Ok fellas, I know it is alot but I like to try and give all the info. I appreciate any help. I have a 1967 Chevy C-10. It has early 70 350 block. (383). I recently started driving the truck after about 2 years in rework. I replaced the Muncie 4 spd with a turbo 400, which required a different starter. All was good for about 3 weeks drive time (about 2 dozen starts) and then I started having problems. (before rework I had not starting problems) The only wiring that was messed with was a new one wire alt installed and motor was not touched. I was driving, made a stop came out and NO GOOD. Would not start. NOW, my problem. Turn the key on and all lights, radio and all work fine. Turn the key to the start position and nothing...the starter does not even try to kick over. (lights stay on and such, no expected drain as if bad battery) I tried to have my buddy jump me with his jeep and nothing changed. Got my 2004 Dodge (higher amp charging system) and the truck fired off with no hesitation what so ever. I took the truck in and had the battery tested (red top optima), the starter pulled off and tested and the charging system (just cause) tested. All show to be good. I even took a known good battery and put it in, same effect. I have made sure the purple wire gets power when I turn the ignition to start, it does. All connections are good clean, tight, and are new wires. It just seems the starting system needs more "juice" Any help PLEASE. I know the Chevy starting system is simple, but I cannot figure this one out. Thanks for your time. http://iserver.chevyduty.com/dcforum/User_files/43caebf7086caec3.jpg http://iserver.chevyduty.com/dcforum/User_files/43caec1a022cbc32.jpg Attachments: https://talk.classicparts.com/images/attachments/43caebf7086caec3.jpghttps://talk.classicparts.com/images/attachments/43caec1a022cbc32.jpg
Chevy starters are notorious for "heat sink" lockup of the solinoid. If you installed headers on that motor chances are good THAT is what is causing the problem. The truck starts fine when cold, but after being driven the starter locks until it's cooled down again. Two possible answers. The first is a starter heat shield sold by Summit, Jegs and others, for about $15. I used that on a Chevelle to cure the problem. The other is a high tourq mini-starter, ( more than $15 ! ). I used that on my panel truck. Some folks have also used a remote Ford starter soloind and replaced the Chevy starter solinoid. The object is to keep exhaust heat away from the solinoid. DVal
Thanks for the reply..Here is the latest.. You can see the lights dim just slightly...But not go out like if the battery was dead. As for the jumping it off... I tried NUMEROUS times with my buddy’s jeep and it never turned over. Tired with a jump box never turned over. As soon as I arced the solenoid it fired off. I took the starter off and took it in and it was fine. I even replaced the solenoid just cause. I do have block hugger headers but the problem is at any temperature even the first start of the day. The thing that has me is that every single time I hook up any truck that has a 120 amp or so charging system it fires right up...I have. Chased wires and all are good, clean and not grounded any where...Fuses are all good...I'm LOST
That could also be a bad battery. If the battery was old, then sat around off a charger while you worked on the truck, it could be too weak. Don't assume that the lights will go out when trying to crank it. Sometimes the battery is just weak enough to not want to turn the motor over. Try throwing the battery on a charger overnight. If it starts the next day, but repeats the original problem later, the battery should probably be replaced. AND, since you do have block huggers, pick up a starter heat shield and put it in the next time you are messing with the starter. DV
OK folks, I got it going. After pulling my hair out and a few 12 packs of beer. Here is what it was....After taking my starter in to the local parts store and having it tested...the brain child behind the counter sold me the wrong solenoid. I took my old one in and showed him what I had. He brought out the new one which was the long one (I needed the short one). I told him I was not sure of the difference. He said he was SURE that the only difference was that the new one was the "new" style and that it was a little more powerful. He said that as long as the block did not get in the way all would be good....long story short. I took the starter to a local and he got the right one. I got home put the starter back on and PRESTO...All is good....Thanks for the help...
