Anybody put on a new relocated oil filter. If so are you very happy and where do you buy one? Where worked out to be ideal location on inline 6. It looks like I have 1/2" NPT holes to mount it to on the engine block. Thanks Willard Green
Hey, Willard, I bought mine on E-bay, they go for around $20 needing a little rattle can magic. There is a guy who refurbishes them but he wants like $80. They are not always listed under Chevy, but also under various other titles. If you find them under a not too commen title they miss a lot of folks and you get them cheaper. Our host sells the decals that really make them look nice. You can mount them on the inner fender or the usual spot on the intake manifold. They mount with u-bolts. I had to tap and thread holes on my dual carb intake. Just make sure the rubber lines will get to your engine. Flashlight
Oil canister Hello Willard, if you interested look here: http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h242/wokri/?action=view¤t=lfilter.jpg Wolfgang
Oil Filter Willard ; it's important to know if this 261 you've got is full flow oil filtration or by-pass ~ best bet is to re-use the old filter you had before if you're not sure . Look in older posts about this as the 261 was designed to be set up either way and if you use a standard by-pass oil filter on a full flow engine , it'll sieze up pretty damnquick . Look in the 1959 Medium Duty Truch FSM , there's pictures of the filter , the lines and most important , the pin that might be in the by-pass position . if it is , I recommend leaving it there as you can shatter the cylinder block hammering away a that danged stuck pin .
workri's photo site shows the bypass type filter. It is usually mounted on the intake manifold with two u-bolts and a bracket. Here is a shot of a full flow filter that is usually mounted at the lower left rear of the block.
Here's another example of how a by-pass filter can be mounted. In this picture, you can see the U-bolts that Flashlight was talking about.
Spin On Filter Thanks Guys I meant to say I wanted the spin on kind that Evan pictured. But Nate poses the question full flow or bypass. I dont know but it is a 1962 engine 261ci. The inlet and outlet on the engine for the oil lines look like 1/2" NPT thread. I have a picture of the engine's filter mounted on the exhaust manifold. I have no idea if it is the proper one. This engine went ~6,000-miles showing 60-psi cold and hot. Engine was stopped, it did not lock up. The engine was sent to AGAP in Austin TX & should be back Friday. Thanks Willard Green
Willard - I like your heater control. I haven't seen one like that before. Where does the control cable end up in the cab?
Hot Water Valve That's a very common one , go to any FLAPS and ask to look in the " Buyer's Guide " for HVAC parts , they'll have this book but may not be aware they do .
Heater control It has a pull knob like the throttle & choke. It was there when I bought it. I got to go drill a gas well in PA. The truck should be out of shop by the time I get back. Will look for trademark on it on my return, if you want
It is Fram in exclent condition. I expect that newer spin-on's make a finer cut. They are a little cleaner to change & easy to buy across counter. After break-in I plan to use Royal Purple & a K&N filter. Offshore drilling rigs use Royal Purple by the 55-gal drum. It cost about 2 as much but must be cheaper in the long run. When they break downtime cost as much as 10,000$/hr. I replaced the gear oil & transmission oil in my farm truck and milage went from 10 or 11-mpg to 12-mpg. It runs only on premium gas. This is gonna pay for the gear oil quick enough to be free quickly
Royal Purple Lubricants My son uses this and I must say , it's impressive as he overspeeds every engine he drives , once he blew up the engine in his old 1968 VW Beetle racecar , when we were rallying near the Montery Race Track , he said : " screw it , it's knocking " and DROVE IT HOME to Pasadena ...... I now believe in Royal Purple Oils even though I cannot afford them .
