Some would call this a pile of junky parts. I call it my soon to be new 235 engine. Block no. 3769716; head no. 3836848.
Hey Ken. I'm going to redo it and eventually drop it into my '53...I just tore it apart today---it's my $100 investment.
Bob, it's my understanding that the "848" head is a higher compression head (8.25:1) than the early version (7.5:1).
Hey Bill, the block casting number will get you within a range of years. For example, Tony's block number, 3769716, shows to be a 235 produced from '58 thru '62. My truck has the same block number and it was taken out of a '62 chevy panel. Here's a link to a good website that has a lot of reference material on casting #'s. www.inliners.org Ken
Compression ratios Thanks Ken...now i'm curious and will have to do some digging when I get some time. Here is another site that has some HP ratings listed along with engine/head numbers. Mine is a '55 Y engine with the same head as Tony's. http://www.1954advance-design.com/Stovebolt-engine/casting-numbers.html Bob
Identification 235 Ci engine Need a hand to identify my engine. 235 engine 1955 passenger car. Number 3835813 Number 8836233 0470138T-55Y Thanks Martinius.
Engine ID Martinius, are you sure your head number isn't 3835913 and block number 3836233? Should be a '55 powerglide engine made in Tonawanda. Here's another site to look at. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm#56eng Bob
Some would call this a pile of junky parts. I call it my soon to be new 235 engine. Block no. 3769716; head no. 3836848. Do you know what the engine came out of? The reason I ask is that it looks to be the hydra-matic adapter plate in the background underneath the timing gear cover.
Numbers identification Hi Bob No i am not shore at all. It whas in the dark i wrote down the numbers , numbers looked vage and the engine whas mighty greasy. It came of an chevrolet 1955 Belair with a powerglide tranny, but i am shore it has 136 HP. You may be right and i wanna thank you for your help.
235 Engine & Head The ' 848 ' head is not only the highest CR 235 head but it also incorporates some casting mods that make it very crack resistant . I'm not clear on _why_ you took it all apart , from the 'puter photo the cam looks O.K. but unless you carefully marked and remembered which lifter goes into which hole , you now need to buy a whole set of new ones as mis - matching the used lifters in their bores , will run the cam flat very quickly . Re-ground lifters are CRAP and must never be used ! EVER . Don't be in any hurry to bore the block or grind the crank journals... Rebuilding the rods of course , take the time to balance them to zero grams and you'll be well pleased with the smoothness and increase in power . Take lotsa pictures and keep us posted .
Hey Nate, The eingine was a pig in a poke. I took it apart because I wasn't sure what the guts looked like. One of the pistons was in the up position and pretty rusty. I'll have the block and head magnafluxed this week. I'll keep you posted. Here's a couple of other photos. Thanks., Tony
Got It ! I didn't realize that , good on ya for doing it right then . Consider using a 261 cam then as it'll pep up that 235 well .
Yo, Toneee! OK, I admit it! I was a slave to the "Sopranos"! Best addiction I ever had! We've determined that you have a late model, full pressure 235. Word of caution! You MUST put a short shaft water pump on it if you're going to put it in your truck because if you don't, you won't have enough clearance between the fan and the radiator! In addition, you'll need to make sure that you match up the fan belt width because the harmonic balancer groove is bigger on the late model 235 than it is on the older 235's and 216's. Also, remember that your rotten-chester b carb on your 216 will not fit the intake manifold on your new 235. Sincerely, Tried 'em, cussed them, figured out that they didn't work, then did it right! Ken
Thanks Ken. I wondered about the water pump. I see Jim Carter has the short neck pumps. Which carb should I be looking for? Best, Tony ps. I mentioned in an earlier post that I bought this truck so I could restore it with my 13 year old son Sam. Here's Sam last Saturday when he and my friend Herb helped disassemble the engine. Sam is wondering "what in the world have I gotten myself into?"
I shortened the pump myself. I show it in the ssembly thread. I pressed the pulley mount down the shaft until the puley would line up with the crank pulley, then cut the rest off.
Carb issue ? Started with the Rochester B and BC wich did`nt work that well , i overhauled both later and put them out for sale. Did the same engine swap last year and came up with an Carter YF solution for the 235 CI. Fantastic carb. with a pot stove and aut. choke . Beware of the fact that you have to reuse your harmonic balancer as it is important for the right cooling of your truck. Using the shortpump you might have to tweak your fanblades a bit to get anough clearance. There is`nt really not much space there. Good luck Martinius.
