Ok hope everyone has recovered from thanksgiving.....I have some questions 1st what are these 2 holes for(if nothing Im welding them up)right below tha corner of the window and why wre there brass nuts on the exhaust (broke one of the studs off)
I,m Only Guessin , But I,m Thinking The Holes might have been for a Cowl mounted Mirror , Like Was Used on some of the Older Farm Trucks . Coarse I Could be Wrong. As Far as The Brass Nuts on the Exhaust. If They Would have been Steel Nuts, (& You Twisted the stud off with Brass Nuts.) You More then Likely would have Broke the Manifold ear off . & Be looking for a new one. Just a Guess though. Best Bet is Soak Them Real good With Penetrating Lubricant. Double Nut the Stud. Use some Heat on the Ear itself . Back the Old studs out, & Install new ones. You can still Drill a Small Hole in the Broken stud. & Use an Easy out To Remove it. But Heating it First Would make it far Easier . Best of Luck. Bob
Springs The springs are overload springs, if you are not going to haul any thing heavy you won't need them. The two holes are for the outside mirror. I would suggest that you leave them there and install a mirror. Classic parts has the brackets and the mirrors. Gene
Here's a pic of an awesome '54 with mirrors This is what the 2 holes are for. There are 2 holes like that on the passenger side too. BTW, I'm the good looking guy on the left!
No just on the drivers side.....but I look on the door and there seems to have been alot of styles on the truck at one time(holes everywhere).... Also where do you look at the engine to see the code and find out what it is and if its the engine that was put in it
It's a sucker bet young man! You've got 2 holes for a passenger side mirror bracket, you just don't know it. Most of these trucks had a reinforced spot on the passenger side to drill your own holes if you wanted a passenger side mirror. If you ever pull the glove box off, look for a piece of metal welded on to the inside of the cowl which is a natural template to drill 2 holes to mount a bracket for the passenger side mirror.
Thanks for the info ill look next time im in the cab.... Ok this is saterday soooo My question is How in the world do you get the windshield wipers off...can seem to findthe eject button.....its really hard cause I have the window papered up......do I need to get the paper off
Lift the arm up so you can kid of see under the part that fits over the post. There is a little tab in line with the arm that (if I recall correctly) needs to have a small, flat blade screw driver used to pry it out to where the arm will just lift off. This works A LOT better if you don't wear bifocals!!!
Oh man are you in for it now. Probably one of the toughest things was removing the broken studs out of my exhaust manifold. Took over two weeks of soaking, torching, swearing, adult beverages for lubrication, more swearing, etc. Use Kroil for penetrant and heat the bejebus out of the manifold ears. Easy-outs did not work for me. The one stud that was broken flush with the manifold was the real bear to get out. I wound up grinding it flush with the manifold and ever so carefully center-punched and drilled through a very small hole dead in the center of the stud. Progressively larger holes were drilled and the original threads were chased out with a tap. Man, that was LUCKY. I really didn't expect the tap to chase through the original threads, but I got really lucky on that one. The other stud had some meat on it sticking out of the manifold and it took a LOT of heating, a lot of Kroil and a LOT of patience with a vise-grip pliers, but it came free. Use LOTS of Anti-seize lubricant when installing the new ones. Once a year, take them out, inspect, re-lubricate with anti-seize or replace as needed if worn. You don't want to be taking out a broken stud again, for sure. Oh yeah, I almost forgot. The stud that was broken flush with the manifold was actually broken in HALF inside the threads. I could not back it out because the one half that would move a little would hang up on the broken half inside the threads of the manifold ear. After drilling and tapping, it came out in TWO PIECES. What a B*TCH!!! Andy
Broken studs here isa trick I found out about to help remove broken studs find a bolt of the same diameter as the stud cut off the trheads so all you have is the shank left over /34 of an inch of shank or so, Find a welder and weld the bolt to whatever stud you have left ofer if hes isa good wleder he caneven weld to one broken off at the flange My welder using Tig welding a combination of the intense heat on the stud from welding and a new surface to wrench on should take the stud out after it cools This technique has never failed us Just dont rush the cooling process let it sit for a good long lunch or even dinner Bill
Studs with Nuts! Anybody mention that the BRASS nuts are/were used to prevent seizing in the first place.
Thanks for all the advice Im learning a ton and this is a forum of a wealth of info..... My truck didnt come with a carb(looked through my box of parts) engine was taken apart to the block when i bought it soooo..... I was wondering what make of carb was original on these trucks....Thanks need a make and model so I can buy another.....Also Im pulled in two directions on this engine.....do I pull it and rebuild it or do I try and rebuild it like it sits(pistons wont move for some reason right now)...... me and my father made a decision to restor the truck like it was in 54 and drive it.....trying to get it done by march and then get it painted when i get my tax return So now I have some direction....also I have to save up for a hood bird since mine had one on it......also A visor both$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Random Answeres O.K. , it's a TRUCK dag nabbit so leave the overload springs in place ! they're immensely useful when you finally decide to load it up with crap . The very best way to remove broken off exhaust manifold studs is to first weld a _nut_ onto the remaining little tiny nub of broken off stud , this requires a really good welder so ask him if he'll give you $350.00 for a new exhaust manifold when he does something else when you're not looking , before he touches your manifold . Nut all welded on now ? good , now have him weld a short bolt into the nut , then heat the whole bolt , nut and stud mess cherry red then quickly quench it cool with a water hose , if this is done correctly , the rapid cooling will contract the rusty threads free of the manifold and it'll begin to unscrew , be very gentle as the ears are easy to crack and break off , then it's junk , unrepairable junk . Don't waste any time repairing that old worn out engine ! take some good pictures of it so we can tell you what one it is then go find a near new , good running one for $250.00 ~ really , they exist as Hot Rodders yank them out then find they worthless , NO ONE will buy them , go look in the three year old classifieds , some here have gotten them for FREE as the owner just was happy to see it going back to work .
Osmo, Nate is right on about the overload springs but he didn't mention that they do not have any effect on ride or handling when the truck isn't loaded-- you will never know they are there. They only come into play when the regular springs droop due to weight in the truck so, if you are going to use that baby, you have nothing to lose and everything to gain by keepig them. Have fun.
Keep the holes and install a mirror. We never have enough mirrors on these old AD trucks. Back then all roads were only two lane. Today with multiple lanes you really need to be able to see what's in the lane beside you.
Overload springs My Dad would refer to them as "helper Springs " I had them on my 55.2 3800 series the PO pulled a tractor for diggin cess pools I dont think i ever hauled enough to use them though
You Guys Would be shocked if you ever saw how much I overloded every old Chevy pickup I've owned , God alone saved me from certain death when I worked my '46 3100 series..... These trucks may not be fast but they're workhorses sure as shootin'
