Mondo power ! Wow ~ . Have you checked the valve to piston crown clearances with clay yet ? . This beast is going to shred tires , clutches and pretzel drive shafts if you let it out too far .
I love this stuff... makes me grin just reading it. Nate, do I detect a little APPROVAL??? The term you gave me, CURBSTONER, keeps popping up in my head. Started about the time I was helping push the Camaro on to the trailer.
We never checked the clearance we turned the motor over everything sounded ok the guys I bought the cam from said it would work now I'm kinda worrying about it
That LS is going in my 48 my 53 still has the 216 but it has the duel single barrel carbs and a split manifold
' Dueling ' Carbys If you take the time to properly balance them , they'll be nice dual carbys instead of the problematic ' dueling ' version..... . Sorry , I simply couldn't resist . I'm also an LBC Owner/Lover/Mechanic/Nutter and on another Tech Site someone last night was complaining about how awful dual carbys are ~ they're not *if* you take the time and effort to properly set them up and balance them ~ they never , EVER ' go out of adjustment ' unless YOU fiddle with them endlessly . I expect some videos of you shredding the tires with your killer V-ate engine when it's done .
A little progress, baby steps, really... Decided to pull the trigger on a Alum. NoLimit rear-mounted gas tank. This caused me more concern about the cost than anything on this project so far. Even the cost of the Fatman coilover front end didn't make me fret like this fuel tank. Ordered it with the in-tank high volume fuel pump installed. Supposed to be capable of 650HP. The fabrication of the tank is top-notch, very nice TIG welding. The engineering of it is OK, I guess, but, for what it cost, I thought it could be better. It is intended to mount to the bottom of the frame, and the bottom of the rear arched x-member. The flanges are just welded straight and do NOT match the contour of the frame OR x-member. After calling, was told to use hardwood blocks sanded to match everything. Not my style, so, started re-engineering the mounting myself. I decided to take the arch out of the forward flange of the x-member, and set the tank side mounts on spacers inside the frame flanges. This raised the tank mounting about 2" and looks better from the rear also. Good thing I had not boxed the rear frame yet. Exhaust routing will be a challenge. Here's a few pics. Oh, yeah, added a Chassis Engineering rear sway bar also.
What did that set you back? I got the Brother's tank and it fit like a glove. I didn't get a fuel pump in mine so I opted for the Aeromotive Phantom 340. That sucker cost some bucks but I wanted to do that job once and only once.
Nice work, looking good Steve. I truly hate seeing a gas tank hanging under the back of a vehicle. Your proof that with a bit of ingenuity we can always make things "better". That sway bar will be nice too. Have you thought about running your tail pipes outside the frame rails? That worked pretty well on my ole Orange Crate build.
The price was $809.00. That included everything, internal welded baffles for the EFI pump, pump itself,(a 255LPH pump), stainless stand for the pump, a simple pigtail tied off, steel mounting plates that ended up serving as the "ledge" the tank sits on, and the mediocre engineering. I looked at yours repeatedly, pondered several different brands and, ended up wanting aluminum, and thought NoLimit would be worth a try. I could not find anyone with a pictured install at the other giant forum, so, I just went ahead. I'm happy with it now.
Thanks, John. I wanted to be able to see the rear axle under the rear of the truck, not just a big silver box. I was much happier with the revised mounting. I'm going to have to figure out a way to do the exhaust as you did, or take it out just behind the rear tires. I don't really want to run it out under the running boards, the trucks gonna be low anyway. Running cherry bombs just past the rear of the cab with turn-downs would make me smile, but, would stir-up dust.
ever forward... Thanks, Nate. Finally had time to test fit, mock-up and weld in motor mounts/ engine. Bought a set of hooker engine mount adaptors from a speed shop in Champaign, IL. Scram Speed, the owner seemed like a good guy and sold them to me cheap. He has a ebay store. After the adaptors, you just bolt on small block engine mounts. I like the Chassis Engineering "biscuit" style mounts. My thinking is that they put the torque load straight down as opposed to angled outward like standard small block mounts. The Fatman front x-member does not have any gussets on the inside of the frame. Set the cab back on and pushed the engine as far back as I could. Three degrees down, measure, measure, and measure again. Burn the mounts in good and solid. Waiting for a tubular trans. x-member from our host. Mike was right, those truck oil pans sure hang low. I think I'll use a Cad. CTS-V pan, should be just right. I'm going to have to fabricate a trans. tunnel, also, about 2". to clear the 4L60E I'm using.
and a little more... I know, most of you are thinking, that is one butt-ugly engine. I agree for now. I'll be getting rid of that black plastic intake manifold. Probably get a Weiand polished alum. one from the same speed shop in Il. Sanderson block-hugger headers, Maybe MSD controller with hi-volume fuel rails, Holley polished valve covers, red MSD coils. I'm afraid to run the adding machine on that($$$), but, should still be reasonable dollars for horsepower in this modern expensive world. Assuming that used engine is a good one...
Nope ! What I see there is the very essence of proper Hot Rodding ~ You're taking the time to build , massage and adjust and peak & tweak it so when it's done , it really will be done , then you can take it all apart and paint / chrome / whatever it to your heart's content . I assume those ' biscuit ' engine mounts have through bolts for safety ? . I'm not sure if I ever posted any pix of my engine on the stand as I wire brushed it to shiny bare metal then re painted it , then all those accessories , brackets, on and on and....
Thanks, Nate, I appreciate the encouragement. The mounts have through-bolts, grade eight, I think. Sometimes I think the word "when" might better be replaced with "if". The thing is blown apart now, getting ready for paint. I'm learning the automotive paint industry has changed a lot in seven years, since I last painted anything much. Regs. on reducers and thinners, no more Dupont, sold out and discontinued Imron and Centari acrylic enamel. Guess I'll try PPG Del-Fleet essential. Never used PPG products before.
Progress Good morning Steve ; Grade 8 is good . I almost always use used hardware I personally select , clean and prepare , Chinese stuff is O.K. for some things , not so much in hardware as I've personally had new Chinese fasteners fail (break) under light duty , not a good thing . PPG Paints are pretty good . The prep is 90% of the job assuming you know how to handle the gun ~ I don't so most things I paint look really lousy . Remember to only mix and add hardener to whatever in the paint cup . I assume you're using a vastly better HVLP typ paint gun , those vintage Binks were terrific yes but the Harbor Freight cheapo HVLP gun gets the nod from all the Painters I know . Practice on the back and under sides of things before attacking the exterior bits .
Fantastic work!!! You have really got some great skills, Steve! Being able to weld really opens the doors to what can be done! I love the direction you are taking and can't wait to see the final results! Thanks for all the great visuals as well!
show and tell day... Thanks, Zig, for the kind words. Here are some pics of some final assembly. This really changed my mood, simply because I can say PART of the project is finished. Took the thing partially apart, sandblasted the main frame and rear axle, scuffed the small new parts and sprayed everything with epoxy primer. This included the radiator surround and other misc. parts not shown. Then painted everything with acrylic enamel, with hardener. Then, two coats of urethane clear over that. Used my old DeVilbiss gun, Nate. The color: Storm Grey Metallic Pearl. The wheels: American Racing Torque Thrust 2, 17X8, 17X9.5. I WILL have to mini-tub the bed sides. The tires: Continental Extreme Contact DW, summer only tires. 245/45ZR17 front, 275/40ZR17 rear. I still need to "hang" and paint some more small parts, such as bumper brackets and master cyl. bracket, etc. Anyway, I seem to have turned from dis-assembly to re-assembly in a small way.
