Looking for solutions for better access to the master cylinder through the cab floor. Thinking of creating a flat door with weather seals. Haasman
Have wondered that too... Haasman, over the last week i have thought about that too. I'm not sure that I want to cut the new floorpan, although it may be easier... I have heard of some guys that get under and pop the lid off, then use a funnel with a hose on the end to fill. Guess it just depends on what one's technical/fabrication capabilities are... On a slightly different note... Do you have more pictures of the brake lines you installed? Want to make sure I am routing them in the correct place when I do them this weekend. Thanks in advance!
You didn't specify which lines so here a couple of pics of brake lines a while back. All work in progress. BTW, now the cab is on the chassis. Some turned out great, others could be bent a bit better. Seems good so far. Only a couple of leaks that were quickly tightened -This all continues to be a learning experience for me. Often right when I think I will be able to start on the "candy" (dash gauges, glove box, lights etc, the pretty things) I am thrown another curve. Today, why would the pedals not align- centered in their holes in the floor, left to right? Worked it out with washers between the pedals. The washers are called "industrial washers" that fit on the pedal shaft.
master cyl access You know the neat thing about all of us....yes, all of you! ...Is that we all come up with all kinds of ways to accomplish things...some really good and some well, "let's try that again." What I did with this challenge was.....well, nothing!...I did nothing on the access hole....but, I made a little cheat syringe and hose thingy to fill the bowls up whenever they need it. I had figured that if, I was having to check and fill it way too often...there were much bigger problems. Getting fluid in the bowls is easy that way. Rod
Nice! Have to rework the latch but other than that, wonderful. ... or one could use the lock setup to keep zombies out. BTW, how did you end up making it latch? It looks like the optional latch would rise above the floor level.
I got the non latch option. At fast speeds the neg pressure in the cab will cause it to open and flap around on its own. Its kinda funny. What i did was drill one small hole in the corner of the lid opposite of the hinge side and put a small set screw in. The set screw will go into the bottom lip that the door rests on.
Here is a link to one of my threads on another site. I gives an overview of the truck. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=640272
Hassman's Project Wow ! that looks so very nice indeed . I wish you'd take a crack at my old Shop Truck , it needn't be fancy , just de rusted and repainted then re assembled again . I can handle the mechanicals , just not the body & paint works .
Exactly~ Short of just installing a remote fill on the firewall, this is how I see it working for me, too.
Boat access port I work and play a bunch with small boats of many kinds. I wonder how a marine deck access port would work for an enlarged master cylinder access lid? These are usually high quality plastic of some sort, easily screw in and out of a access hole and are generally designed to function in a deck surface where hands walk with some frequency. Lots of sizes from as probably as small as 4" in diameter. Marine app water tight. One issue is that the flange mounts are usually close to 1/4" above the actual surface. Your floor insulation could be cut around it to make up for the thickness. Just a thought. Jim
LaTroca52- Looked around their site, didn't find one. If you happened to find it please post the link or their part #. Haasman
I always wondered about a remote filler like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/REMOTE-FILL...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d9fa0cc7&vxp=mtr