Recent content by Haasman

The clearance between the end of the water pump and the radiator is less than an inch, so it seems impossible to attach the fan. Is there a step we are missing? Haasman

We are having a difficult time fitting the radiator and the fan into the restoration. The truck is a 1951 3100 with engine #FBA13701 that I believe is a 216. We are using the X radiator support. Sourced a correct radiator but there so little room for the radiator fan. Someone suggested using a...

The answer is yes, assembling the everything together as a unit is best. To be clear, both inner fenders and fenders were assembled and mounted to the body prior. So the "assembly" I am speaking of is the grill unit and the radiator lower air deflector (the one where the hand crank would fit...

Glad to say we are back at the '51 3100. Life can be so distracting sometimes LOL. The front end question: What is the best way to install the front end grill, the lower pan and pieces? We've been doing it a piece at a time: Fenders mounted w inners, then installed the radiator support. It...

totally agree about powder coating .... at the moment of deciding what to do with the old truck I met a new friend who insisted he blast it and coat it for me. Living in N. Calif I felt it was a good way to go.

Thanks Nate. Yes these grounds are so important. Your call out of ".... cab/frame, bed/frame, front fenders/core support / frame to make all the lights work better, the fuel gauge more accurate and the radio quieter..." is so right on. Aside from the odd bad connectors on the front...

Relocated it to the right of the ignition switch, under the lower dash

I was looking through manuals etc for how the cab and frame were originally connected on the 47-54 Chevy pickup and didn't find anything. Anyone point out the ground location(s)? Haasman

Does anyone know why the Heater/defroster diverter cable was originally located left of the steering wheel? Haasman

Happy to report it works. Really think park/running lights with head lights is good idea these days.

I did. Thank you for that. I also came across this method: jumper wire from tail light to park light terminals on the head light switch. How's this look to you?

.. and to have Bill Hanlon generously walk two newbie through wiring challenges was great. Thank you Bill.

Yes totally understand the flexibility of the two contacts. We decided to go the permanent way- we took the bad sockets out and directly wired the lights. Works great. Great feeling knowing the lights are good, and solid. Thanks for all the help! Crazy, it was the fricken bulb holders...

Both left and right park/turn signal sockets had the same problem: the 1157 bulb contacts float in their base. Frankly amazed to find this, really speaks to poor part quality. We had spent quite a bit of time (many, many hours) trying to figure out what was wrong with the front park/turn...

email sent, yes 1 for the shared park, 2 for each of the left n right. Curious, what voltages would you expect?