Hi All. Would really appreciate some help trouble shooting a problem I've been having. I have a 1952 chevy, all orginal engine and starter, that used to start no problem using a 6v battery. This included some cold alberta winter starts. (I wouldn't recommend it, but it's part of my wifes wedding rental fleet and she wanted to do some photo shoots and the garage isn't heated). I started noticing that the battery was having troubles getting it started. A couple of times in a pinch I ended up needing to boost it with my 12v truck battery. This ended up turning into a every time thing. The battery even when it said fully charged still didn't do anything. I figured the battery was going and purchased a new 6v battery. Hooked it up and nothing. Thought maybe it was dead, charged and still nothing. Now I'm noticing that I cant even boost it with a regular 12v battery. Only thing that seems to have enough juice is my duramax and even that's starting to cause me issues. I've tried hooking the battery up directly to the starter (instead of grounding on the truck frame I attached to the negative to the bolt on the starter) and it still wouldn't budge. When I push the button on the starter it winds up and goes, but activating the full starter assembly and engaging the fly wheel? It jus doesn't want to go. Is that something that can seize or require other lubricant than engine oil? I'm really green at this. Sorry if I used wrong terminology etc. First old vehicle and we've had it for 8 months or so. I've tried some google searches but haven't really found anyone with similar issues. Any ideas or feedback would be appreciated.
Welcome to the forum. If you are not much of a "do it yourself" person, get a new starter. If you know which end of a screwdriver to hold, here is my explanation of how I did a back yard overhaul of the starter on my '52 GMC. Part numbers for the Chevy starter may be different. For example, I just looked up the bushings for the Chevy starter and two different sizes were listed. Anyway, here is the text from my 2016 post on OldGMCtrucks web site. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The starter on my '52 150 GMC began making funny noises a few weeks ago. I decided to overhaul it myself, with a little help from my buddy Bill. Some research showed that the most likely starter for my truck was part number 1107108. I got on O'Reilly's web site and found the following BWD (Borg Warner) parts: Starter drive (Bendix) SD212 Drive end bushing SB65 Commutator end bushing SB0 Brushes (set of 4) X265 Brush spring (need 4) SC204 Removed the ground wire from the battery, then all wires from the stomp starter switch. Took the starter apart and cleaned everything up well. Under a layer of paint from a previous overhaul, I found the starter part number 1107108 as I hoped and a build date of Aug 3, 1952, newer than my truck. Painted all the exterior parts. The Maintenance Manual warned against using Emery cloth on the commutator. My buddy Bill (retired electrician at an Exxon gas plant) said that was because the dust will conduct. I used regular garnet 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the commutator and then Bill used a modified hack saw blade to clean out the gaps and undercut the mica insulators. We cut the old bushings out with a small chisel, folding the bushing material into the center of the hole. Then we carefully installed the new bushings using the back side of a 9/16" socket as a driver and tapping gently with a hammer. Replaced the springs and brushes one at a time so I could look at the other 3 to make sure I was putting it back together correctly. Left the brushes slightly loose in their holders. Installed the commutator end plate onto the armature and then tightened the screws holding the brushes once they were properly positioned. Used a small dab of high temp grease in both bushings and on the pivot point of the arm that throws the starter drive in. Bolted everything else back together and re-installed the starter. A tip for getting the starter back in by yourself. Get a 2"-3" long 5/16" bolt and nut. Put the bolt through the hole in the top end of the arm that activates the starter switch and turn the nut on a few turns. Makes a good handle to hold the starter while getting the nut on the top mounting stud. Once the nut is on the top stud a few turns, crawl underneath and install the underside bolt all the way tight before you finish tightening the nut on the top. Don't forget to wait until all the starter wires are installed before connecting the battery ground cable. By the way, I've been running this 6 volt starter on 12 volts for 3+ years now. WORKS GREAT!
Hi Bill, Thank you very much for the detailed explanation! I will take a look. I'll probably end up replacing the starter instead of trying to rebuild it.
WARNING !!!! If you buy a rebuilt, exchange starter (or generator, water pump, carby, distributor etc.) never, EVER turn in your old worn out, inoperable and seemingly worthless old part until after the job is finished and working to your 100 % satisfaction ! . Never trust you're going to get the correct rebuilt part . Before you install the replacement starter, count the number of teeth on the bendix and be sure they match the number on the old starter .
Thanks vwnate1. That's good advice. I definitely wouldn't have looked too closely. Trucks out at a venue so I haven't had a chance to look for any markings etc. And try and track down something that fits.
You're welcome . I vaguely recall working on one of these in 1967 or so...... . Also : remove both battery cables and ensure the ends are clean and shiny, the ground cable MUST be : A: at least # 1 gauge (preferably 0 gauge) and B : bolted directly to the engine or transmission, never the frame nor body . Many will say 'oh but it's been working this way as long as I've had it' ~ that may well be however electrickery is a fickle mistress and if you really want it to work properly as it did when new, sweat the small things . Any partshaus can order in the correct # 0 or 1 gauge cables, you just have to ask the boob behind the counter to open a BOOK . If you saw the dilapidated old rigs I work like rented mules you'd be shocked that I go any where any time , I cn do this because I sweat the details .
