Recent content by fielddad

Thought I had the problem fixed but drove it today and could not get it started after it sat for about 10 mins. Outside temp was 93. Had to let it set for over an hour before it would start. So back to the drawing board:mad:

FYI I just installed a speed adaptor that I ordered and it changes the ratio of the speedometer. I gave them the information of my what my speedometer was reading at 60 MPH and it works great for $65.

Yes it is, I painted the maroon when I was 15 in a high school ag shop. The Chevy has always been in the family since new. My grandfather sold it to me when I was in H.S. and I parked it from 1976 to 2011 in a garage then decided to get it back up and going again. I'm giving it to my sister this...

Yes Sir thank you for the direction on the exhaust, I hope when the weather warms back up we will be good to go. When people share their experiences with others much can be accomplished.

Update, I pulled the manifold and separated the exhaust from the intake and replaced the gasket with the solid one instead of the open one that allows heat to enter into the intake. I thought I had removed the damper flap when putting it back together a couple years ago but didn't so I freed it...

I used a 69-72 A body and 3.75 offset wheels it has a very nice fit. Had to cut off the link brackets and weld on perches for my OE leaf springs. This is what it looks like.

Well just tried another experiment, started it let get to operating temp, shut off tried to restart, no luck, poured small amount of fuel down the carb, heard a boiling sound but it did start after the second dose of gas down the carb. I think the intake is so hot it's boiling the fuel and vapor...

I did a comp. test before I installed the engine about 300 miles back everything was good then so I assume it still is. My fuel pressure is at 3.7 PSI when hot and the engine cranks like a pro cold and hot. I'm running a PG tran so can't pull off. It has showed no signs of overheating at any...

I actually moved the fuel line away from the valve cover to get it away from the heat, could be a issue I created. Never heard of that but I'm willing to try just about anything.

Yesterday when working on the new problem it spit fuel back through the top of the carb when it would not start hot without any throttle at all after an extended crank and then tried to run backwards after I let off the starter.

I removed the flap in the heat riser before I put it back together. But thanks for the suggestion. I have put everything back as it came from the factory and I'm beginning to think it could be flooding instead of starving for fuel when it will not start.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3yq8JOSvqN8/U5T8F0c5FwI/AAAAAAAAAFo/t_D6L6pLM_0/w1035-h583-no/Engine+2.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1N4eLHsfuOg/U5T8IIyy1JI/AAAAAAAAAFw/hmKi0DEyDMM/w1035-h583-no/Engine+1.jpg...

Yes the cap is vented, thanks for the suggestion, and since last post I have changed the plugs to a hotter heat range .060 (I have electronic ignition) and still no better. My next move is to lower the timing from 8-4 degrees just to see?? I filled the tank with premium fuel 92 oct. I rebuilt...

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have already done the closepin trick to no fix. I did rebuild the dist. to electronic ing. maybe should look at changing the plugs and widen the gap. I will also try holding the throttle instead of pumping it when hot. The fuel line has been moved a few inches...