Has anyone ran into this, and if so, how did you resolve it? I am having an issue with the cab floor supports. If I don't use the rubber shims (1 each side) the floor lines up at the correct height. If I do use them it raises it almost half an inch at the outside edge where it meets the rocker panel. I know they were in place when it was taken apart. If you have read my earlier comments about my floor issues, I am wondering if the front of the cab (it is a panel truck) has somehow sagged about 1/2" lower than where it should be. The floor was rusted, broken, and pushed up around the cab mounts. How do I know where it should be? I can't find anything helpful in the assembly manual, but my mind locks up after reading half a page full of technical language. I can do anything, I'm just not great at anything. Do I need to raise the entire cab to reverse the sag, or can I just go without the rubber shims? I realize it will be metal on metal, but it is right where the cab mount bolt are, so I don't expect it to move very far. Any help would be appreciated.
I think that the two front support pads were just like one eighth inch or less. It is a very thin rubber like pad almost like a washer...rod
Yes, they are only 1/8" thick, but once they are in place, it pitches the support brace to end up raising the outside edge about 1/2". Maybe my transmission cover supports are not high enough to keep the center from tipping? I need to hold the inner end of the support pretty high to keep the other end from being above the Rocker panel. Does that make sense? I have put the mount bolt in and tightened it down, but it won't pull it down flush to the rocker panel top edge.
R-D, we're gonna need pictures. I don't think your going to want metal to metal contact. What do the second set of body mounts towards the rear look like? Does there appear to be any distortion in the floor sheet anywhere, all the way to the back? I can't remember if your engine is in or out, but a shot from the front back might help. I'm not real knowledgeable about panel trucks, but surely someone here is.
Picture of the problem would help. Are you calling the floor crossmembers supports? If so they are welded to the floor pan with nothing between the crossmember and floor pan. Where the outer end mounts to the frame bracket there is a thin pad. The inner end is welded to the lip around the transmission cover hole so the crossmember shouldn't flex at all or at least very little. Since the floor pan is welded to the rocker, which in turn is welded to the door pillar it's impossible for the floor to separate from the rocker. First picture shows (rusty) factory crossmembers welded to the floor pan, one on each side and in line with the floor shifter hole, and second shows floor welded to the rocker. Pictures would show if we are talking apples and oranges.
I won't be able to get pictures until later this week, possibly the weekend. The cross-members would be the correct item. I do understand how they weld to the rocker and on the backside of the floor and to the transmission cover supports. Perhaps the problem is that I am trying to put it together starting at the frame and building up. When I attach it to the rocker, it is angled forward towards the toe panel and I can not pull it back enough to line up with the transmission supports. I know...pictures
Before we start, I do have new rocker panels on order as the current ones are very thin and falling apart. 1st picture is looking forward. The screwdriver tip is pointing at the rubber shim under the floor support. I broke the top lip of the rocker panel loose to allow the support to fit in place. 2nd picture is just to show that the floor support is laying in the correct position. 3rd picture the screwdriver is pointing to the front mount of the support about half an inch from the rocker panel. If I attached it to the rocker, it would pull the end of the floor support, at the transmission brace, forward towards the engine. (see #6) 4th picture is looking from in front of the door pillar to show how much the floor support sticks up above the top edge of the rocker panel. 5th is the same as #4 only without the rubber shim under the floor support. 6th shows how the floor support moves if I attach it to the rocker panel.
May have solved my own problem. I loosely assembled everything by starting at the frame, then the rubber pad, laid the floor support down and the floor panel. inserted the cab mounting bolt and tightened it down while tugging and pulling to get everything to line up. Surprise it does. I lefty the transmission cover support bars out and inserted them from underneath slipping it in place with a big hammer. Then I started to tack it all in place. Will post pictures after the other side is finished. Thanks for the advice.
VERY Good ! I couldn't chime in before because I don't weld nor do body repair but , over the years of working on old vehicles I've often discovered that assembling as much as you can , serves as a basic alignment tool , you can bend / dress / weld from there . Keep us posted as I like learning by reading how you do this .
wrong again. I thought I had this thing figured out. The interior floor looks great, but I still have a big gap where the inner, and inner to outer cowl panels meet on the front side. I tried to highlight them, but probably shouldn't have used yellow. Any suggestions as to how to fix this? Or just let it go no worries? I do know the brace that mounts to the rocker panel and the front of the toe board with the spring for the high beam switch doesn't line up, but I could drill new mounting holes. I appreciate any input.
cab floor alignment You could ask 3100powerglide how to or ask for photos. He has the same car as you have! Martinius.
R-D, Don't use a hammer. You should be able to adjust the flanges on this part to fit with some large C-clamps and/or duck bill type pliers. Support the part as near to the weld as you can and gently adjust the flange. Bend, then check the fit, repeat untill you get it. The ones I used required two pie cuts and re-welding. The "relief" area was not perfect and nearly did not match the ribs on the kick panels. Also, the ribs on the kick panels should match the ribs on the doors precisely. Oh, Yeah, then you will have to adjust the outer flanges to match your outer cowl panels and your fenders. Kick panel needs to be tight and then plug weld it from the inside.
Didn't know the ribs need to match up on the doors. Now I will need to hang a door to check that after I go buy new C clamps. I am down to only one and it is falling apart, so I guess it was time. Thanks for the advice.
Thanks guys, figuring out how to get the clamps on was a challenge, but that did the trick. I'm sure the perfectionist would have something to say about it, but i'm happy.
