Would this be a good unit to put in my truck? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Gm-P...ac|Model:Firebird&hash=item2c65a3ca4d&vxp=mtr
Understood. I had just read at the beginning of the thread that you were considering S-10 and mustang combination.
I was but since this frame is in good shape. Im going to keep it and still do the Mustang II IFS or the Fatman. I want to get rid of the drums and go with disc on all corners, new lines and new master cylinder.
I have a question. After I clean up the Chassis, do I need to use POR15 or just Self Etching Primer or both?? Thanks
You could get all that but with less $$$ If I had enough money to drop down all at once, a mustang or fatman would have been a lovely thought. But I didn't/don't. I still wanted all that, so all I had to do was snag me a 1/2 ton axle. With that, you could go dropped spindles, dropped springs, or both. Then get to plates, rotors, lines, etc. at your own pace. I'm on a budget, apparently, but I think with this set up and (most importantly) the right tires, I'll have something that will be great to drive.
Ray, If you use POR15, you don't use the etching primer. I used a similar product, KBS Coatings "Rust Seal" paint. As I understand it, the creators of KBS originally worked for POR15. Their product is pretty easy to work with, and is much cheaper than the POR15. With POR15 and the KBS Coatings' Rust Seal, you begin with cleaning the metal to be painted, then paint right over the top of the surface without using primer. The paint chemically bonds to the steel itself, eliminating the use of a primer. If you check out my build thread, you can see a few photos of the prep, use, and finish of the KBS Coatings products. Hope this helps. Damon
Cool, thanks for the advice. Quick question, Is it correct that the only thing I need to do the Chevy front end is to get a hood and grill?
I just bought a 1/2 ton Chevy frame, cab, rear fenders, camaro rear end and hood for 300. All in good shape. Going to get tomorrow.
You're welcome! Not sure on the front end conversion, but it looks like you got a pretty decent lot of parts for a good price. I want to say there was something else that needed changed... like the radiator supports were different or something, but I'm not certain. Seems someone started a 'chopped top' with that cab, then lost steam on the project. Damon
Well I picked it up today. The guy gave me some extra parts he had laying around like the Chevy radiator cover and some other miscellaneous items. This helps me a lot because now I can work on this frame, do the IFS conversion on it, new brakes and not even have to mess with the GMC yet. Can someone tell me what that number on the frame mean?? One more question, how can I tell what year Camaro that rear end is from? Is it stamped somewhere? Did I say something wrong guys?? Seems like lately only few guys are willing to help.
I can't help you too much with your questions but the numbers painted on the frame looks like a date and a serial number. Maybe your parts truck is a 52 built on 5-11-52 and the other number is the serial number that was on the cab,,, Just an Idea. And good plan building a separate frame. I picked up a parts 53 chevy for cheap and I am building that frame so I can drive and enjoy my 50. Plus not having your truck all blown apart will save shop space. From what I hear alot of guys have done this. Good Luck
I wouldn't think that the factory would have painted the number on the frame rail like that, but I could be wrong. My guess is a previous owner painted that on there, or possibly an auction house or someone else trying to sell the truck. Sorry I can't help on the rear axle question. I'm sure there's a number cast in the tube or pumpkin somewhere. I'd do a google search on that and see what you come up with. One thing I forgot to mention about the KBS Coatings paint. The Rust Seal paint does not offer any UV protection. If exposed parts are left out in the sun, the paint will fade. KBS also offers a topcoat designed for use with their Rust Seal paint called Blacktop. It comes in various finishes: flat, semigloss, gloss... and is easy to use, like the base coat. I used it on most of the chassis parts for my project. Damon
About the letters and numbers on the frame I mean if anyone know what they stand for, I know the left one says 5/11/53. You might be right though. Anyway, I decided to keep the GMC and sit it on the 1/2 frame. Now Im kind of not sure what to do as far as suspension goes. I see that you can still lower the original stuff and upgrade brakes and such but how does that ride VS the IFS? Is this site always this quiet? When I signed on everyone wanted to help, now I can cant even get any help. I will be selling the 3/4 ton bed, side skirts soon.
Local guy quoted me $400 to sand blast and powder coat my frame. I think that's a great deal. What do you guys think?
Ray ~ As your truck is a Hot Rod , I can't be of much help , you didn't say anything wrong here . The #'s on the frame are GM frame part # and build date of that frame , not the actual truck . I don't get to see that often .
Ray, $400 sounds very reasonable to me to blast the frame and powder coat! As far as us deserting you on advice, there's a fine line between asking general questions and asking for specific info. A lot of us hesitate to answer something of a specific nature unless we have either done it or know of someone who has. I have never put a chevy front end on a GMC, so I hesitate to say it can be done. I do know that the sheet metal is different enough that it would require quite a bit of fab work to make it work. Be patient on your build and with our apparent lack of responses! Oft times, it give you time to think it through and gives you a warm, fuzzy feeling to have figured something out.
