I question the need for 2 residual pressure valves..... All Master cylinders have built-in resid. valves for either disc or drum brakes for each half (front or rear). Am I wrong on this? I used a MC for a 67 Mustang that would have had front disc and rear drum brakes. If I had front discs on my truck, I wouldn't even have needed the front residual valve that I used. If you put in an additional valve where one is not needed, No Harm, just added expense and tubing. You guys set me straight, or back me up?
The residual valve is needed because our master under the floor can put it under the level of the calipers. The residual valves keep mium pressure to the brakes, 2# to disc, 10# to drum. Tis keep the brake pads near the brake surface instead of letting all the fluid backflow into the master, resulting in much more pedal travel to get the brakes to work.
Yeah, I'm aware of what they are for, but all new cars have the residual valve built into the master cylinder. From back in the '70s when I did brake work I know those parts are inside the master cyl., for exactly the reasons you stated. This is why you buy, for example, a Corvette MC if you have disc/disc, and a Mustang MC if you have disc/drum. In my case, I have drum/drum and need a 10# resid. valve in the front brake line to keep the wheel cylinders from retracting all the way when I let off the brakes. That' why I'm suggesting that if we get the 'right' MC, we don't really need extra Residual pressure valves...
Disc Brakes The hubcap clips are riveter on , just shear the rivets . Yes , once you clean & paint these rims they'll work fine with tube lees typ tires . I'd like to see a picture of the caliper to wheel clearance ~ you've provided every thing but that .
You got it, Nate! It ain't much, but it's enough. Of course, it would look much nicer if the back side of the wheel was painted purdy so as to reflect the caliper~ but it isn't, YET!
As requested~ These are the two best pictures I got that maybe show the closeness of the fit. Obviously, my camera is not on par with Mike's... As a matter of fact, it's on its last leg.
I noticed that the same clearance is very tight on my chassis as well. But the wheels on it now are just for moving it around the garage... I'll be getting new ones when the time comes. Damon
Alright~ So I'm good at following directions and have no problem asking questions. Called our host to inquire about my dual master cylinder and running lines to disc/drum brakes. The guy I spoke with said that if I was using drum/drum, I just need to plumb it. Since I'm going disc/drum, it would need a proportioning valve. He had no idea about the residual valve part. He said they sold a proportioning valve, but it was for a 70 series pickup and that for my application, I would probably want to go with adjustable proportioning valves. There's that big of a difference between the weight of the trucks? The adjustable proportion valves are cheaper, I guess, but I assume this would require trial runs. (Forget the phrase, "trial and error"... THAT doesn't sound good at all.) Guess I'll read over these posts a bit more later and see what way I'll go~
I'm in the middle of documenting this install onthe 50 in the garage. Master Power has the prop. valve, it is based off an s10 design I was told. With disc/drum you need a proportioning valve so you don't lock up the rear wheels.
True story... You definitely need a proportioning valve for disc/drum applications. I have yet to install one on my truck; i didn?t get to it last summer, but once driving along a wet road, i came to an intersection and had to hit the brakes quit hard. Believe me, not funny, to find out, your truck bed is all of a sudden next to you. I probably will be using the adjustable one, since you can change the settings, when your truck is carrying some heavy loads, like Wolfy sometimes does
Not much for description, but I found this cheap valve... ? http://www.ecklersearlychevy.com/chevy-proportioning-valve-gm-style-1949-1954.html
Prop valve. Looks good fore a resonneble price. Now the res.valves have you found them allready ? Stig i am not shore what the outer and inner dia is of the stock brake lines do you have a measurement maybe ? Is it needed to expend the end of the brake line to make it fit the prop.valve or is it just a straight line install without modifications ? Martinius.
The front lines are 3/16 line from the prop. valve, the rear uses a large adapter to reduce to whatever line you are using, Master Power recommends 1/4 " to the rear, but 3/16 may suffice.
That cheap valve needs the mount to fasten it to as well. (See ol' chebby's "Installing a fat man front end") They also sell the bracket to mount it to, but I can only assume it won't fit on my master cylinder.
