Yes, you need a ballast resistor if you are a running a 12 Volt ignition using points. Here's a great thread that should help: https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=12892&highlight=ballast+resistor
Ballasted Ignition No ! only is the coil is 1.6 ohms measured across the small connections and then only if you have a solenoid operated starter with a by pass circuit wired in . I'm surprised at John's answer here .
So now I am confused Nate??? Not trying to hijack 2rods thread, just trying to understand. My '65 C10 with a 350 V8, Accel Super Coil and points ignition has a ballast resistor (all was on it when I bought it)? Maybe it shouldn't have a ballast resistor? Help me out Nate, should I diagnose it by following the data below that this really knowledgeable guy stated on 02-26-2012?
Just So ~ *IF* you're running 12 volts . *IF* you have a bypass circuit *IF* the hot wire at the coil only gets 7 ~ 9 volts DC when they key is on , Then a resisted system is correct . GM's and Brand 'F' didn't use ballast resistors , they used a special calibrated resistance wire between the ignition switch and the bypass circuit connection on the starter solenoid . So , a ballast resistor isn't needed . Clear as mud now ? . Me , I converted my '69 C/10 to HEI and used the calibrated resistance wire to kick a cube relay next to the starter , that sends direct 12 volts from the + battery cable to the HEI system and makes for MUCH better running , faster starts hot or cold etc. , blah blah blah yakkity woof and so on . Hopefully this now makes some sort of sense ? .
When all else fails, look in the trash for the directions. According to Accel's documentation for Super Coil "For points applications, a 0.85 ohm ballast resistor is included". For best performance you'd need to remove any existing ballast resistor or resistance wire and install the supplied ballast resistor.
Looks like I better try find one...as I don't want to go down the electronic dizzy path if I can help it... Thanks guys
