So Zig.... What did you end up doing with the old drums when you were done? Did you just toss them? I have held on to everything thus far on this truck but is there really any good reason to keep the old drums? I didn't make too much progress today unfortunately. The only thing I had on hand was self etching primer. I will need to get to the store tomorrow and pick up some semi-gloss black to finish the job and finally get to putting everything on. Did you have any thoughts about blasting and powder coating the mounting brackets for the disc brake kit?
Hey, it's taken me 2 years and I'm still not done, so what's another day or two? I gave the drums to a neighbor who was needing to turn in some scrap metal and needed any extra $$ he could get. I also gave him the old 3/4 ton rear axle. As far as blasting/powder coating? I didn't do anything to mine. Is this a good idea? It didn't say anything about doing this in the instructions, so I didn't worry about it.
Media Blasting Nothing that has bearings in it or that touches the inside of the engine ( the road draft tube for example) should ever be bead blasted because it's impossible to get all the abrasive out of the pinch welds , nooks & crannies . Old brake drums are often in better shape and higher quality than new ones . Pre 1951 " Huck " (rhymes with 'suck') brake drums are hard to find and IMO should always be saved .
Nate....so what do you think I should do now..... I always find these things out too little too late . So now that I have already bead blasted these and they have the roller bearings already pressed in what do you think I should do? Is there any good way that they could be washed prior to install to keep any potential small bead particles out? I mean in the end the worse they do is destroy the roller bearings that are pressed in there now and I have to get new bearings anyways. Is that right or is there something else I am missing? Is is much different than getting small particles of dirt in there that don't get cleaned out? I am not trying to argue with you. I can understand now that it would have been best not to bead blast. But now that I am at this point other than being able to buy brand new ones it would seem the best course would be the wash thoroughly, paint, install, and hope for the best.
Media Blasting Residue Trying to reply.... O.K. , maybe now this will go through : Get a new roll of white paper towels , several cans of starting fluid and some acid brushes , clean everything using the starting fluid until you can wipe any where and not get the gray colored crud on the new towels , you'll prolly be fine . It's a simple thing to knock the bearing races out with a 2' long drift and a heavy hammer... Remember : when you re pack those bearings , push the new grease in from the ends of the rollers , else it's no good . Consider using synthetic or at least Moly based grease . Cheap bearing packers are at your F.L.P.S.
Nate - So this is where I am at.... I was able to take the bearings out before blasting. So just the races remain. I did stuff a rag in the middle of the thing and them used duct tape to seal off and protect the inside of the wheel and the bearing races. I started knocking on the races a bit before I started this whole process and it seemed I would damage them if I hit on them any harder. I was just using a large punch because I searched everywhere looking for a tool made to pull out the races and it seems not to exist. I can go at them again and see what happens. What does F.L.P.S. mean?
Fat Fingers Again ! I Meant : F.L.A.P.S. : Friendly Local Auto Parts Store . You use a big long flat nosed punch / drift , of you put your finger behind the race , there's usually two cutouts 180? apart to position it in , bang a bit on one side then the other , a few solid whacks and they drop right out . No worries , just clean 'em up HOSPITAL CLEAN and give it a try .
Yeah, You'll be fine, Steve. So you are using ball and not roller bearings too? Good luck with your project. I'm sure you are dying to get after it.
Nate - you were right A few good whacks and they did come right out. So now that those are out and I will be getting them "hospital clean" would there be any downside to powder coating the exterior of them? It would seen that would be a good application for powder coating. Zig - I am using the roller bearings and not the original regular bearings.
Could you share the bearing number or original intended application for those tapered rollers? Thanks!
Hey Rides.... Hopefully this answers your question. The bearing part number through classic parts is: 73-061K. Here is the link: http://www.classicparts.com/1941-57-Roller-Bearing-Upgrade-Kit-1_2-Ton/productinfo/73-061K/ You can also buy these through other vendors as well. I am using these as they are intended and that is for the front wheels when you do a disc conversion. You can also use them though without doing the disc conversion.
Just realize that the adjustment procedure for the roller bearings is much different than the stock ball bearings. Ask me how I know.
Bill - I actually need to know 2 things First I need to know what the adjustment procedure is. I actually had no idea there was an adjustment procedure for bearings. Second I need to know how you found out the procedure for the roller bearings is different that the normal stock bearings.
I'm away from my books for another week and a half, so this is from memory and should be validated before use. Using stock ball bearings, your tighten the nut to 45-60 ft/lb, then back off the nut one 'flat' plus the distance necessary to get the cotter pin to drop through the hole. The net of this is that the ball bearings has a 'pre load' on them. The roller bearings are not adjusted tight at all. If you had a micrometer you could actually measure a few thousandths of an inch of 'in and out' motion of the hub on properly adjusted roller bearings. I don't remember what car or truck manual I used for instructions, but it was some 1960's GM manual I found on line for a vehicle that used roller bearings. I adjusted my roller bearings using the ball bearing procedure (much too tight for the roller bearings) and was rewarded with worn out roller bearings in less than 1000 miles of use.
Roller bearing + seal set on eBay right now for $50 + $6 shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-1951-1952-CHEVY-GMC-1-2-TON-TRUCK-REPLACEMENT-FRONT-TAPERED-WHEEL-BEARINGS-/181689366453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a4d87b7b5&vxp=mtr
Wheel Bearing Fun You never , EVER leave wheel bearings pre loaded ! . That's done just to ensure everything is properly seated . The ideal free play is .002" but most mechanics spin the hub whilst snugging up the nut , stopping when it goes to zero then backing off *just* enough to install the cotter pin ~ this is why there's two cotter pin holes drilled into the nose of the spindle , to allow close tolerance with zero pre load . I am surprised no one has posted up a link to proper greasing of roller bearings as it's vitally important . Remember : the snuggest fitting cotter pin you can fit and ALWAYS use a new one ! . Wheel coming off when you're driving is *very* exciting but not much fun .
Nate - what is the proper way to grease the bearings? Since I have literally never greased bearings before, it would be good to know from start to finish the right way. I don't do well when I guess....
I assume that Nate meant to put the word "ROLLER" between "leave" and "wheel" in the sentence above. If Nate is talking about the "heel of your hand method" of packing roller wheel bearings I am well qualified.
Guess what? They blended in with the dirt that is my garage floor. (No concrete yet~ I gotta get my truck out before that happens...) I still have the 1/2 ton brakes I took off the axle. Everything. Anyone want them?
