Hello, all. I'm Tim and I was fairly active on this board about seven years ago. Then I got married and priorities changed... Anyway I'm getting back to work on my 51 and have a question about my Carter YF's. I've picked up an Offenhauser dual pot intake and have 2 YF's for it. My only concern is I have a manual choke carb with the number 966S, and an auto choke carb with the number 2101S. I've heard that the carbs must match, but...both of these carbs are "replacement" carbs for 32-62 Chevy 6's and both are SAE size 3 carbs. Will they play nice together, or do I need to try to find another to have a perfectly matched pair? TIA for the help! Hopefully I will be able to return the favor soon.
I can't help, but welcome back, Tim! I understand the diversion~ Mine has been my 9 year old daughter. I could work on my truck, or I could spend time with my daughter. Somehow, my daughter wins out. As far as my truck, most of the past years have been spent looking and thinking. It's all good. What helps is hearing how others are doing. I hope you get your dual set up and running! (Zoom-Zoom!)
Re: I'm assuming these are progressive linkage. You'd only need one working choke but would have to disable the other one. Its up to you whether you want to use electric or manual.
Carter YF carbs ? Welcome back at the forum Tim. There is mechanicall issue that i`ll undrstand you are aware of wich is that one has an auto choke and the other is a manual choke carb. To get these carbs funcitioning together is only to try them out. Then placing the carb with the manual choke nearest ofcourse. I would recomment to use both with auto choke as they go nicely together wich i know from Tom Langdon Stovebolt . Give Tom a call as he is a flight enginer and knows his stuff with dual system carbs very wel. Or you ask Big Tim on this forum he knows very well to. Specify what engine you have and what kind of spesific intake/exhaust setup you have. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ Martinius.
Multi Carby Set Up WELCOME HOME TIM ! . Just make sure both carbys have the same jets , metering rods & floats & valves and you'll be fine ~ the Carter # are stamped into each and every part so it's a simple thing to lay both carby out on a towel separately and look closely , match 'em up , find Boo-Boos' like the bent metering rod I discovered in a Vari - Jet carby last week (one with a fresh " rebuilt" sticker on it no less ) , then assemble the two carbys taking the time to properly adjust both exactly the same in the metering rod adjustment and the float height , I'd suggest leaving the auto choke carby slacked off so it stays open even in the cold and use the manual choke one in the rear position so you can use the truck's original cable (easy to unstick rusted solid Bowden cables) as only _one_ carby will be needing any choke . Once they're installed and the engine is running , you *must* disconnect the connecting linkages so both carbys can operate separately freely , then adjust to dead one even , this can be done by listening to the hissing sound eminating from the open carby neck (air cleaners off , dig ?) or by using a Unisyn carby tool , duct tape two matching tubes to the air intake of each carby (I use soup cans with the top & bottom removed) and move the Unisyn back and forth , forth & back as you tweak the mixture screws until both carbys are drawing the exact same amount of air , then stop touching the mixture screws and gently adjust both idle stop screws bit by bit until the engine idling speed is where you like it ~ I like it 500 ~ 600 rpm . Now , re connect the throttle linkage and give it a whirl ~ you should easily be able to spin the tires , even on a 216 , be aware that this means you an also easily over drive the crappy Huck (rhymes with SUCK) brakes and break the fragile U-Joint too . It may not be obvious that each carby should have it's own return spring , at least when you're setting them up in the basic adjustment ~ soft , delicate springs , never use a stiff , strong spring on throttle linkages . Remember too that carby adjusting cannot possibly be done until the valves are perfectly adjusted and the breaker points to .016" or (better) 33° Dwell and the timing set spot on to ball on pointer and the spark plugs are squeaky clean and gapped to .035" , never , EVER trust them out of the box or that the last time you or your friend adjusted them correctly . I hope this helps , YOU CAN do this ! it looks hard but isn't - just print out this cheat sheet and take it to the truck , the first few times when you're anxious & nervous , it'll take a long time but trust your ears over the Unisyn and you'll get it and be the local Hot Rod hero .
@Zig-I know what you are saying. We have 2 kids at home still (4 & 9), so I'm going to get them to help me. I have some great memories of helping my dad and grandpa work on this same truck. @ Federale & BlueFlame236-No progressive linkage. Just a linkage that ties both carbs together. I will definitely only be using one choke. Probably just the manual one on the rear flange. @ Nate-aaaaahhhhh...the great advice I remember from years gone by... I think sometimes that people don't share the same definition of the word "rebuilt". I was actually thinking of completely removing the automatic choke assembly, butterfly and all. Just to be on the safe side. I think I will be trying to figuring a way to use the throttle cable on both carbs. Back when I ran a manual choke carb on the '51, I opened it immediately after starting and used the throttle to regulate the idle until it warmed up. I don't think I'll be trying to spin the tires. I don't want to have to replace the u-joint or rear end components soon. But, I am thinking that since my truck has Bendix brakes, my top speed should be unlimited... Thanks for all of the comments and making me feel welcome again.
Auto Choke Carby The deal is : if you gut the auto choke stuff out , it'll not make it run any better and will surly make it look a good deal worse . You are correct ~ once started , open the choke as soon as possible and use the foot feed to keep it running .
And ? Tim ; Did you ever get this sorted out ? . Because suspicious minds want to know...... . My foggy old ' mind ' tells me that the # 966S YF is the narrow flange for a 215 and the # 2101S is the wider flange for the 235 & 261 manifolds ~ can anyone say for sure ? .
Thanks for asking, Nate! I did get it sorted out. I wound up finding a second 2010S to match. The manifold is on and everything is fine...mostly. It runs great and the carbs seem to be matched pretty well. My only complaint is with the idle. I did as you suggested and installed one light spring for each carb. I also installed the original return spring. Both carbs are set with the idle screws turned completely out, and the thing still idles around 8-900 RPM's. So far, I just grin and bear it, but i would like to figure out a solution, if that is possible.
Dueling Carbys Remember Tim : When setting the idle and balancing them , you must disconnect them ~ if they're connected to each other , they cannot possibly be adjusted . Once you have it idling nice and slowly , smooth as silk , then you connect then and then you adjust the pedal linkage so when the pedal is on the mat , the throttle plates are *just* vertical .
