6 volt Jump Start

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by 51 HHR, May 29, 2008.

  1. 51 HHR

    51 HHR Member

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    Is there a safe way to jump start a 6 volt vehicle using a 12 volt vehicle ?
    My 51 gave me a bit a of ahrd time starting the other day and I was afraid I was going ot kill the battery turning it over ,and then I got scared I would not be able to jump start if I did.
    Bill
     
  2. rick boyd

    rick boyd Member

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    Danger Warning Will Robinson!!!

    I don't think it's safe to do, I saw one blow up once.
    Do it fast don't leave the clamps on except while cranking.
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    How To 6 > 12 Volt Jump Start

    WARNING ! jump starting a 6 volt vehicle with a 12 volt power source can cause the 6 volt battery to explode , sending SULFURIC ACID into your eyes :eek:

    However :

    I have been easily jump starting 6 volt rigs for years and never had any problems .

    Step 1 : turn off ALL lights , radio and heater on the 6 volt vehicle .

    Connect the posative clamp of the jumper cable to the posative terminal of the 6 volt battery and clamp the negative clamp around the jumper cable so it cannot touch anything metal , now go connect the far end of the jumper cables to the 12 volt power source .

    Climb in the cab and set the choke and throttle , turn on the ignition key and step on the starter (if you have a key or push button sterter , hold it in the ' start ' postion with your left hand) , keeping the starter engauged , reach over and unclamp the negative jumper cable and -touch- it to the negative battery post , your truck's engine will now begin cranking at about 700 RPM's , as soon as the engine fires , lift the jumper cable off the battery post , before you release the starter ! .

    This way , all the 12 volt current and amperes is getting shunted through the 6 volt starter so the battery won't boil and you won't blow any bulbs out .

    Be careful ! be smart ! wear saftey glasses ! .

    Battery acid in your face hurts , a LOT , I know .

    If this sounds complicated , it is , if it's too much , don't do it , go to NAPA and buy a brandy new Group 1 battery , they have good ones cheap .

    Remember : unless both battery cables are as fat as your thumb , they're the WRONG ONES and will never satisfactorily start your 6 volt vehicle . the ground cable _MUST_ be connected to the tranny or engine block , NOT THE FRAME ! .

    Add on battery clamps are CRAP , you must replace the cables ! .

    You'll have to order up new 0 gauge cables as no one stocks them anymore , ignore the retard beind the parts counter who'll insist his in stock 4 or 6 gauge cables are are O.K. ~ if he really knew , he wouldn't be a partsman , he'd be a mechanic .

    If your truck cranks too slowly , replace both battery cable first , then take the starter apart on a big old towel and carefully clean all the old grease out of it and re - lube with high temp. disc brake grease & re assemble ~ 95 % of the time , this returns that old nasty starter to as new service ~ you can replace the burshes too , even if they're soldered in place .
     
  4. Kens 50 PU

    Kens 50 PU Member

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    What about the gas gauge? Wouldn't it be toasted?

    I'd buy a 6v/12v battery charger to charge it up if you run it down.
     
  5. coilover

    coilover Member

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    Another way to absolutely protect all the 6v stuff is to take the starter cable and the main feed wire off the starter, it is on the same terminal as the starter cable. Tie the starter (battery) cable and the main feed together, this gives the same 6v to the system as before. Now hook the 12v positive to the starter and the 12v negative to the engine. The starter and the rest of the truck are on separate systems now and can run like this indefinitely, the 6v charging system will still be functioning and all accessories/lights may be used. It is still far better to clean and lube as Nate suggested but I have brought in numerous old trucks using the dual system which really spins them over and starts ones that are a bit balky.
     
  6. Steve Katzman

    Steve Katzman Member

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    I say

    give it a push and pop the clutch:D But I really always wanted to ask this question. Has anyone ever tried to hand crank a 216. I've found a few places that sell cranks and have been tempted to buy one.
     
