Old blue looks funny sitting in the shed on blocks and to be honest I think she's getting tired of it. My question is: Currently I am doing a swap to a '95 Silverado rear end and front disc brakes. I have a single, unused vacuum advance line coming off the front my Holley card, (which I believe is 650cfm) and I was going to hook the booster to that, but the line is not big enough. I have another vacuum line running from the right side carb to a fitting on the right hand valve cover. Can I use the right side line to run the brakes, and the line in the front to run . . . well, what ever is going into the valve cover? The motor is a 2002 350ci HO from GM Performance Parts. Also, I have a vent tube on the new rear end and its quite long. Sould I run the vent a) straight up to the bed then forward or b) straight up to the bed then back? Let me know! Thanks!
Depening On The Intake Your Using You Should Have And Outlet You Can Thread In A Nipple And Use It For The Vaccum For Your Booster.
Check the back of the carb for a place for a fitting. Otherwise there should be a plug on the intake manifold you can use. Just by a 90 and thred it on. I would also say ou probably should run the vent to the back. If it was forward you would probably have a better chance of getting water into it. Brian
Well, the truck has been on jacks for eight days now! So sad to see her sit there. Good news is all I have left to do is run new brake lines and bleed the system!
The front end now sits on the ground under her own weight. All brake lines run. Still need to - Turn Rear drums Bleed system Hook up stabilizer bar Attach booster linkage to brake pedal
I got a kit from CCP that allowed me to retain my stock spindles. I simply pulled the old hubs off the front and put on new ones. The old dust plate for the drum brakes had to go to make room for the caliper brakets. And I had to run all new brake line. Even before my restoration, the frontend of my truck was really solid and drove straight, so there was really nothing that needed to be replaced.
The rearend was out of a '95 Siverado with 3.07 gears to mate better with my 350 tranny. I considered drilling them out to a six-lug pattern, but the problem was that my wheels were 15x8 with 3-1/4" backspacing. The '95 rear end is two inches longer than the '71 rear end I had. So I bought a slimmer wheel and tire to keep them from poking out past the fenders. Worked well. Converted to 5 lug. No pics - It was me and my cousin trying to do the conversion in a day and really didn't have any time to fool with a camera. Sorry!
It was a B****. First, we deleted everything from the '95's tubes, made them smooth. Then we had to determine WHERE the extra 2" came from - it was in the pumpkin. We (meaning me and my cousin) had to measure the distance between the old mounts on the rear end, divide that in half, determine the center point on the new rear end, then take the half measurement off the old one and put it to the new rear end to figure out where the left mount went, then take the FULL measurement and determine where the right mount went. This entire process included a sharpie, a 2x4 with algebraic equations written all over it, and an hour and a half of head scratching. Oh, and we had to figure out with a protractor how far the new rear end needed to be tilted back on the mounting brackets. Whew! When we thought we had it, we just tack-welded the brackets on in case something was wrong and we'd need to break them. But once we slid it in to do a test fit, the U-bolts fell right in. Then we just laid the finish welds with it on the truck. The stabilizer bar was much easier - pick where you want it to go and weld it in!
