So at long last I will have all the parts I need to complete the brake system. It took three separate orders, but I will finally have everything to finish this. First I got the mc bracket and the mc. Funny, it didn't come with the proportioning valve like in the picture. This made me think maybe it didn't need one. Tech people said otherwise. So I ordered the proportioning valve and a 2 and 10 pound pressure valve. I didn't realize there are two ports on the proportioning valve for the front brake lines... Ordered another 2 pound valve. Just out of curiosity, I thought I'd ask the tech guy at Summit if they made a bracket to mount the proportioning valve on, you know, like in the pictures... That is now on it's way here as well. Along with the short brake lines that go from the cylinder to the proportioning valve. Yay~ I'll get there, I know I will.
Sure! The 6-lug disc brake conversion came from CPP (ordered through our host) #4759DBK-6 Master Cylinder, CPP as well, #4756MCA Master Cylinder Adapter Kit from our host, # 71-984 Proportioning valve, from Summit, #CLP-PV-2 Proportioning valve, Summit, #RSD-RV02 (you will need two of these) Proportioning valve, Summit, #RSD-RV10 Mounting Bracket for proportioning valve and short brake lines that connect valve to MC, from Summit, # CLP-PVB-LK-S Then of course, there are a few brake lines I have yet to figure, but I will try and keep track of those lengths that I end up using.
Zig, the excitement is building. It must be spring break, all this activity? This thread is seeming to be suffering a photographic deficit, however.
How To Pack Roller bearings https://video.search.yahoo.com/vide...a&sigb=136qmbf81&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001 Jeezo-Peezo that's a long link , I hope it works . Right at the 1:00 mark you can see the grease mooshing out of the tops of the rollers between the cage and race ~ this is the critical part ! . If this doesn't work I'll go find another video as proper bearing packing really is important and takes a bit of time , notice how he barely nips at the edge of the blob of grease in his palm ~ me . after getting the blob of grease in my palm , I smack the back of my hand on my knee to flatten it out so it doesn't come mooshing up over the outside of the bearing , making it harder to see when the grease is well and truly packed between the rollers . This is why I mentioned the cheap and simple bearing packers ~ I prefer by hand but many do not . Bill (everyone) : YES ~ NO PRELOAD on any bearing unless you want it to run hot and wear out ~ I still have 60 year old bearing that I luckily got in good shape and faithfully clean and re grease then adjust to .002" clearance . It is permissible (necessary IMO) to run the castle nut down to zero lash as you're hand rotating the hub to properly " set " the bearing and races but then you need to back it off and snug a few times whilst you rotate the hub.... FWIW , I have never , not once burned out any hand adjusted wheel bearing . DON'T ' save $ ' by buying cheap grease ! Moly based (it'll be black and stain any cloth) or synthetic (developed for boats & trailers to resist water damage but good stuff if $pendy) greases are the way to go in wheel bearings .
Oh yes ~ 'suck' , Er , _HUCK_ Brake Parts I hope you'll make some effort to get these parts into the hands of a '37 ~ '50 Chevrolet owner as they were used on Passenger cars too , just *barely* adequate for a Business Coupe , they're highly sought after by those Die Hards who want everything ' as original ' . Maybe try listing them (with pix) in the classifieds here or over on any '37 ~ '50 Chevy Passenger Car Tech Forums...
Zig - Quick question In regards to the brake calipers in the kit, how do you remove the 2 hex head screws in order to fasten them to the mounting bracket? I messed around with it a bit tonight and figured I would just have to ask because I couldn't think of a solution that did not involve a hammer....
Slow answer I'm sorry Steve, but I just can't figure which two bolts/screws it is you are talking about. If you could post a picture, that may help. Sorry I can't do better than that. :/
Sorry about that.... Here are a couple of pictures: Like I say the only thought that comes next is hitting them with a hammer to remove them because when I turn them with a hex wrench they just spin
Those are standard GM bolts. My Allen "socket" for these bolts measures 0.475" across the flats. FLAPS should have a 3/8" drive Allen "socket".
My screws just turn.... Bill - I have tried to use the allen socket and the screw just spins??? Perhaps it has bottomed out and I need to put a little pressure on the end of it so the threads catch again and then I can back the screw out???? I will try that tonight when I get home but I thought there might be something else I was missing.....
Steve~ Here are the pictures of how the calipers mount. (Post # 4 and 8 of this thread, page 1) Honestly, I don't remember how I mounted them, I just did what I thought I needed to. Plus, I believe there were some instructions? Anyway, I hope these pictures show what you are looking for, and yes, and Allen wrench was probably used. What EVER you do, DON'T whack it with a hammer!!!!
I agree that the bolt has gone too far through the threaded hole. Something funky here. Wrong bolt for that caliper???
Mystery Solved So after messing around with them a bit, I had to apply a little force to the end of the bolt and they actually just come out. They are not threaded into the caliber as I would have thought they would have been. Thanks for the input and advice as always. On a separate but related question, how smooth should I get the spindles before installing the bearings? The instructions say to use 180 grit emery cloth to clean them up. I have a few good ridges that could be smoothed out but not sure how aggressive to get with them.
Glad to hear it, Steve! So what roller bearings are you using? I reused the original ball bearings as I had planned on running the original wheels. Now that I have much wider tires and wheels, I'm thinking I may need to swap them for roller bearings, but only because I have read that with wider tires, ball bearings won't last. I wonder if there is any truth to this, or if it's just a way to sell more parts.
What is missing from your picture is the bracket that attaches to the spindle. The threaded portion of bolt threads into and tightens to the bracket.
Zig - I have the roller bearings I bought the roller bearings some time ago so I am just putting those back. Unfortunately I don't have the technical knowledge to give my opinion as to whether or not they would be a better option but everything I read seems to indicate that is the way you should go when you upgrade to a disc brake option. The ones I bought were from Classic and seem to work fine.
hello, I too am doing the disc upgrade on my 49 chevy pickup. I bought the same setup as you. my question is you bought the proportion valve CLP-PV-2 from summit and you bought 3 more additional valves. I was under the impression that was the only valve needed. I ran new brake lines to each of the front calipers from that valve, and 1 to the rear brakes.
Well, here's the deal~ I was (under the impression) that there would be ONE line going forward, one going to the rear. Much to my surprise, this valve was made with two forward, one big rear port. Two lines forward made me buy two valves~ one for each line. The line to the rear from this was engineered for a 1/4 inch line that splits into two 3/16 inch lines that feed the rear. (unless you are running original lines, then run what you need to hook into your new MC.) What I guess I plan to do is run 1/4 inch line over to the original drop off and find a hose that might have a built in tee that goes to 3/16". Since the 10 pound in line valves are fitted for 3/16, I guess I will order another 10 pound valve and have one for each rear wheel. The alternative is step it down to 3/16" somewhere in the 1/4" line. I'm just not sure restricting flow over that distance is a good idea. Does any of that make sense?
here Is what I did, I ran 2 separate lines to the front 3/16 because that was the size of the rubber hoses that hook into the front calipers. the rear I ran a 8 inch adapter from the large port on the back of the CLP-PV-2 valve and it connected into the old 1/4 line on the frame. leaving the back brakes running on a single line. I called tech support and asked about the 2 ports on the valve and the guy say I can plug one and run a single line to the front but since I had to replace the 1/4 line with 3/16 it was easier to run 2 lines. easiest thing is take the CLP-PV-2 valve to NAPA and they will help you with what you need.
