Hello. Anyone have any ideas on the easiest and most cost efficient way to lower a 1954 chevy? And what size wheels and tires do y'all think would look good underneath it? Thanks so much.
It all depends on what you expect from it. Cheapest: A little lowering, pull some springs from the spring pack, ride will be a little bumpier as you will be hitting the bumpstops. Really lowering... Flip the axle on top of spring (switch to open drive setup, modern axle) C notch the frame for clearance, order dropped front axle. More $: Popular switch to S10 frame, order mount kit for $1100 and bolt up, then order whatever s10 lowering parts you want, or mount the body low on the frame, sits slammed but has full suspension travel. Most $: do it right, buy a Fatman front susp. kit, $2000. Designed for your frame. Order with airbags, disc brakes, power steering. New rear axle, big c notch,raise bed floor.....or Tbird IRS. This sat my truck 3/4" off the ground, good ride and djustability.
Ol' chebby, what was the total cost for the last option you were talking about. New rear end sounds like a lot of $$$$$ and that comes with buying a new driveshaft. But I for sure dont want a bumpy ride. I really like the way the last option sounds.
Rear end from Pull A Part......$65. Fatman stage4 front end w/ air ride..$2400 (well worth it) You need various metal plates for re inforcing and boxing. You also need engine and trans. mounts, steering connections, driveshaft made up. Look at my posts and pic.s to see what I did on mine and the 50 I built.
Do this, Jim Meyar front end with tubular A arms Avo coil over shocks Mustang rack and a sway bar and four link suspension in the rear, 31x18.50x15 Mickeys in the rear and 235 60 15's in the front. This is as low as you can legally go. Bagging it would get you lower though ......Big Tim
No need to hack on frames & install fancy lowering equipment if all you want is a lower stance. Used this "bolt in" system on my '49 Burb . It is lowered 3" but still retains the good ride of a full stack of leaf springs. http://www.performanceonline.com/19...ENSION-KIT-MULTI-LEAF-SPRINGS-FRONT-and-REAR/
So many choices!!!! What to do what to do?!?! Dead zone: Is that what you did to your truck? If so I would love to see pics. I think thats really what I'm looking to do, just lower it a little and not have to worry about the ride quality and adding steering parts and a new drive shaft. I would love to have all the fancy stuff. But it's just so much $$$$$. Thanks again for all the help everybody. I really do appreciate it. Also I'm working on the pics for y'all.
So many problems with fixing all of the old stuff on this truck. I'm just thinking about starting over with a new frame, new engine, ext... Sounds so much easier
I went with 2" lowering blocks in the rear. The front is a whole different story. Nova subframe and some trick measuring got me about 4" there.
Thanks for the info. I still can't decide what to do. Maybe I'll just stop the rust, put some new tires on, and drive it like crazy.
Here is what I did!!! Probably not helpful for you but fun These guys are great here, they know so much it amazes me.
Hello again guys. Mr. Wolf thanks for the pics. I really think that's what I'm going to do. Mr. Nate I did the 12 volt conversion, replaced the front wheel cylinders. Rebuilt the master cylinder, replaced the engine gaskets, spark plugs, wires, oils, filters,transmission gaskets (and the damn thing is still leaking) rear end gaskets and oil, window regulators and I'm sure a bunch of other things that I can't remember off the top of my head. Today I was working on the rear cylinders. Next I'm buying new shoes front and rear, and going to see if I need new drums or not. Then new shocks, tires, put the door windows back in (new glass) and rebuild the stearing box. Then... GO BABY GO!! Or so I hope
Might want to peplace the brake lines, also... (metal and rubber) I did everything EXCEPT that. When I decided to tear my truck apart and repaint everything, I took the lines off. The line that wraps around the front of the truck started peeing a stream of brake fluid as I held it in my hand. The spot that gave up the ghost was where it went under the radiator. I am SO glad it didn't go before then! All the crud that was packed around it may have helped. Good luck with your list! BTW, don't try what Wolf did unless your truck is the MANLY GMC! Chevy trucks are just meant to look at, I guess. Haven't seen a Chevy with a load like Wolf's on here yet...
BTW, don't try what Wolf did unless your truck is the MANLY GMC! Chevy trucks are just meant to look at, I guess. Haven't seen a Chevy with a load like Wolf's on here yet...[/QUOTE] I didn't do anything that extreme,but a couple of years ago I went to the lumber yard to get some 8 ft. 2x4's. Of course they were out of them and sold me 10 fts for the same price. When I got to the barn,guess what? They were out of those and gave me 12 fts. Mucho fun with a 6 ft. bed
Zig, I've done the metal lines but I still need to do the rubber ones. Also my dad was telling me a story about how he went to the material yard and got a load of dirt aired up the rear shocks and hauled it home with no trouble. I wish I had a picture. I guess I can't prove it. Lol Federale, I'd like to see a picture of that. Lol
Brake WARNING ! DO NOT turn (machine) the brake drums ! . I took Bendix factory training and they were adamant about _not_ doing this unless either the brake pedal pulsates under your foot or it's severely bell mouthed and wearing the shoes edgeways . Your LIFE depends on good brakes ! .
Oh wow thanks Nate. I didn't know that. I'm glad I posted this, otherwise I would of never known. Thanks again.