  7. Thunder54

    Thunder54 Member

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    busted finger

    I like Evan's technique. I used to jump my old 6 volt 54 all the time when I was in high school from any help I could find. 12 volts just spun it fast. Lucky I grew up I guess.

    I busted a finger pretty good starting a tiny wire flown gas engine model airplane once. Kinda fear what that 216 might have in store if it decided to kick back on a hand crank.

    They do sell cranks and make slots for them....

    Let us know how it works Steve. Better yet, call me, i'll come take your picture while you crank that rascal.

    Jim:eek:
     

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  8. rix 48

    rix 48 Member

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    Hand Crank

    I've wondered this same point. Looking at my 216, the slip is in the opposite direction of crank. Don't see how it could kick back? :eek:

    Rick
     
  9. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    I bought one of those handles to manually turn over the 216 for service, as far as cranking....don't see it hapnin, cap'n.
     
  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Hand Cranking The Engine

    This is always a tough deal , an InLine 6 cylinder engine is going to be hard to hand crank .

    Place the crank in and position it so the handle is @ 6:30 and position your hand so all your fingers and your thumb are on the same side of the handle , pull UP sharply , do not attempt to turn the handle in a circle , that's when it will bite you ~ if it kicks back , it can break your fingers or seriously tear the ligaments in your hand as it forces your thumb over backwards ~ no matter what you think , you cannot move out of the way fast enough .

    Often it'll spin around backwards and break your wrist...

    The one way slip thing where the crank fits into the engine , is so the engine doesn't spin the crank when it starts .

    I used to do this at shows on four cylinder engines , tried it once on my old 1946 pickup but couldn't spin it fast enough to start it .
     
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    That is why you don't make the 12 volt connection until the starter is cranking....

    -Nate

     
  12. 51 HHR

    51 HHR Member

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    Thanks to all who replied I have made up my mind to convert to 12 volt
    eventually
    I have a 6 volt charger at home just in case but it does me little good when I am out to the bank or elsewhere and i kill the battery for some silly reason.
    That was my concern when iI could not get the truck started I thought it was warm enough to start without the choke but after cranking fora 10 seconds and it not starting i thought hmm maybe its flodded now?
    Not knowing what state the fuel air mix was i just let it set and walked around the shopping center fora bit mumbleing about how i was gonna get home without the wife laughing at me.
    It was cranking fast enough but it did slow down with each try after a bit ofa rest Id try again it finnaly started after pumping the pedal twice while cranking.
    Oh and so you all know i had a 76 Nova i had to park on hills all the time so i could pop the clutch out and get it started sometiems it had a tempormental neutral switch and would sometimes start with the key and other times would lock it out
    Bill
     
  13. Steve Katzman

    Steve Katzman Member

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    Good thread

    Also a good thread for me. Saved me 60 bucks.:) I'll take Nates advise and save my fingers and wrists by not trying the hand crank. One bad thing about living in Houston. There's no hills to park the truck just in case the battery goes.:eek:
     
  14. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Brain fart~

    This hit me the other day~ 12 volt conversion it is. If my wife, and some day my daughter drive this truck, I can fully expect the battery to wind down quick. I don't think they'd (or I would) remember these steps.
    Safety First!
     
  15. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Bill

    If it cranks fast enough when hot but doesn't want to start , check the valve gaps whilst the engine is blistering hot as I suspect some are too close .

    Also do a spark check as sometimes the condesor heat soaks and the spark goes away...

    When the engine is hot , you should'nt need to touch the throttle , simply turn on the key and press the starter button , when you hear the engine begin to fire , give the foot feed a little bit but do not pump it ! .

    If you leave the 6 volt starter in place when you convert to 12 volts , it'll crank really fast and always start easily when SWMBO is driving it unless she , like my ex , insists on pumping the foot feed whilst cranking the engine ~ this never , _ever_ helps and usually causes hard starting .
     

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