It's hell to get old, but it beats the alternative! This week has been a living hell for me. Over a week without sunshine. Never got above 43 degrees. Every joint and bone in my body hurts. Best of luck on your surgery Bilbo!
You're welcome back any time, Bill. I'd rather find the problem now, instead of just when I'm trying to reinstall the rear assembly. That would be a real setback. As is, I expect to get back the rear end by about Wednesday, so it shouldn't impede progress much. BTW, I went by the shop to talk to the owner, and he told me, "I run a straight up business here. We'll make it right and get it back to you ASAP" "We'll be responsible for the repairs."
So sorry to hear about that, Bill. That absolutely stinks. You get/go through something like that for relief, and it doesn't happen... Here's to you making it to the 2nd as comfortably as possible, and then for the doctors getting it right this next time!
Give me a yell when you want to pick up the rear axle. And remember to get the sunglasses you left in my truck last week. Question for others on the forum: What lubricates the bushing at the front end of the torque tube?
I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but if you're playing "stump the experts" I'll hold my opinion for a while (And you know how hard that is for me!) Bill, I'll check with the shop Tuesday morning, and if we can, maybe pick up the rear-end on Wednesday?
" Oakie Bushing " Lubrication Answer : EP Gear oil that slowly works it way through the rear tranny shaft's ball bearing . This is why there's a seal behind it , you know : the one that fails and allows the gear oil from the tranny to slowly over fill your rear end so you have to drain it out and put it back in the tranny every two or three weeks ? that one . The next obvious question is : why then , did GM put a ZERK FITTING on the top of the U-Joint ball ?! . Because , when the truck was new , everything with Torque Tubes long ago were assembled in a fast paced factory , they had oil guns that clamped onto the Zerk and filled the coupling easily and rapidly , rather that side filling the tranny and waiting 30 minutes for the oil to drain back so you could top it off.... This is why it's so important to not only save that old nasty looking Leather O-Ring around the ball but it's also important to properly shim the ball when it's empty so it can be *just* moved by hand but *won't* fall/dangle if it's own weight . Back on point : TAKE IT EASY ! follow the Dr's orders and P.T. to the letter else you'll suffer the rest of your life . The truck and us , we'll be here when you're up and about again , I cannot stress this enough . It's nice to hear the Shop Foreman say he'll stand behind it , I was thinking of a simple Farm Fix but would much rather hear what the true cause and repairs is later .
' Stump The Experts ' FWIW ; I'm certainly NO EXPERT , I'm just a Journeyman Field Mechanic . I learn more here from you alls than I ever give back so feel free to correct my thoughts . Unless of course , you want to say a foolish thing like " driving a Brand 'F' is O.K. " . Then, please keep yer trap shut .
My GMC Maintenance Manual didn't have a picture, put one of the guys over on OldGMCtrucks.com posted this drawing from the Chevy parts book that shows the answer to my question. I didn't know about the seal item number 5.469
OK Guys... I went to the truck shop that's been farmed out to do my driveline work. Talked to the AHJ, (Authority Having Jurisdiction). Plan is that he had a special tool made to clean up the inside diameter of the Okie bushing and make a fit for the drive yoke from the tranny... That worked, but the Okie bushing has been driven too far downhole to engage the yoke properly. Plan is to get an 'Original' type of bushing now, drive the new Okie bushing farther down the torque tube, and install the new front bushing in line with the Okie bushing/seal assembly. This will allow the 'propeller shaft' seal and bushing to ride on a new place on the shaft, and the transmission yoke to have a viable bushing to ride in. Last word, on Saturday, was that the 'Original' bushing ordered came in, and was the rear tranny bushing, not the one for the torque tube. David Yakley is working on getting the correct part, so I currently hold little hope of getting Clarabelle back together before my surgery date, thus putting this part of the project on hold for at least a couple of months... If anyone here has, or knows where to get one of the elusive original bushings, let me know please. It won't relieve the time crunch, but I may have peace of mind knowing the problem has at least been worked to the best of our ability
Oakie Bushings Wait ~ doesn't the Host here still sell Oakie Bushings ? . It's been about two Decades since I did one , lemme tell you it was a beyotch ~ some of the original ones are pinned in place . This one (1954 Post Two Door Sedan) wasn't but it flat refused to come out so I battered the damn thing in further then couldn't get the new bushing in *quite* all the way ~ it stuck out of the Torque Tube about 1/4" so I was sweating bullets a moment there ~ I measured every thing and there was plenty of extra space between the back of the yoke and the face of the new bushing but I was worried I'd have to disassemble the whole Torque Tube to get the old bushing out . I froze the new bushing to shrink it and lightly heated the Torque Tube to expand it , used some really old and well dried hard wood and a 7 # single jack to knock the new bushing in , whew ~ that was a job , good thing I wasn't as old & broken up as I am now .
