Answers ! Yes i have all the information i need Paul. Excited to hear if the spacers from Bill work out well. Thanks a million. I am in Aswan Egypt now and will order the parts as soon i am back home on the farm again. Life is beautifull Martinius.
When you have friends like here on this site, Life IS beautiful! So here you go~ the original 16" wheels will work with the disc brake conversion *IF* you use 1/4" spacers! Thanks to my friend, Bill Hanlon, I now can say they work! What Bill sent me was just like the parts that came with this kit. (Just a little less shiny~) One of the pictures (Driver's side disc shows the outer ring that came with the kit. (just like what Bill sent) The only thing is, the shiny one was actually needed so you could attach the rotor to the old hub. (It sandwiches the old hub in place. What Bill sent, I simply reversed the face so the countersunk part for the three screws that replaced the rivets faced the screws I installed. Then I stuck the wheel on and tightened down some lug nuts and tadah~ Very. Happy. Camper!!!! Clearance is achieved! One of these shots shows all that beautiful slotted/drilled/vented disc being completely covered up~ Another shot shows that even with the spacers, the lug nuts turn out flush with the studs. That'll work! Thanks again, Bill! Couldn't be happier!!! Well, actually, I think this calls for an adult beverage, so I guess I "could" be happier~ Here's to yah!
Now to cut off the hubcap clips so I can grind these wheels down, prime and paint them. I assume simply installing a new valve stem for tubeless tires, greasing the inner rim and keeping inflated will take these wheels from tube type to tubeless. How else would you get Diamondback Tires to work~
Lookin' Good, Zig. I have the same master cylinder setup and it works well. I'm planning on using a squeeze bottle from under the truck when I need to add fluid, (which should be a very long time). Received the package in good shape. Thanks a bunch. Will keep you informed about progress.
Proportion valve ! Bill and Bilbo , did you installed any proportional valves on the setup to keep the pressure up on this arrangement and how much braking power difference is there with the newer dual setup compared to the single master cylinder setup ? I still have the Huck brakes and there not the best onces that where made really. As Norway is over the pound i need to know before ordering my parts. Thanks Martinius.
I was wondering the same thing, so I asked Russ (who has done a few of these...) He said you can get the brass preset type from NAPA or another kind that you can adjust. I believe the preset sounds the best.
Russ, I hope you don't mind me putting your advice here. This was taken from Russ' "How to install break lines" thread. I thought if I pasted his advice here also, it would be helpful. (And now I won't have to worry about where I read his "How To".) For the dual M/C setups, I used a bracket from Master Power, a 67-76 corvette M/C for a disc/disc setup. I used 2 12" lines to the check valves(2# for disc, 10# for drums) then basically the same for the front, but ran the rear line down the driver's side to the "T" at the rear. I don't know exactly which sizes I used. NAPA now has a handy dandy kiosk with all their brake lines hanging out in the showroom. Grab at least 2 of each size, 3or4 30", 2 "T" blocks, 4 unions, then take back anything you don't need. Measure the general length of line needed, then use the lines that closest fit. Thread the system together, then come back and tighten everything when it is all layed out. A nice tubing bender is useful, but most can be bent by hand or knee if you are careful not to overbend or kink the lines.
NAPA store! Paul So instaling the valves in front with 2 psi would be right here as i have drum brakes in the rear where it would be needing 10 psi. Tryed to find a match at NAPA using different keywords but the search machine only responds on excact matches to different cars years. If it is allreight with you i ll wait until you have bought yours hoping to get the right parts number from you. P.S Did find an adres at Ebay where they show the kit with 2 residual valves and one prop. valve regulator. Not really shore wich of the models would fit on stock brake lines ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Proportioning-Valve-With-Residual-Valve-Kit-/200903347857?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec6c5ce91&vxp=mtr Thanks Martinius.
You got it~ I have a NAPA store just a couple of blocks away. I plan on visiting them this coming weekend as they close at noon on Saturdays... I'll pick up some brake lines as well. The only thing else I will need are the clips to hold the break line to the frame. Believe me, I will let you know what I come up with, Martinius. It's great to finally be this far along!
That's how small this town is~ O'Really and Auto Zone are open, but NAPA throws the switch way early. (Unfortunately~) I need to take my water pump in and see if they can get me a replacement for my 228.
You could use a prop. valve for a disc/drum factory setup from NAPA, or most hotrod supp;iers have the brass block with the pressure brake switch installed. The link from blueflame is the adjustable prop. block. I works just as well, you can tinker with the bias.
Martinius and Paul, OK, I went and dug out my receipts... I bought my brake stuff from Engineered Components, INC. 860-872-7046, Engineered Components, Inc. - Your One Stop Brake Shop! I got the 67-72 Mustang dual Master Cylinder, (front disc/rear drum). Also got a 10 PSI Residual valve to install in the front brake line near the MC. The part nos are: EC-445 Mustang Master Cylinder $75.00, EC-655 10 PSI Residual Valve $25.00. I also bought the adapter for the dual MC, PN EC-420 $89.9. These are current prices, but if you wanna' go this route, I'd call and confirm these are all still the right part numbers. I expect that the Residual valve may be cheaper at a local parts store... Hope this is of some help. BTW, I have drum/drum. That's why the 10# residual valve for front. The MC has built-in residual for rear drum brakes as original on the Mustang. You can buy the "70 Mustang master cylinder. at local parts store for drum/disc, at about $35.00. I have since changed to front disc brakes, from our host, and removed the 10# residual valve for front brakes. The M.C. for Mustang has factory 2# residual built in!
Prop.valve & res.valves answers ! Bilbo , when i checked the site it seems that the partsnumbers are still the same. Thank you guys fore giving all the good information further. Paul i wait until you have been to the store buying the parts. Will right you a pm on the matter today. Martinius.
Me Two 6 lug 1959 I also purchase a kit from CCP and will be installing soon, This is needed? 10 and 2 lb Residual Brake Pressure Check Valve red and blue These Are required when the master Cylinder are mounted under the floor lower then the breaks, keeping the fluid constant. Also my stock rims will be modified to acept the large break cal. Great post, keep me motivated to move with mod
Hey Steve, what size rims are you using? Mine are the stock 16", and all it took to get them to work is a 1/4" spacer. No problems at all, now. (Thanks again, Bill!) That's probably a lot cheaper than modifying your rims. One way you could check is once you have your discs on, just put a small stack of washers that equal 1/4" on three of the lug studs, then put your wheel on and tighten it down. Spins? Golden! Good luck. This was a very simple upgrade!
Residual valves! Its maybe a dumb question but in what direction is the arrow pointing towards the callipper or towards the MC ? Martinius.
