ignition ballast resistors

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by skiter1961, Nov 3, 2010.

  1. skiter1961

    skiter1961 Member

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    when converting from 6 volt system to 12 volt system why is the ingition ballast resistor required. ( or is it not) on chevy truck 1950 thanks for the help
     
  2. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    all I can tell you is this; when I went from 6 to 12 volt the people at the parts house I used gave me a coil without the internal resistor and I got about 6 miles out of the truck before it back fired so bad it would not run but blow a 9 inch rip open in my muffler. The is the reason I have the petronic system and the flame thrower coil that pairs up with it. Vehicle electrical I understand Not. But My truck runs, and that is all that matters.
    So if you have a muffler then that is the reason the resistor is required so you keep them on the truck. :confused::D Hope this helped, it caused a frown for me remembering the cost to replace the damn muffler because some learning parts person forgot to give me a coil with an a internal resistor.
     
  3. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    NAPA IC64 coil has the internal resistor. Pertronics is THE way to go. If you go pertronics, get one of their flame thrower coils also.
     
  4. bigtimjamestown

    bigtimjamestown Member

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    You need a ballast resistor because points can only handle 9 volts that's why the resistor drops the voltage from 12 to 9 volts. Any more voltage than that will burn up a set of points. An internally ballast coil will eliminate the need for a ballast resister. Also if you use a MSD box you will not need a ballast because the points only trigger the box and the box does the rest....Big Tim :cool:
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    To Further Define this :

    A ballast resisted ignition coil should _only_ be used in conjunction with a by - pass circuit so as to improve cold weather starting , 99-44/100 % of the time , this means solenoid operated starters only .

    Accell also makes good , high output ignition coils .

    they're FUGLY yellow though .
     
  6. bigtimjamestown

    bigtimjamestown Member

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    Good point Nate and for those of you that aren't quite sure what Nate is talking about when you use a ballast resister you should run a wire from the unused terminal on the starter solenoid ( I think it has an "R" on it) to the coil side of the ballast. What this will do is give your points a full 12 volts when starting only and make it easier to start....Big Tim :cool:
     
  7. skiter1961

    skiter1961 Member

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    Thanks for all your help on this matter guys
     
  8. bennythebull

    bennythebull Member

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    coil ballast

    need help have a 1960 c-10 it has a resistor or something connected to the coil bracket. can i get a coil with a built in one or where to get anoyher
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Coil

    If it's a little cylindrical shaped thing , that's a condensor for the radio , you can ignore it as long as there's a condensor under the dist. cap .

    Your 1960 C/10 should have a " Calibrated Resistance Wire " feeding the coil , this means that when the points are open and you turn on the key & check the voltage to the coil , it reads 7 ~ 9 volts DC .

    If so , test the coil's Ohms across the two little connectors , it should be about 1.6 ohms , any cheapo Multi-Meter (like the $4 one @ Harbor Freight) can be used to check , I'd highly suggest testing both as in 50 years much can be changed and this is a common problem , mis matched coils & power voltage , wiring harness repairs or modifications often result in 12 VDC to the coil and if it has the original typ of coil , it'll burn up points really fast .

    If , OTOH , you have a ceramic rectangular shaped thing on the coil , that's a ballast resistor and you'll need the 1.6 Ohm coil .

    The Ballast resistor is a standard NON GM part , Chryslers , Dodges etc. used them so your FLAPS will have one .

    TEST before changing parts ! .

    I hope all this is helpful & not too confuddling .
     
  10. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    Nate: I think you'd read 12V when the points are OPEN and 7 ~ 9 volts when the points are CLOSED.
     
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Ballasted Ignition

    No ~ that's not how it works .

    When you have 12 VDC to the coil , you need a 3 Ohm coil .

    When you have 7 +/- VDC to the coil , you use a 1.6 Ohm coil .

    Very important difference I learned the hard way .
     
  12. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    I agree, but 7 volts when the points are CLOSED, not when OPEN as you originally said. If the points are open the + terminal on the coil will read 12 volts no matter direct connection, ballast resistor or "calibrated resistance wire".
     
  13. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    I may have just learned yet another new thing.....
     
  14. rira

    rira Member

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    wiring with a pedal start

    hi,
    so i converted my truck to a 12v, but how should i wire the balast resistor?
    the first part is easy, just from the ign. switch via the resistor to the + on the coil, but since there is no solenoid, there is no ~12v lead when starting only..

    any ideas?


    rob
     
  15. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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  16. Root2812

    Root2812 Member

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  17. Root2812

    Root2812 Member

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    I swear everytime I post a thread dies. You must all hate me or something. :p
     
  18. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Yes, that is the classic ballast resistor. I prefer an internally resisted coil (NAPA IC64) and do away with the ballast resistor, they have a nack for intermittently failing and looking like many other problems.
     
  19. Root2812

    Root2812 Member

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    Thanks Chebby.
     
  20. Blueflame236

    Blueflame236 Member

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    Classic ballast resistor

    You are so right about the failing. I pulled mine out the first day i had the truck.It caused overheating el. failure and to much resisant .

    Martinius.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013

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