Yeah Nate, I got mine here at Classic Parts. Issue is, they installed the one I bought, and buggered up the end they were driving against. Now, to keep from having to completely disassemble the rearend they just rebuilt to remove it, they plan to drive it in far enough to piggyback a new bushing in front. Searching for the front bushing, as original, instead of the bushing "assembly" which includes front and rear bushings with integral rear seal.
Updates: Truck rear end, and Medical... Well, I've been home from the hospital for 3 1/2 days. I thought now would be a good time to give an update. The surgery went well. Plan was to go in and replace a 'loosened component' of the original knee replacement... Upon entry to the knee the surgeons found the components to be intact, and solidly secured. What was found, however, was excessive scarring of all the tissues surrounding the implant. This scarring was constantly getting in and around the moving parts, keeping it inflamed and swollen all the time. The decision was made to clean up all the scar tissue, then leave behind a bunch of steroids to reduce inflammation during the healing period, thus reducing the amount of scarring. Revision of Physical Therapy plans to reduce anything strenuous, and focus on range of motion therapy. This should allow healing with minimum scarring. Then, if needed, strengthening can be done. And now, I'm spending 4 hours a day on a continuous passive motion machine. Another 45min to an hour doing exercises at home, except on PT days, when PT replaces one of the at home sessions. So much for the Medical stuff. Thanks again to all for the support. As for my truck... Well, Bill H and I took back the rear axle assembly to where I had the work done on January 13th... Keeping in mind that the primary reason for letting someone else work on my truck was to conserve time so I could have her up and running before my surgery!! Weekend before surgery, Saturday, I talked to David Yackley. He said that he had received a new original style bushing, and promptly ruined it trying to install. Ordered another one 'overnight'. I called last Friday, as he Never has called me with information, to hear that "I've got the rearend finished, except I haven't put the yoke into the new bushing yet." "I'll bring it over in the morning." Saturday morning I called the shop to let them know I'd be home at 10:30 am from PT. Guy that answered the phone said, "David's not here. He went after some part for a rearend." I haven't heard anything else since. I'm betting he screwed up the yoke I gave him for fitting, and is scrounging for another! Just a guess on my part, but a logical assumption, I think. Fella's been "doing this for 30 years," but I'm becoming more and more angry at the lack of progress. You guys that do this kinda' stuff for hire, enlighten me if need be. I don't mean to step on any toes, I'm just saying what's going on with this one shop! I realize there's nothing I can really do, either with the shop, or even if I had the parts, I couldn't install them now... I just think 3 weeks is enough time, If the man really knew what he was doing.
Glad to hear you and the knee are on the road to recovery. These things tend to put all other things into perspective. As for the rear end, maybe check with the guy to get the straight scoop. Might be a logical reason for the delay? The advantages of quick and/or cheap quickly fade when quality has been compromised. John
Home Again As much as I always push following P.T. regimens , that machine sounds like torture . I imagine he's just un familiar with the torque tube , oakie bushing and so on ~ it's not a job for the faint of heart .
The CPM machine looks a little like something they train astronauts with, too. You lay on your back in bed, and put your freshly carved leg into a padded "cradle," and strap in. This thing bends at the Knee joint. A motor slowly raises the foot and calf as it brings it toward your hip, thus bending the freshly carved knee to a pre-determined angle, and then back out to straight. Spend 2 hours at a time on this, twice a day, (3 times if possible). Then once each day, go to Physical Torture... I mean Therapy. And once a day 'at home' exercises. Settling into a routine, though, and hoping all this truly works out properly.
I'm not keeping up with the forum, apparently. Rear axle is installed, and has been to Ft. Worth and back. Right rear seal is out, and leaking diff oil all over the brake, though. I called the repair shop as soon as I noticed the problem, and they said "We'll fix that. Just call a couple of days ahead so we can get a seal. Probably do it in half a day." I'll be taking it back in a couple of weeks. I've got to tear down the rear of the engine area again, as the oil leak is still present!! That means pulling transmission, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and bell housing. Again! My Brother and I believe the 'freeze plug in the end of the oil galley is leaking, but I'm gonna' seal the threads on ALL the bolts I put back anyway. She used (leaked) a quart of oil about every 220 miles or so. Coated the underside, and some of the outside! I've gotta get this problem resolved....