattling to a minimum.

Front Bed Corner Extensions: Fabricated Angle 3-1/2x3-1/2x3/16 steel. Front bed panel attachment holes transfer punch located from bed sides and front panel.

Tailgate Jamb: Angle, 2x2x1/8 & Rectangular Tubing 2x1x11 gauge.

Cable Tailgate Support: Advanced Auto Parts generic replacement cable.

Bed Cross Sills: Purchased (1) new cross sill from Mar-k and cut it into pieces to extend original cross sills. Cut each sill in the center and spliced in a 4 inch long piece of the new sill in the center of each original cross sill.

Rubber Hood Latch: Speedway Motors P/N 970-07315

Urethane Tailgate Trunnion: Mar-K P/N 102381

Roll pan mocked up in this photo. It also needs widened.

Update June 2012: In this photo you can see the rear fender is now just a bit wider than the front:

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:51 PM

Spare Tire May 2009

The step side fender I purchased had the cut-out for a spare tire. The stock spare tire bracket is, IMHO, spindly looking. I fabricated a homemade mount that was simple, incredibly strong and totally hidden with the spare tire in place.

Look at the last two pictures below. Notice how the spare tire sets low on my truck compared to the stock truck in the fourth photo? That's because the fender I have is off a long bed step side. The cut-out is lower on the fender on a long bed. Not nearly as strange looking as the stock, up in the air, mounting arrangement. Only downside is it limits the diameter of the spare that can be used. I ended up using a 640-15.

Stock Style Spare Tire Mount. Note that there is a hole in the spare tire recessed area for the stock spare tire support rod to go thru:

Custom Spare Tire Mount I fabricated:

My Truck has a long bed fender to mount the spare tire lower. Also note there is no hole in the spare tire recessed area:

Stock spare tire location for a short bed fender:

Drawing of fabricated spare tire mount:

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:52 PM

Aluminum Slots & Goodyear Rubber June 2009

I found (2) 6 lug 15 x 8-1/2 Indy Aluminum Slots and (2) 15 x 7 Western Aluminum slots via internet searches. Rear tires are 33x12.5x15; fronts are 235-75-R15.

Classic “Big & Littles”:

The spare is a "Coker" Firestone bias ply that is vintage correct for a '65. The contrast of a stock tire vs. the new rolling stock adds an interesting contrast:

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:53 PM

Hurst Shifter Installation and Hump Repair Nov. 2009[INDENT]Got the '57 Chevy Hurst Shifter installed and fixed the previous owners horrendous gaping hole in the floor. I welded in a 2nd generation Camaro 4-speed trans. hump.

^^^ The Previous Owners Mess ^^^

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:54 PM

Cab Mounts Nov. 2009

Installed new rubber cab mounts. The front passenger side body mount was a bear to replace. The bolt was rusted tight. Used a breaker bar to twist the nut off and then an air impact chisel to beat the rusted bolt up and out of its 44 year old crusty home. The cab mounts were purchased from American Classic Trucks Parts and they fit great. All steel parts and fasteners were anodized. Should be good for another 44 years!

Lakeroadster · 03-03-2011, 04:54 PM

Bucket Seats Nov. 2009

Since my truck is running a Muncie M-20 trans. the floor shifter doesn't work well with a bench seat.
Seats are by Scat and are their Pro Car Lowback Series, got them from Summit Racing. They are very good quality, came with the seat adjustment mechanisms, they recline and they have a storage compartment on the back.

I fabricated the seat brackets from 11 gauge 1-1/2 square and 1-1/2 x 1 rectangular tubing. Seats are mounted high enough that with the window rolled down you can rest your arm comfortably on the window. Might seem silly but little stuff like that drives me crazy.

Next step is to install retractable lap belts.

