Okay, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed so help me out here. While dismanteling the old 1948 engine in my 1 ton pickup, I ran into these questions; 1. How is the oil tube to the rocker arm removed (see picture)? I got the nut loose but the tube wont budge. Don't want to break it! 2. #4 cylinder piston looks somewhat suspect to me (another pic)? There is a dimple recess about the size of a half dollar in the very center. The head for that cylinder doesn't look like it has been firing at all (yet another)? Some background: it ran but had a bad knock in it. I'll get the pistons out tomorrow and check the rods. 3. While taking out the head bolts, three or four in the front of the engine were torqued down prett good. The rest were were not? Perhaps they haven't been right since the head was rebuilt before I bought it? 4. The truck was made in November "K", the engine was made in October "J". It is my understanding that the 49's would have been on the production line by then. Would the 48's still be on the line as well? Perhaps the 1 tons didn't change over that early? Thanks, Rick
Engine Overhaul O.K. , it appears someone has been in there before as that's either a low compression piston or it's badly burned by ping and was re-used . You'll know when you clean the carbon off the crown . I'd say junk 'em all and replace . the original 216 pistons were made of cast iron BTW . That tiny oiling tube is prolly plugged , unless you're going to hot tank the block , don't mess with it further as it passes right through the cylinder block and comes out the other side , look in the shop manual for a good cutaway picture of it . Sometimes you can clean these out with stiff wire but more often they're plugged tighter than a bull in flytime and you'll need to run an external tube around the back of the block and up to the thoughtfully provided 1/4" NPT fitting in the center right side of the cylinder head . GM was no fools back then , they even sold an external oiling upgrade kit for this job . As you split the rods , remember to have cups/trays handy for each rod as there's shims between the rod cap and the rod.... If the crank is good (probably) you can have the rods converted to precision insert typ bearings . Keep up the reports , consider another typ of photo posting as each one takes 5 minutes to open . NOW is the time to stop and balance all the rods and pistons to zero grams and make that old 216 sing like fine music plus have noticably more power and last longer too....
Thanks Nate Well, I was looking for some small excuse to upgrade to a full pressure 235. I don't think I'll put any money into this engine. You helped with that decision. Thanks again, Rick
Engine Upgrade Good deal Rick ; If the cylinder head is uncracked , you can sell it for good money.... Now , go put a post up on the Task Force forums and then go look at all the 235's for sale in the last 5 years, most of them will still be available and much cheaper now if not FREE . Hang onto your old 216 until the truck is up and running again , you'll need the front engine plate for the mount along with maybe some other odds & ends .
Task Force Forums O.K. scroll down until you see the ' forum jump ' button and click on the drop down arrow , select the '55~'59 forum (that's "Task Force") and look in there , also in the '60 ~ '66 forums as the venerable 235 Cast Iron Wonder was used all the way into the 1962 model year and Hot Rodders are forever ripping them out to make garage queens , we (the real truckers ) know that the 6 Banger is a vastly better powerplant and so can snatch up their cast offs for cheap (often for FREE) and re-use them . DO put up a post asking for a good running 235 takout ~ quite often they'll give it away just to get rid of it . Look in the classifieds too and don't be shy about calling on a 5 year old ad ~ they're out there , in every town and hamlet all across the good old U.S. of A. .
