Well getting there, too many things going on to get anything done...anyways tank area is done, setting up for rear sway bar install, I`ve looked at many threads, pics and webs devoted to sway bars....so it looks as if this install will be good to go, here`s a few pics with it tied into place.... final adjustment of end links will happen after I reinstall bed at ride height, I will also be changing rear springs to the Heavy Duty 4 inch drop springs from CPP.
Rear Sway Bar Looks good ! . I've been considering one for my '69 C/10 . The ones I saw from CPP were mounted in front of the axle and faced back . Is there a reason you installed it reverse ? . TIA ,
Well this swaybar I picked up at a flea market, cost 15 bucks, bran new, part number on it puts it on front of a 93 camaro/firebird 1 1/8th diameter so fitment was differant, but still doable, by installing this way it clears the frame, tank, frame/axle bumpers, also keeps it in a small tight package almost as if it was a factory install. Between the tank, sender, swaybar, endlinks and frame mounts, misc little parts I`m into this for $ 230...I`m just a tight oldman
Sweet ! I saw one at the Long Beach Swap for cheap but I didn't know if it had all the mounts & things so I passed on it , I'm not a very good Fabricator .
Well got one side done yesterday on the sway bar links, still have to do the final welding on them and clean them up a bit before paint....will do final adjustment (length ) on the links when the bed is back on. I also ordered the 4 inch drop heavy duty springs yesterday...I have five inch drop springs on there now..too soft for anybody that carries anything and I still use my truck as a truck.
The big brown truck dropped off my springs today, we had bs`d for a few minutes, so now I can move forward with the rear rebuild. CPP 4inch drop HD springs.
I`m using the one from Bob drake as seen here.. http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=C4952-9200 you can also get them at ..... http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ategory_id=63/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd249.htm...... slight differances in filler tube and layout are the only thing as how to execute your filler....Lakeroadster is using the second tank. note both tanks require frame mods, slight triming of lower frame rails, and crossmember removal and replacement. These are 18 gallon tanks, although I believe you can get the 16 gallon at Tanks Inc. I just happen to pick mine up when they had them on sale, it was 170 total with sender...The Drake tank has a 1.3/8 th filler tube, there is a one inch hole just at the right location for the electrical groment at the rear of the frame rail, I just opened it up enough to get the rubber gas hose thru it...and one for the vent tube.
Thank you for the information and links. Great useful information. I want to change to a rear tank but I'm running fuel injection and Tanksinc offers a fuel injection unit for the tank as well. I'll do LT1 swap soon.
I think that is the direction I`m headed as well... Back to the overhaul, had to order new shocks so I did all the measurements and want to use gas shocks which in my case will be Monroe PN-34904, thats wuth the shock extenders installed, which I stll have to do.
Just thought I would share this info for those that needed this...concerning shocks....... Thanks BOH......, been searching after I bought, Oh well...here`s some more surprising facts....although we knew that angle would lessen the damping effect, I just didnot think it would impact it that much...I may just relocate them altogether on down the road. Our shocks down to about 30 degrees but I will have to get the protractor level out to check.... I`m now considering moving them to the out side of the frame and flipping the lowers ( switch from side to side ) so they exit the rear and run up to the frame outside.... I think It would offer more part numbers and not nessarily more expensive shock as you would have more dampening effect with a cheaper shock. thoughts...? Update Just got thru checking mine are at 40 degees, actually closer to 42 degees as the suspension compresses its even more...man that is ugly....! Don`t think GM planned that out very well.. Angle of the Dangle...... this thru KYB 4x4 review site Mounting shocks at angles reduces the overall dampening effect of the shock. Reason being; the shock’s mechanisms will travel geometrically, less of a distance than that of the suspension system. Some vehicles (early model Land Cruisers, etc.) have their rear shocks mounted at about a 30-degree inward (inward = leaning toward the differential, not forward or aft-ward) angle, while others have their shocks mounted at a 20 degree angle or so forward and/or aft ward of the rear axle (e.g. Chevy, Jeep CJ’s, etc.). There are several reasons why this might be done. First, available space… regardless, if this is something you are going to do yourself, you’ll need to increase the static pressure of shock to mimic the shocks effectiveness of it being in a perpendicular location. Secondly, you can gain more suspension articulation than would normally be limited by the overall travel of the shock absorber if it were located perpendicular to that of mounting your shocks at an angle, if you don’t have room for a taller shock absorber. The charts here show the overall estimated reduced effectiveness of a raked shock absorber. However, these numbers should only be used as a rule of thumb as other factors such as the arc of the suspension cycle can factor in. Sinse I ordered my shocks and changed my mind as I was ordering went with the same shocks as lakeroadster monroe pn 32207 with relocators, but later one after the bed is back on I will look at moving shocks to the out side of the frame rail...
Rich, 60-62 trucks had the rear shocks mounted on the outside of the frame just as you are contemplating doing on your truck. No Limit makes a kit that emulates the earlier 60-62 series shock mount style. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=444925&highlight=Limit+63-72+Rear+Shock+Kit I waded into the thread back in Feb. of 2011, I like the upper mount, but the lower mount is too weak for a truck that actually hauls loads. It will bend and possibly fail, as designed. It would be easy enought to modify it though so the shock bolt is held similar to the way they did the top mount.
Thanks for the link John, thats sorta like I was describing, my issue is now I have the sway bar in that location, done but not installed or holes drilled in frame so i still have opportunity to move things around a little...By the way KYB does have a shorter shock that will work for us...PN 343144 if I`ve deciphered it right.... For those that want to decipher... http://www.kyb.com/technical/documen...onsSecured.pdf I have a plan..... think I`ve heard that before Shatner....
Shock Absobers This info is very good ! . What I did , as I not only work my truck but I tend to drive it way faster than is prudent in the Canyons , is : I used Bilstein HD Shocks ~ these are not cheap but I have yet to wear out a set on anything I've installed them on and this includes my Rally Cars . Using the Internet to shop , $eriou$ ca$h can be saved on these , just BE SURE to ask if they have them in stock before ordering .
I meant I will do a write up on an LT1 swap soon. Swap is almost done just need to button up some more stuff.
Well its almost done, just got to run the line and filter and set the bed one, just need to round up the muscle, all the young bucks.... Note the tank sits higher than my spare did...
Haven`t installed the bed as of yet, got side tracked on the bed sills, three of the pads on the bottom of the bed sills had fracturing cracks, and egged out holes, so the factory has six 1/8 th spot welds on each pad, I drilled them out and made new pads from 1/8 th inch flat stock, drilled my mounting holes and bolted them down on the frame, measured and welded the sills with eight spot welds to the side of the sills....funny how I keep finding stuff to do....