03-03-2011, 04:37 PM	#1
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step As is customary a build thread starts at the purchase of the truck and continues through till the end of the build. But here a couple current status photos of the old shop truck, just so you know where this is all headed: THE BUILD THREAD STARTS HERE Purchased in Aug. 2008. The good list: 350 4 bolt small block Chevy, '70 vintage M-21 4-speed, '65 vintage Short Bed Some rust, but better than average The bad list: Wrong bed (67-72) Shifter hangs in second gear Flame wrench drop job Leaks oil big time Turquoise truck rallies Here is the description of the truck off the Craigslist add dated 08-13-2008 1965 chevy short box step side, this truck is 43 years old and has its problems but they are small things and one good days work without spending any money would fix 98% of it. The chassis and body are solid and it’s a kick in the pants to drive. I hate to see it go but it’s not practical for what I need in a shop truck. It’s powered by a rip’n 350 four bolt with a Muncie side loader four speed, three inch Flowmaster exhaust, 12 bolt rear end and brand new tires with less than 1000 miles. As for cosmetics the only thing I have done is reupholster the 90 Chevy bench seat, the body has the common rust in the bottom of the fenders and a couple bubbles in the bed but not bad overall. Like I said it’s very solid. Great platform for a muscle truck, hot rod or rat rod and very dependable, I have let it set for months at a time and it always fires up on the first crank __________________ Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive. My 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread Some Technical Threads I have Posted: Frame Mounted Gas Tank Rear Frame Notch Upper Shock Relocation Track Bars, The Long & The Short Of It A smart man* learns from his own mistakes, a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.* Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-08-2012 at 08:19 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:40 PM	#3
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Custom Cab Trim Aug. 2008 West Coast Mirrors Oct. 2008 More EBay scores. The mirrors were a bit knarly when they arrived but being made from stainless I was able to polish 'em up. I like the big 'ole truck mirror look. After all, it's a truck... not a car. And with the little back window you need all the mirror you can get! Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-06-2012 at 06:17 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:41 PM	#4
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	The Bed Nov-2008 When I bought the truck it had a 67-72 bed. Rather than replace the entire bed I purchased a couple 58-66 era fenders and steps at a swap meet. Here is how I went about it: Use blue painters tape to mask the upper flange on the steps and the fender mounting flange, Using the 67-72 step bracket, bolt the bracket to the 67-72 bed, Bolt the 58-66 step to the 67-72 bracket (as I recall one hole works, one needs redrilled), Transfer the step upper lip flange mounting holes using a pen or a pencil, Temporarily clamp the step flange to the bed with a c-clamp. Bolt the fender to the step, Level the fender with the bed top rail, Transfer the fender mounting holes from the bed to the fender using a pen or pencil, Remove the fender and step, Center punch the step upper lip and fender flange using the transferred hole locations, Drill the holes in the fender, Debur all holes and bolt the step and fender back to the bed, Rinse and repeat, Step back and enjoy. The step brackets are slightly different for each "era" of step and the step is different for each "era" fender so you have to match fenders and steps. Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-06-2012 at 06:20 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:42 PM	#5
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Tail Lights Nov. 2008 In conjunction with installing the new fenders I also updated the tail lights. Never liked the bolt on "hangin' out there" look of the stock tailights on step side trucks. These repro set of '64 Impala taillights were fairly easy to install: fab'd. up some brackets inside the fenders and started cutting. Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-06-2012 at 06:24 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:43 PM	#6
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Stake Pockets Dec 2008 The rear stake pockets were used and abused. The previous owner had attempted to remove them, started cutting and then quit and acetylene brazed things back together. I bought a new set from Mar-K. Installation was complicated by the PO's welding and hack job. Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-06-2012 at 06:41 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:39 PM	#2
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Camaro Hood Louvers Aug. 2008 Another Ebay purchase: 68-69 Camaro SS Hood Louvers. I wanted to break up the expanse of the hood and these classic Chevy trim pieces are old school cool. Easy install since the underhood cross bracing on these trucks is minimal. Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-05-2012 at 05:10 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:44 PM	#7
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Cherry Bombs and Header Hook Ups Dec. 2008 Exhaust.. When I bought the truck it had headers and Flowmasters'. I am not a fan of Flowmasters’ and since I was a child of the 60's / 70's I have no choice but to put Cherry Bombs on it. The mufflers are 2-1/2" x 28" O.A.L.. To mate these up to the header collectors I purchased a pair of "S" adapters to bolt to the collectors. I modified these by shortening them up and adjusting the angles so the mufflers would run straight with the frame rails. Full length tailpipes will be run later. Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-06-2012 at 06:48 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:47 PM	#8
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Rear Mount Gas Tank Jan 2009 Not a big fan of having the gas tank in the cab. Also not a big fan of the aftermarket tanks that mount on the frame and hang so low you can see them from the rear of the truck. I used a '49-'52 Chevy passenger car gas tank and mounted it in the frame behind the rear axle. Filler tube is a modified '37 Ford, Locking Filler Cap is a '32-'50 Ford pickup. Fabrication: This modification also included removing some of the previous owners “welded on” bumper brackets and overload springs. Lower frame rail flanges were trimmed using a Sawsall and a grinder to allow the tank to drop out for maintenance. Drivers’ side frame rail notched to allow filler tube clearance. Reinforced notch with C4x5.4 structural steel channel. Bobbed the rear of the frame to make room for a rear roll pan. This involved removing / replacing the rear frame cross member with a new one out of C4x5.4 structural steel channel. Bottom flange of the channel was cut off to allow tank to drop out for maintenance. New rear bed mounting brackets were also made coping some of the C4x5.4 channel. Fabricated upper tank supports out of 1x1x10ga structural rectangular tubing. Fabricated tank strap support brackets using 2x1x1/8 structural rectangular tubing. Ran 3/8" galvanized zinc fuel line through passenger side frame rail to fuel pump. Installed Fram cartridge style fuel filter Parts List:Gas Tank: Tanks Inc. P/N 51-CG, 1949-52 Chevy Steel, $195.00 Mounting Straps: Tanks Inc. P/N UMS, $12.50 Sending Unit: Brothers P/N ATK59SU, 0-30 Ohm Universal, $26.99 Gas Filler Pipe: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N 78-9034-B, 1937 Car, $35.00 Locking Gas Cap: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N01A-18416-B, 1932-50 Pickup, $35.00 Fuel Filter: Jegs P/N 410-HPG1 (Fram), Canister Style Fuel Filter, $41.99 Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-16-2012 at 09:56 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:48 PM	#9
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Gas Tank Post #2 (Additional Photos) __________________ Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive. My 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread Some Technical Threads I have Posted: Frame Mounted Gas Tank Rear Frame Notch Upper Shock Relocation Track Bars, The Long & The Short Of It A smart man* learns from his own mistakes, a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.* Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-06-2012 at 07:01 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:49 PM	#10
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Bed Widening March 2009 Time for some major surgery. I want to run 33x12.5x15 rear rubber and some aluminum slots wheels. After doing some measuring I noticed the rear overall width of the bed at the fender lip was narrower than the front fender width. So I widened the bed 2 inches on each side for a total increase in overall width of 4 inches. I used a trailer fender cut down the center to make min-tubs. Also added a roll pan (that I had to widen) and some cable tailgate supports. For the tailgate latch I am using (2) rubber hood latches mounted inside the bed. They prevent the tailgate from rattling by applying elastic force. I also added urethane tailgate bushings to keep the rattling to a minimum. Front Bed Corner Extensions: Fabricated Angle 3-1/2x3-1/2x3/16 steel. Front bed panel attachment holes transfer punch located from bed sides and front panel. Tailgate Jamb: Angle, 2x2x1/8 & Rectangular Tubing 2x1x11 gauge. Cable Tailgate Support: Advanced Auto Parts generic replacement cable. Bed Cross Sills: Purchased (1) new cross sill from Mar-k and cut it into pieces to extend original cross sills. Cut each sill in the center and spliced in a 4 inch long piece of the new sill in the center of each original cross sill. Rubber Hood Latch: Speedway Motors P/N 970-07315 Urethane Tailgate Trunnion: Mar-K P/N 102381 Roll pan mocked up in this photo. It also needs widened. Update June 2012: In this photo you can see the rear fender is now just a bit wider than the front: Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-31-2012 at 02:50 PM.

