They say the Devil is in the details. That's for sure. I just received the chrome conduits for the taillight wires and I cannot figure out how to install them. No instructions... would have been written in Chinese anyway... I would have expected a Greenlee type connector at both ends. Something threaded with a locking nut, but noooooooo! How is the world to you secure this to the taillight housing? Also, if anyone has a picture of the tailpipe insulating plate installed? I would appreciate some help there as well. Greg
Hey Greg I hope this Pix helps, the conduit just slides over the rubber and that's it. Notice the clip bolted through the mounting bracket. Not much to it. I hope this helps....Big Tim
There will be a rounded end and a bell shaped end. Feed the wires through the conduit with the tail light out of the bracket. Now slip the rounded end through the bracket hole, the bell end will seat in the hole, bolt the tail light to bracket.
Greg, I don't have fancy chrome conduits like yours, mine are a more traditional braided fabric loom. Mine go through a grommet as they go into the taillight housing. As far as the "tailpipe insulating plate", I assume you're talking about the tailpipe heat shield. Position it at the point at which the tailpipe comes closest to the bottom of the bed, which should be where the tailpipe makes its upward bend to go above the differential. Attach it to the bottom of the bed, longest part going from the front to back, to basically "shield" the heat away from the wooden bed. Again, kudos on the build man, it looks awesome (But then again, you know that) Ken
Big Tim Your truck must be a '54 or '55.1. My taillights are the more rectangular ones on the 47-53s. They don't have that rubber boot in your picture. I can see how this conduit would work on your taillight, so I'm guessing our host was not specific about which models the chrome conduit would work on. Thanks anyway. Greg
Thanks Ken I am thinking these conduits are going back to CP. I have the fabric loom on the wires, so the grommet idea should work for me. I did like the look of the chrome, but I cannot see how these would work unless there was a rubber boot mounted to the back of the taillight. Greg
They sandwich between the tail light and the bracket. Push the blunt end through the hole your wires go through. the bell shape will stop itself from pulling through. The tail light will sandwich it between itself and the bracket. Don't think, just do....it will all make sense.
What HE Said ! That's it. Tim's taillights are from a Task Force , don't sweat it just give it a try . Once you find a ' Roundtuit ' you'll find the job is simple and looks good .
Duhhh!!!! I guess I am just being my usual dense self, but I still cannot figure this out. Does anyone have any photos of the conduit attached to the back of the taillight sold by our host? http://www.classicparts.com/1947-53-Taillamp-Assembly-Chrome-R-Plastic-Lens/productinfo/49-122/ With only two bolts on the taillight housing, trying to clamp the conduit between the housing and bracket is impossible to keep straight. It wants to tilt to one side or the other. That leaves an opening where the wires enter for water to get inside the housing. A rubber boot would really help, but I have never seen any listed for sale anywhere. Greg
If it leaves a gap when captured between the light housting and bracket you could trim the bell off, or use the other end, and then put a coating of windshield urethane where the conduit fits into the light bucket. This would let the conduit be removed by heating with a heat gun if the need arose or use panel bond and the conduit is part of the tail light forever. With either, when cured, you could tie a chain to the conduit and lift the truck off the ground if the conduit held. Just have a way to hold the conduit in place overnight.
Eureka!!! I finally discovered the source of my dysfunction. I had assumed this Taiwanese POS was made correctly. The small side was too big to thread through the front side of the taillight bracket. That's why I was so confused. I had to take a bastard file to the edge and cut it down enough to feed in through the bracket. It works, but not very elegantly. There is still nothing to hold the other end inside the frame rail, but I will try to fabricate a locking ring if I cannot find one the right size. Greg
If you get it through the bottom side of the bed, you can keep it in place with a hog ring on the end against the back side of bed wall.
Extra holes? You photo raises another question? Did you drill the hole in the rear stake pocket? I thought the conduit just went under the side panel through the hole in the frame rail. You installation definitely looks nicer and cleaner, but I don't think this is factory original. I don't have any holes in the side of the rear stake pocket. Greg
