Master Cylinder

Discussion in '1955-1959' started by 58fleetside, Sep 19, 2010.

  1. 58fleetside

    58fleetside Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Messages:
    176
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Noe that the engine runs, I am turning my attention to the brake system. (Go is no good without stop!) I do not like the single cylinder brake system from a safety point of view. What would you all recommend as far as a dual cylinder replacement for the master?
     
  2. Bobby 57

    Bobby 57 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2009
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    255
    Location:
    Long Beach Ca
    I don't know whats available outside of a disc brake conversion kit.Thats about $700.00 .or do your homework wnd go to a wrecking yard and configuration.I know Big Tim did that on one of his projects and was pleased with the results.I bought the kit and I'm very happy with the results.Look at Blueflame236 post on the 48 to 54 forum .I have pictures of my conversion posted there.Good luck.
    Bobby
     
  3. Valley_58

    Valley_58 Member

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    Aug 31, 2010
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    Another '58 in progress

    I'm right in the middle of restoring a 58 Apache short fleet, custom chrome, big back window, here in Chico, CA.

    Keeping the 235, 3tree, and rear end gearing, so not too concerned about brake capacity--won't be going that fast!

    Have rebuilt the master and wheel cylinders, replaced cap, lines and hoses, pads and hubs, and test runs are good.
     
  4. bigtimjamestown

    bigtimjamestown Member

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    Jan 11, 2010
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    683
    Location:
    Jamestown Ca.
    Thanks Bobby for remembering my post, I searched the archives and found it.....Big Tim :cool: I've had really good luck with a mid 70's GM 3/4 ton truck master. They have a bigger bore in them but the overall size is about the same. I've used this on front wheel disk brake setups and four wheel disk brake setups and the stopping power without the booster is very good. You don't need a proportioning valve for 4 wheel drum brakes. The only modification that had to be made to the master was to drill into the indentation in the piston about 3/8-1/2 of an inch so the push rod from the brake pedal doesn't fall out. Some are already drilled and some aren't. I think it;s the difference between power and non power brakes. You can modify your original mounting bracket to except the new master and make a push rod out of 3/8" round stock and use a aircraft rod end to bolt it to the pedal. It's actually very simple to do and if you know how to cut and weld you can do it for under a hundred bucks. I hope this helps...Big Tim
     
  5. NDtruck

    NDtruck Member

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    May 13, 2005
    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Valley City United States
    Another option..

    Not sure what your overall plans for the truck are, but if you are putting in some kind of power steering setup, then one braking option is a brake system that uses a hydraulic brake booster rather than a vacuum booster.

    I'm using the cylinder/booster from an '82 olds delta 88. A bracket isn't too hard to fabricate to put in the stock position also.
     

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