03-03-2011, 04:51 PM	#11
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Spare Tire May 2009 The step side fender I purchased had the cut-out for a spare tire. The stock spare tire bracket is, IMHO, spindly looking. I fabricated a homemade mount that was simple, incredibly strong and totally hidden with the spare tire in place. Look at the last two pictures below. Notice how the spare tire sets low on my truck compared to the stock truck in the fourth photo? That's because the fender I have is off a long bed step side. The cut-out is lower on the fender on a long bed. Not nearly as strange looking as the stock, up in the air, mounting arrangement. Only downside is it limits the diameter of the spare that can be used. I ended up using a 640-15. Stock Style Spare Tire Mount. Note that there is a hole in the spare tire recessed area for the stock spare tire support rod to go thru: Custom Spare Tire Mount I fabricated: My Truck has a long bed fender to mount the spare tire lower. Also note there is no hole in the spare tire recessed area: Stock spare tire location for a short bed fender: Drawing of fabricated spare tire mount: Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-24-2012 at 09:01 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:52 PM	#12
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Aluminum Slots & Goodyear Rubber June 2009 I found (2) 6 lug 15 x 8-1/2 Indy Aluminum Slots and (2) 15 x 7 Western Aluminum slots via internet searches. Rear tires are 33x12.5x15; fronts are 235-75-R15. Classic “Big & Littles”: The spare is a "Coker" Firestone bias ply that is vintage correct for a '65. The contrast of a stock tire vs. the new rolling stock adds an interesting contrast: Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-31-2012 at 03:14 PM.

03-03-2011, 04:53 PM	#13
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Hurst Shifter Installation and Hump Repair Nov. 2009[INDENT]Got the '57 Chevy Hurst Shifter installed and fixed the previous owners horrendous gaping hole in the floor. I welded in a 2nd generation Camaro 4-speed trans. hump. ^^^ The Previous Owners Mess ^^^ Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-16-2012 at 06:30 PM.

03-03-2011, 04:54 PM	#14
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Cab Mounts Nov. 2009 Installed new rubber cab mounts. The front passenger side body mount was a bear to replace. The bolt was rusted tight. Used a breaker bar to twist the nut off and then an air impact chisel to beat the rusted bolt up and out of its 44 year old crusty home. The cab mounts were purchased from American Classic Trucks Parts and they fit great. All steel parts and fasteners were anodized. Should be good for another 44 years! Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-09-2012 at 09:12 AM.

03-03-2011, 04:54 PM	#15
Lakeroadster Registered User Join Date: Jan. 23, 2011 Location: High Plains of Colorado Posts: 443	Bucket Seats Nov. 2009 Since my truck is running a Muncie M-20 trans. the floor shifter doesn't work well with a bench seat. Seats are by Scat and are their Pro Car Lowback Series, got them from Summit Racing. They are very good quality, came with the seat adjustment mechanisms, they recline and they have a storage compartment on the back. I fabricated the seat brackets from 11 gauge 1-1/2 square and 1-1/2 x 1 rectangular tubing. Seats are mounted high enough that with the window rolled down you can rest your arm comfortably on the window. Might seem silly but little stuff like that drives me crazy. Next step is to install retractable lap belts. Last edited by Lakeroadster; 12-09-2012 at 09:19 AM.

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