I called the local bone yard to see if perhaps they had a 12 volt generator laying around that I could use in my conversion from 6 to 12. He said he had a 14 volt, 30 amp generator. Will this work? I have no idea what it is off of, or if the pulley shaft is the same size as my 6, so I could swap out pulleys if need be. Thought I'd first see if this is okeydokey before going much further. He wants a whopping $20.00... Thanks, guys!
Never mind~ 14 volts would be how much it charges, 30 amps, how much accessories it can handle. I just need to find out if the shaft/pulley will work. No, I asked my dad. He is excited to help me breath life back into that L-O-N-G GMC
If you've got your old genny, just remove the pulley from it and use it if you need to. Shouldn't make a difference how long the shaft is as long as you can line up the pulleys up front.
Re:14 volt I remember some of the old timers using 8 volt tractor batteries in 6 volt systems and it didn't seem to cause any harm. This should work as long as your voltage regulator can handle it. Good luck with this conversion!
Most 12v alternators put out about 14.4 when really healthy. I would imagine that a 14v generator should be fine.
On any 12V charging system 14.9 volts would be the maximum amount of voltage you would want. If you can find a Gen. that puts out 14V then you are doing good.....Big Tim
GO For It ! For $20 you can take it apart and tinker it back to health , just be CAREFUL when first hooking it up and testing as there's TWO different types of field circuts , A & B ~ one you grould the field to produce full output and t'other you power the field to drive it to full output . Never , EVER rev. the engine a bunch when trying to figure it out as once it begins charing , it'll burn out in an eyeblink . have fun and learn a new thing , generators are not overly diffuclt . Oh yeah : 30 amperes is PLENTY .
Thanks, Guys! Thanks for the input! You generated some good "food for thought"! I guess I should find out how much a 12 volt regulator will cost and then find out what an alternator from an '89 V6 Camaro costs. I'm not sure of the difference, but if it is close to equal, I think I will go with the alternator... The good news? That 228 will be coming back to life real soon!
Remember : You shouldn't buy a voltage regulator until you know what circuit the generator is and no , the guy behind the couter at your FLAPS won't have a clue... Just buy the darned thing and test it and go from there , you'll have some fun learning .
Thanks, Nate~ While this would be the fun thing to do, I'm still strapped to a $$$ thing, but most importantly, a time thing. I found said alternator at a yard in Joplin. Car had 70g on it. I'll pick it up tomorrow on my way to an art opening. They want $30.00. Then it's just a matter of getting creative with mounting it. My gaskets from Jim Carter have yet to arrive... Just can't wait to get that long motor going!
Cheap Alternators Well , hell ~ if you're broke , just take one off the nearest junker you find.... Most since the late 1970's are internally regulated . Or , price out one @ Pep Bpys , Shuck's OReilly's etc. for a 1987 Cevy Camaro , that should be about $30 . Craigslist etc. always has folks breaking vehicles for parts...
Have replaced about a jillion generators with alternators and here is the easiest way I've found on the inline sixes--any brand. Put the generator pulley on the alternator if keeping the wide belt; it fits. Hold the alternator mounting ear against the back side of the front ear on the old gen bracket and see how far it needs to move forward to align. Drill a new hole in the bracket this same distance back from the existing bracket to block mounting hole. Cut off the rear ear from the gen bracket and save it. Weld an extension on the back of the old bracket and drill a hole in line with the rear mount hole in the block. Drill both holes from 5/16 to 3/8 in the old gen bracket ears. Use a piece of all thread to bolt the alt tight to the front ear so an inch is through the nut at the rear of the alt. Saw/grind/fit the old rear ear so when held tight against the bracket it will slide forward over the all thread sticking through the nut without binding. Remove rear nut and bolt the rear ear tight against the alt and weld. The arm with the adjustment slot will have to be reshaped to fit the fatter alt. If it takes more than 30 minutes total your paying to much attention to liquid refreshments.
I thought I'd check NAPA, since they are within walking distance. $94.00 for a three year warranty. (+ $50 something if I don't have an exact core to trade in.) Hence the need to start with a used one.
Thanks, Russ! If I can't get Evan's directions to work, I'll pm you for $ amount and get you my address. Thanks!
Thanks, Evan! I just copied this off and will give it a try. A picture is worth a thousand words, but I'll try to get a mental picture out of these thousand words.
Thanks, Russ! However~ I have my $30.00 alternator AND GASKET set (YEAAAAAA!) setting on my table right now! I know what I'm having for breakfast tomorrow!
Positive vs. negative ground Zig, refresh my memory. I know you rewired your truck in a prior life. I know that it was originally a positive ground vehicle. Will it a negative ground or positive ground? Question for the group. Can you put a negative ground late model alternator on a positive ground system, and if so, what does one need to do to accomplish that? Trying to keep Zig honest and learn! Bonus question! What was GM thinking when they decided to make GMC trucks positive ground and Chevy trucks negative ground?
No you can't put a negative ground alternator on a positive ground system but you can convert a positive ground system to negative ground. Follow this link to learn how and pay close attention to the part about the coil....... Big Tim http://www.spritespot.com/Downloads/Positive to Negative Ground Conversion.pdf
