Oil capacity of the 216 I-6?

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by PHATSPEED7X, May 9, 2010.

  1. PHATSPEED7X

    PHATSPEED7X Member

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    Just wondering how much oil this motor takes, and what weight too? Also my engine doesn't have a oil filter. Should I install a kit for one? Also wondering if a zinc additive to the oil is necessary?
     
  2. Volker

    Volker Member

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    what do you mean with how much, I fill up my new engine with 15W40 oil and i need approx. 5 litres. Because i would like my silent sleep i take plum adds after 30 gals into my tank.
    my mechanic - a specialist in oil - said to me the cheapest oil from today is better as the oil from the 40s. But he don't know what's the best oil for used engines. 15W40 or 20W50 are perfect for old engines.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2010
  3. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    Hey phatspeed,
    You might use the search button on top of page. We just had a discussion about oils, synthetics, zinc additives. Patrick recommends Only Valvoline VR1 disregard for off road use and ZDD additive 4 ozs. Diesal engine oils retain the zinc. The monied folks (californians) recommend Full Synthetic for zero engine wear. The 216 takes 5 quarts, original owners manual says 20 weight oil but in the VR1 I saw onlt 5-50w. Most folks have no problems with 10-30w. Next time I change I'll go to full synthetic. I don't know if we spoke about zinc in synthetics. There are also many links in the search mode for remote oil filter applications. They are on ebay for $20-80. They are easy to restore and our sponsor has original decals to finish them off nicely. Hope this helps.

    Flashlight
     
  4. PHATSPEED7X

    PHATSPEED7X Member

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    Ok that's what I needed to know. Thanks.
     
  5. Blueflame236

    Blueflame236 Member

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    Oil SAE 15W50 or 20W50

    Hey Dude

    Wonder if you use mineral , half synth. or fully synt. oil in your new renovated engine ?

    Martinius.
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    " The monied folks (californians) "

    Hey Flashlight ;

    Do you know any of these who are unmarried ? I could use one about now...

    :rolleyes:
     
  7. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    Nate,

    I would have thought SWMBO was a rich and famous Californian! I only know a 75 yo Dominatrix in Redding, I'm guessing she's into full Synthetics. Will that work fer' ya! Before you reply, no she's just an old friend!

    Flashlight
     
  8. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Thanx But ,

    I'll pass on your recycled girlfreind there .

    SWMBO , like most here , is just alother blue collar typ albiet retired now .

    Money's always tight , at least I'm not skipping any meals :p .
     
  9. Blue Bowtie

    Blue Bowtie Member

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    Good ole phailspeed.
    Good job, no phail in this thread.lol
     
  10. wokri

    wokri Member

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    what kind of oil a never ending story

    I would agree Volker, synthetic oil is good for new engines, the clearance of them is much smaller then of engines build and constructed in the 40ies. So a father of a pupil from me works in garage which renovate motors. He also said use the cheapest mineral oil (15W40) you can get, its the best you can do for your engine.
    I drive on my Volvo PV 444 20W50 because take I runny oil like 10W40 it leaks of all seals especially at the end of the crankshaft to the gear box.
    This is the Volvo a mean.
    Wolfgang
     

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  11. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    That's a nice Volvo! They are hard to find these days.

    Flashlight
     
  12. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    Very few, been wanting one for years. Only see them running and buyible when I'm broke see not one when I have some change lying around.
     
  13. wokri

    wokri Member

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    Volvo

    You find them in Sweden or Norway, ask Blueflame!
    Wolfgang
     
  14. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Oil & Old Volvos

    Where were you guys when we took almost a YEAR to sell off a 1957 P444 with decent original white paint . it came to us with bad brakes and a stuck valve , took a while to locate the head gasket then the job went fast and the car ran (and stopped !) great , it had current Ca. tags & title on black plates , no dents , not a speck or rust etc...

    Price ? $1,500 and NO ONE wanted it....

    As far as oil is concerned , in the US the Zinc was taken out as it fouls the catalytic converters , Diesel powered engines don't have this issue so any Diesel rated oil will work best in old tech engines .

    Thin oils are much better , they not only have better lubrication qualities but they get up out of the sump and into circulation faster during the critical initial startup plus , they transfer heat better . a win-win .

    The downside is : the creep a bit more and so drip a bit , will leak more in a worn engine ~ that old Volvo 1200 will stop leaking if you replace the main bearing shells and adjust the crankshaft end float within spec.

    Lastly , mineral oil is NOT for use in engines ! you need Dino or Synthetic oils ONLY ! .

    Mineral oils don't lubricate well & break down quickly in internal combustion engines :eek: .

    (BTW : just for fun , look up Smokey Unick's fast run up Pike's Peak in a brandy new Volvo P444S in 1957...)
     
  15. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

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    I use Mineral Oil for Constipation and coating metals to prevent rust. Helps a little with the rust but I ain't been stopped up for years. Please no anal jokes, Zig.

    Flashlight
     
  16. ccharr

    ccharr Member

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    OOHHhhhhh my, what a loss, now it does not matter I've got no xtra money at all for another vehicle.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2010
  17. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    a _JOKE_ I hope !

    As fiber is the way to go , not greasing up your innards .

    I am taking daily fiber now , have been for several years , you have to try it to believe it , it's too simple to work out so well .

    Contrary to what the Dr's say , it does matter what brand etc. .

    It'll make you feel *so* much better , you'll be amazed .

    Not to mention the other thing it helps with .
     

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