I'm going to rebuild my grandfathers 66. I have a 79 frame is this a easy swap or should i rebuild the original?
Welcome to the Forum, I'd rebuild the original. Frame dimensions on the 79 are different in MANY areas. Cab mounts, bed mounts, radiator core support, etc etc.... As with anything, it's NOT impossible, just a lot more work.... All the parts to rebuild the suspension are available including HERE from our hosts Classic Parts. Check the frame rails and crossmembers for signs of rot, check measurements of the frame for straightness. Good luck, and post any questions you might have here.. Lots of good advice to be had ! Val
You could use the 79 front clip and bolt it in place on the 66. Scavenge the proportioning valve for the disc brakes and add a dual circuit master cylinder...it's almost a direct bolt in, I had to drill two holes, the rest lined up great. Then on to the power steering, REZ interprises makes a plate to bolt the late model truck box to the early frame, you will have to cut the straight steer shaft and add a late 'rag joint from the donor as well. There's more I know but that's the general oultline. Much easier without the fenders and engine but it can be done that way too. Ok, that's the front, for the rear try to find a 71-72 coil spring 5-lug differential and your good to go. I used the donor rear and cut off the leaf spring perches and welded the coil perches on, a bit of setup work with a degree wheel and tape measure, I ended up using the two-piece driveshaft, cut 2" off the end of it and welded the yoke back on...lucky me it doesn't vibrate~ I'll bet there are plenty of guys on this forum that'll be willing to pitch in with some more advice, so don't hesitate to ask. Good Luck!
bobcat77 Thanks for the important information, but I have a few questions if you don't mind. Is the dual circuit master cylinder you used from the 79 or did you go with a new one made for your 66. For the steering shaft would I have to cut and add a late rag joint if I'm going to use and newer column say from a 72 or from a van.
I had the original brake booster rebuilt, then found the master cylinder from a 78-79 Dodge fit just right, the bore was 1-1/8 (same as the '74 donor chevy). For the steering shaft, I cut the orig. under that fender cover plate and welded on the donor shaft at the universal joint. It slipped right on in and I put a good bead around it. The fiber joint *aka rag joint* was good so I used it again at the steerbox. As long as you have a ujoint style column to line up with the steerbox it should work. A tilt unit from a 72 would be great, no key in there and has the 3-speed auto indicator to boot...The idler arm bolted on where the old one was. I will say this, it will turn a tighter radius to the right than the left, but in no way affects the way it drives or anything. I made adjustments to the stops for the spindle before I had it aligned. Also, this was done to a 3/4 ton, but the same procedure will work for the 1/2 tons. I even suspended the engine with a chain and pipe across the fenders while I rolled the front ends around. Good time to change motormounts as well as rebush and re-tierod as well as brakehoses too. You'll have to buy a length of straight brake line and make your bends from the proportioning valve too, just for the rear brakes. Use the donor brake lines from the mastercylinder to the valve. I mounted the valve down low on the drivers side, sorta dictated by the donor lines, just make a simple bracket... Hope this helps, it's been 7 years now since I've done this so my mind is a bit foggy~ GOOD LUCK
2x4 or 4x4 I assume you are going to keep it a 2wd? If you are going to go to 4wd it is much easier. With a 4x4 you can put about a 3" body lift on the truck and it goes much easier. That looks a little goofy if it is 2wd. I have a '62 sitting on a '84 (same as the late 70s) 2wd frame. This is still a project and has not been driven yet, but it is close. I wanted it low so I had to do a lot of frame mods. My frame had been a long bed and conveted to a short bed before I got it. The length was wrong for the 62 wheelbase. I had to shorten it another 3". I am not sure if the guy before me cut it to the right length so that measurement may be different. A long bed doner frame will work just cut more out. I cut the top of the frame at the front of the bed. I lowered the top flange about 3". Don't quote me on that measurement, it is a guess. If someone needs an exact measurement let me know. That makes the frame to short for strength so I added 3" to the bottom of the frame. That extension tapers out toward the front of the frame due to the drop in the stock frame. I continued the addition toward the rear to the front spring perch. The cab mounts then need to be lowered on the frame. The rear ones are easy. They are at the right place just to high on the frame. Mark holes and lower them. The front cab mounts have to be custom built. Then you need to make front core support mounts which are just the 66 mounts relocated on the front of the bobed frame. Motor and transmission mounts may need to be changed. I have a little diesel in mine so I don't know if they are to far forward for a SBC. Power steering hoses and brake lines need to be customized. All this is a LOT of work. I didn't have enough of the original frame to use it. I couldn't find another at the time. I should have kept looking until I found one. These later frames have wider track width! If you have oversizes tires they will NOT fit in the fenders. My '62 is a stepside. I have 8" GM truck rally wheels with 255/15 tires. They do NOT clear the stock fenders. I have 6 1/2" wide GM van rallys in the front with 205/15 tires. I am not sure if they are going to clear while cornering yet. My 2 cents - stay with the stock frame.
longbed to shortbed If you log on to the web sight of the TV show "Trucks" they have an episode where they not only show you how to cut the frame down to a shortbed but they also show you how to cut the bed down itself, very interesting.
