Can anyone tell me why my started seems to not want to dis-ingage. In the last two days it has stuck on twice. With the battery box on the floor and covered with carpet is is a chore getting to it.Last time I was about to open it when the starter stop spinning. It also does not always ingage and spins, I hold the foot peg down till it feel like it will stop in the right place then I push it in the rest of the way. If I do not do that it will spin out two or three pushing times before just ingaging the right way. Anyone got an idea on how to stop any of these issues??? She also through off/broke the fan belt off today.
Pedal starters are supposed to have a return spring externally on the monkey-motion linkage , right on the passenger side & it's gone missing 90 % of the time . go to Obsolete Chevrolet or The On Line Manual Project and look at the pix in the parts catalogs , might be in your assembly manual I dunno , mine is 32 miles from here . The starter itself is very responsive to disassembly , cleaning and re-greasing with Moly grease , whilst it's apart you can polish (but not sand ! never , ever sand an electrical contact !) the contact buttons on both the starter and the starter switch , then when you re-assemble it the switch is adjustable so the gear is fully engauged before the electrical contact is made . I hope this helps .
Nate; Just got a new fan belt back on, had to lenghten the slot in the ajustment arm and it started twice without the spin or the prolonged runnung. So for tonight and tomorrow I will not under take cleaning the starter up. ('ll print out your comments. For some reason it took half agallon of anti freeze to cap of the radiator. Carb is leaking at the bottom iof it somehow. The old carter had been rebuilt right after i got it so, ... . . . . . Thanks for the help.
Charles ; Look at the base of the carby , there the throttle shaft goes though ~ it is normal to have fuel stains there... Every time you press the foot feed , a jet of fuel sprays down the venturi and some of it will leak out past the throttle shaft when the engine isn't running . If the carby remains wet when you're driving , carefully remove the carby top (" Air Horn ") and ever so gently bend the tang on the float _open_ maybe 1/16" more , this will lower the level of fuel in the bowl and might help but if the Air Horn to body joint isn't leaking , the float level is prolly correct . The coolant level in these old trucks is much lower than you're used to , because of high turbulence in the upper tank when you're on the open road and the fact that the cap isn't pressureized ~ it'll seek it's own level by puking out the excess coolant every time you drive it so fill to 2" below the lower level of the filler neck and go for a ride , note where the coolant levels out to the next time it's cold (often 4" below the filler neck) and remember it , don't worry unless it overheats ~ overheating means steam and coolant blowing out , not seeing the gauge go to 200° F ! . Remember : this old tech engine wants no more than 40 % coolant and DO NOT use gold colored coolant ! . I highly recommend the use of distilled water over tap water due to high mineral contant (' Hard Water ') in most Munincipal water these days . BTW : if you see crusty white / yellow stuff on the tubes when you peer inside the radiator , I know how to clean 'em out without taking anything apart... NAPA and Std. Ignition plus more carry the starter brushes , DO NOT sand the commutator ! clean the black crap off of it with a wire brush and maybe some electro-contact cleaner in a Foo-Foo can , a _tiny_ dab of good grease in the bushing and on the drive end bushing and re-assemble it . I hope this helps .
Thanks for the help Nate on these issues. If time will let me, and if my back will let me, it is acting up again. Two operations and 4 years of bliss was good, xrays show the fusions and hardware are good, must something else like deposits building in the channel so we will see how the progress of pain is over the next months. Again thanks,
For Nate why do you say not to sand the contacts? im an electrician by trade and we sometimes have to replace motor windings and contacts. we usually get a kit with the new brushes and it comes with a sanding cloth which looks like emery cloth. and the instructions say to Sand the contacts. im not doubting what you said, just wondering why? also a lowbuck way to remove carbon tracks is to rub a newer dollar bill on the contacts. its good if you get in a jam.-Robert
Electrical Contacts Hi Robert ; The reason why not sand contacts is : it leaves an irregular surface so there's arcing every time the switch closes after you've sanded the contacts ~ polishing them takes longer ( ! $ lost in the trade !) but leaves a better contact surface . Remember too that any 6 volt application takes almost twice the current that the same application in 12 volts uses so maintaining the best possible contact , really helps not only to operate the device but to keep it operating a longer time between service intervals too .,
Back Pain Charles : TAKE IT EASY ! I've had back pain since I was a pre teen , I now manage it pretty well but I kmnow how it goes . if you haven't allready , learn some different hamstring stretching excerises , practice with each different one until you find the one that give YOU relief . I do the one sitting on a flat surface , legs out in front of me ~ it works really well . We have a Chiropractor here who might chime in with some basic excersises for you to try . I had some medium back spasms Saturday when I was working so I knocked off ~ your health is the ONE thing you cannot replace so take good care of it . -Nate
Armature Cleaning OBTW : you're supposed to use commutator roll to clean those up when replacing brushes... It's different from sand paper or Crocus Cloth . I've polished a few commutators and so increased generator output @ lower RPM's and increased starter output @ lower current draw but it's a PIA I know .
Nate, I do do some streaches but this is something else going haywire. May have to have an mri to see if things are building in there. That is one of the reasons I paid to have the engine redone by someone other than myself. Thanks for all the help,
Back pain I feel your pain guys, indirectly i admit, but i feel it. My missus is now seeing a consultant about a couple of collapsed discs in her lower back causing trapped nerves(getting on my nerves too) prolly gonna need an op to sort it out, seems that all the super fitness and running tri-athlons aint so good for you after all I will just stick to humping old cast iron gearboxes and engine blocks around while having a smoke, at least i can still touch my toes
Touch Your Toes ! Yeah ; I ' touched ' the living hell out of my left foot (including it's toes) with a 235 back in the 1960's , I still walk with a limp..... Did the toes on my right foot a year or so later and then just for good measure , several times more in the 70's working on VW's and what not . Goota always keep walking to keep your legs in good shape as this eases / prevents heart issues later in life . My Mercedes buddy in Tenn. had SEVEN Lumbar Punctures in one day last week , he's a Veteran and finally got eh V.A. Dr. to get serious about his crippling back injuries sustained during Service to our Country.... here's hoping they can figure out what to operate on and get him back on his feet again , he like me , suffers back pain 24/7 , it's no fun
