Hi guys, it?s been a while since i last posted some upgrades, but in the meantime i have been enjoying my truck quit a lot. It has been useful also a few times to haul stuff and every where i go with it, people mostly give thumbs up, since trucks like these are pretty rare here. Anyway, as this rig actually belongs to my wife, i promised, to add power steering for her, to make it more driveable. I went through the net several times, to find the best solution for me and to keep everything looking as original as possible. I did get a steering box from a 1995 G20 van, which seems to be a good candidate, as it is readily available and does steer in the same direction as the original box. I did fabricate a bracket, to bolt the new box in the stock location and cut the original steering column about 5 inches from the firewall. I will post some pics soon, did not bring the camera to the shop...
Looking forward to some photos as right now the 4WD Toyota boxes that are a nice fit are getting hard to find and pricey.
Hopefully, you can see the pictures, i?m not sure, if it worked out... Now am waiting for the steering coupler, to be delivered by the post man. The bracket is attached with the original bolt holes and the steering arm sits now pretty much in the same location as before. I have to make it about 2 inches longer, as the gear box does sit a bit higher as the original one, but this should not be a too big of a deal. Lets see, how it works, i can?t wait to finish this and take her for a spin. I also did buy me a steering damper, to reduce wondering of the front wheels.
By the way, the big nuts you see are just for mockup, i will make some proper spacers with my lathe for final assembly;-)
No worries zig, there?s a cable tie, to hold them out of place, since i?ve already taken the box out and in about ten times and at about five times got stuck half way in the lines
Very nice fab job on the mount bracket. Looks like just a rag joint will connect the box shaft to the steering shaft. I wonder if this would clear the wider V8 engine?
V8 Thank you Evan, i ordered a rag joint, hopefully comes in today... I was wondering, if this would help in installing a V8, but i guess just from the picture, it?s too hard to tell? I?m considering this swap later on, since i also bought a "new" old rear end from the guy i got the steering box. The rear end is from a 68 C10 which is still 6 lug and open driveshaft and better gearing... The axle does have exactly the same width, only misses the leaf spring saddle, but this should not be a big deal to fabricate. I?m sick of the low gearing and the joint does seep lots of ATF, but that?s another story
Rag joint. Yesterday the postman heard my crying and so i was lucky, to receive the rag joint, which came out of a 1996 Blazer. A bit of cutting and milling the shaft...
coming closer the steering setup is done, and seems to work pretty good, one issue is, the ATF i added turned pink and milky, no idea, what that is??? could it be, that the remainings in the steering box was mineral oil and did not like me adding synthetics?? Now i?m starting with the rear end. It is supposed to be off of a 1968 C10. I?m thinking of partly rebuilding it, while it?s still on the work bench. Can any of you gentlemen identify the rear end and tell me, if this is 1/2 ton or 3/4, please? Thank you all for helping on this topic.
How many wheel studs are on the axles where the wheel bolts on, 5,6, or 8 ? 8= 3/4 ton 1 ton 6= 1/2 ton truck 5= car, 1/4 or 1/2 ton truck
Charles, is it that simple? Ok, it is a six lug axle, i wanted to keep it that way, all wheels still interchange around the truck... Thank you for quick replay.
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=532832 , http://www.c10trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496 , http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gm-12-bolt-id-help.638192/. Just google the # as I just did and see what is shows.
This 'N That Elky ; I'd suggest flushing the power steering out A.S.A.P. as milky means there's water in it and that's a *very* bad thing . Easy way : buy a gallon or two of cheap ATF , support the front wheels off the ground , fill the P.S. reservoir fully , disconnect the return hose and connect it to a really big jug or oil pan then have some one else start it up and slowly turn it lock to lock at idle and you pour in fresh fluid ~ it'll pump the dirty ATF out REALLY fast to be ready and try not to run it with no ATF in the system . Repeat this until no more milky / brown / black ATF comes out the P.S. return hose . NAPA also sells nifty P.S. filters with a magnet inside that you place in the return hose . How's the rear end project coming along ? .
great help again Thanks char and Nate, i have to read through this tonight. I did flush the PS system on Saturday, but ran out of ATF. I ordered some cheaper stuff, might come in today... With the rear end, i disassembled the 'new' old one, to clean it and maybe also put new seals and bearings in it while its still on the bench. I also removed the backing plates of my old rear end and put them on the new axle. I discovered, the bolt holes are slightly off, but the center hole does fit perfectly. This way i can keep the brakes all 1953 and e-cable and shoes are 3 years old. Also the new axle only come with one brake drum and one backing plate is damaged....
Elky, Did you ever get your steering finnished? I am considering duplicating your setup as it seems to be a very clean and simple fab/install. Good pictures by the way. Thx, Dave.
Really nice work---would be proud to have you in my shop. Your bottom of the steering mount bracket is very nice, many just use a exhaust pipe bracket and U-bolt. What did you use for a bearing/bushing in the bottom of the mast jacket (steering column). You have no problem since you have a power steering box but on manual steering shafts it is better to use the side of a large end mill to make the flats for a rag or double D joint as this gives a radius at the flat to round transition point on the steering shaft. I don't know if the steering box spacers were planned but it is always better to to have a place for shims than to have to cut and move a bracket.
