We are removing the drip rails from a 65 short stepside since the only thing they seem to be good for is causing rust holes in the top. Trimmed off with a sawsall and tig welded all the way around the top which is a two day ordeal. Does anyone have a better/quicker way? I made a strip with a slight "V" in it that would overlap the roof and the top of the cab and was considering panel bonding it. No heat involved so warping would not be a factor but we would have to blend it in with filler instead of the lead being used with the welded joint. I have no idea what the vibration factor is on one of these tops but do know lead will soak up flexing and vibration almost forever but if this is not a factor the other way sure would be easier. Thank you; Evan
Drip Rail Rust I dislike no drip rails but you're doing the right thing Evan . GM kinda cheaped out by using low quality filler putty along those welds ~ I remember these trucks rusting the roofs off when three years old in New England .
The new seam sealers available today are easy to use and work great to seal those classic drip rails. I seem to have the hot rod gene and like to modify stuff too. But on the 60-66's I have yet to see shaved drip rails that look better than the originals, well at least in my opinion. I hope you prove me wrong. It's been my experience that drip rails work great, as drip rails. Between the window ventilators and the drip rails these trucks can be driven and occupied while parked with the windows down in light rain. That won't be the case with the drip rails shaved, unless you like to get wet.
Agreed ! My Son always complains because every truck I buy , gets a set of those door window vent shields ~ I grew up in wet weather country and I rarely close my windows , having these plus the drip rails is important to me . A Heavy Duty Mechanic @ work bought a nice old '73 ~ '87 Chevy 1/2 ton short bed step side from Water & Power Dept. before he retired and went to work on it ~ he stripped off the yellow paint and made it Alpine White , added AC rebuilt the engine and tranny , suspension etc. ~ he also shaved off the rain gutters and I asked him at the time if that was wise ~ he said it mattered most how it looked , not how it worked and sure enough any time it was washed or it rained , the door jambs got filthy and the carpets & seat got wet...... If it's no fun to drive , I don't care how good it looks .
If this and many of the others that we do were being used as trucks water would definitely be a factor but with a/c and fresh air heat/ventilation the windows will only be down to throw coins into the toll road baskets. No matter how nice a day when I'm driving in rush hour, which I avoid as much as possible, my window(s) will be down but when I look around not one other car in 100 or more will have the windows down. I believe they could seal them at the factory and no one would notice.
You and me both. It was in the low 70's today, drove home down I-25 in Colorado 75 mph with my windows down today. I didn't see one other vehicle with the windows down? I just noticed your location: Plano US... as in Plano Texas, right? I am guessing it's hot and humid 300 days a year? It's all good, lookin' forward to some progress photos.
Driving Trucks Yeah ; It was foggy @ 0-Dark:30 when I rolled out this morning but by the time I reached Lancaster it was warming up , I too like the windows down , even in my Lady's car that has AC . Now that I'm old and decrepit , I found I have to turn off my left hearing aid when the window is down else it'll amplify the wind noise terribly . Any day is a good day if I'm out far from home in my old truck.....
Job is bigger than what many would anticipate. The doors have way more curve on the top than the door opening does so the center 12" or so is out beyound the roof line and would scoop up any water draining off the top. Also the gap at the top of the door is way bigger than the sides and bottom gap so all of this will need re-contouring and filling to look decent. The ones that think the door weatherstrip will seal the gap are dreamers. When done the door top will be slightly recessed into the top like modern car/trucks are. The hours are piling up so I hope the owner really, really hated those drip rails.
I`m also against taking out the drip rail, use this and all your troubles gone away http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=257
Rolled the top of the door in till it's inside the roof line and worked the gap till it matches the sides and bottom. Glued a temporary weather strip to the top and half way down the front and rear of of the door pillars. Then fabbed a thin edged "pressure ridge" on the inside of the door lip to press into the weather strip across the top and about 15" down the sides. Modern cars/trucks do the same only it's the top of the door itself that presses into the seal. Hit with the 3000# pressure washer and no leaks---after SEVERAL pressure ridge re-contourings. Should be little wind noise or at least none one can hear over that from those *$&% vent windows. So far most seem to like the looks or they're just being nice since I'm next to their car everyday with all sorts and sizes of hammers.
Pictures?? In my mind I fear the end result will be a bit like what happened to Pricilla Presley when she started messing with the OEM configuration...
Will have to wait till we can roll it outside as the flash part of my camera gave up the ghost. We did a 66 that was loaded with options from the factory so will have something to compare the "Pricilla Factor" to. So far I kinda like the smooth one better. Pics of the 66 "with".
