I am about to assemble a rebuilt 350 and i was wondering if anyone could give me like a checklist of things i need to make sure i do as i assemble it thanks
Shane, Trying to give you any real help on engine assembly in a forum like this is next to impossible. I recommend you look for books at Amazon.com and search for Chevy Engine Rebuilding. Then, read and learn. You will get more accurate information from a book whose accuracy has been verified. DVal
You know im not trying to be rude but you give some of the most vague, roundabout answers ive ever heard thats the second time youve done that. Its like your avoiding the question, you told me to look in my area for trucks that were like mine and all iwanted was a ballpark figure, now you tell me to go buy a book all i want is a few pointers not how to build a racecar. Thanks, Shane
I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP BUT I DONT REALLY HAVE THE TIME TO GO BUY A BOOK AND READ IT I WAS JUST LOOKING FOR A FEW TRICKS OF THE TRADE< OR POINTERS WHEN ASSEMBLING AN ENGINE IM A FIRST-TIMER THANKS Shane
Did you ever buy the book? He is right, there is no way to teach someone to assemble a SBC on a forum. Too many little details to explain here. You should buy "How to rebuild your small block chevy" and memorize it front to back. I did this when I was 10 years old and I have been referring back to that same book ever since. I can see my fingerprints from when I was 15 and it is many years later. You will enjoy the reading (& pics) if you enjoy the subject. If you have specific questions I would be glad to answer them. For a cam get a 260H from CompCams and you'll be happy. For a little more of a rough idle get the 268H.
" but you give some of the most vague, roundabout answers ive ever heard " Sorry you feel that way. Maybe if the questions were not vauge and roundabout, the answers might be clearer. Now I'm not trying to be rude. I'm trying to give you sound advice. I don't know where you live so me sitting in California does not make me an authority on a vehicles worth where you are. YOU need to figure it out. Rebuilding a motor is not something a first timer should tackle. You will wind up with a motor that will either never run, or cost significantly more than it should. If you have NEVER done that type of motor repair, then have someone else do it. To think that you can learn something that mechanics take a lifetime perfecting in a forum, simply makes no sense. I hope this answer is not too vauge for you. Best of luck. DV
Well if i let someone else do it i will never learn, there has to be a first time for everything. Im going to build the motor and it will run, and i dont want your advice. And i hope you made yourself feel good being a ##### to a 16 year old guy who just wanted some pointers. but other than that thanks for all the info on books.
hey shane i am a mechanic in the Air Force and i am not saying i am the worlds best mechanic but it will be easer if you would read the material that was given to you. for your first time on anything is going to be harder than it seems. for restoring this truck of yours don't rush into it. take your time and it will turn out like you want it to. curtis.
Thanks for the advice, i got frustrated before with him. Ive already read a lot of stuff since and will continue to as i build the motor and finish my truck. Thanks, Shane
Shane, If your truely building from scratch (short block too) something that i remember from my first build was I didn't pay attention to the piston rings when i installed them and on two pistons i had th gaps lined up instead of staggered and that motor smoked like a coal train till i tore it back down. Make sure your piston rings are staggered!!! keep your gaps on opposite sides of the pistons so you don't get oil blow by. Good luck on your build. Oddjob
Go to Amazon.com and do a search for small block chevy. Look for the book How To Build A Small Block Chevy on A Budget. It has all the tips and things to look for. Most importantly it contains all your clearances, gaps, torques and torque sequences. If you don't assemble it right you might as well throw your money in the toilet.
I bought that same book about 5 years ago its money well spent think it was like $20 dollars lots of good information in that book.
Well you have to have a bit of a nack for things like this, so the books are the best thing to get a first time bulid. Can be easy for some one some times for sure . Just make sure you do all the proper stuff that you do not have tool for buy a pro or shop that does them. Then go step bye step as the pros do they just do so meany, it looks easier when they do it. They still do the steps too. Any if you have a few questions I sure some one will try to help. I would all so expect that most that try and do not do the steps right will fail so expect for the all the money you spent blowing up for the bad side of things. Retry if do do not mind if it goes good or bad.I like my first motor I did still have it over 15yr beat it up on the track.
Check with your high school auto shop teacher if you have that program, assuiming at 16 your in school.
Having built many motors over the past 40 plus years, I would have to agree that a good assembly manual is really key here. That said, here's a few suggestions that I have found to be very helpful: 1. Start with everything really clean. I mean as close to perfect and new as you can possibly get it. Remember if you use harsh solvents, make sure you have lots of good ventilation. 2. Keep you hands clean as well. I use an orange pumice from Costco - comes in a two pack of half gallons with a cool dispensing pump. 3. Paint everything you can after it's all clean. Use a high quality engine paint. Krylon K02115 is a perfect match for Chevy Orange, cost $5-7.00 per can. Get a few cans and slow following the directions and use two coats. 4. You didn't say what you're buying, what your re-using and what you're having machined. I'll assume that you'll have some machine work done on the crank, rods and perhaps the block (bored or at least honed) and heads (valves and springs). The exterior of the block and heads should be cleaned and painted as per th above. Any of the internal components should be lightly oiled and stored in plastic bags until you're ready to assemble. Small parts can go in a heavy duty baggie and put a squirt of WD-40 inside before sealing. 5. Get an engine stand. If you can't borrow one, buy one. Northern Tool http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200305217.htm has one for $69.00. You may be able to find one at your local auto parts store for a similar price (maybe less if you do not have to pay shipping). It will be money well spent - believe me. 6. Buy a torque wrench. Get a 1/2 inch drive 0-150 ft pounds click type. Sears is a good source for reasonable quality and price. I have a Craftsman torque wrench that's 35 year's old and still works fine. Remember to reset to zero after each use and keep it clean. 7. Buy (or borrow) a piston ring compressor that will accommodate your 4 inch pistons. You can not insert pistons properly without this device. Again,Sears is reasonable for a hobby builder. 8. Bolt your block to the engine stand. Use all four bolts and snug the block tight to the stand. Make sure the stand allows you to rotate the block easily. Sometimes a small dab of grease on the yoke of the stand is a good idea. 9. Get lots of clean, lint free rags. I like old T-shirts but the absolute best is old cloth diapers (if you can find them!). Don't let them get too dirty as you work and have a metal garbage can with a lid to toss the in when they get dirty. Don't throw them in the trash - they can go the laundromat and be washed with a good shot of Tide! 10. Start with the engine upside down. Wipe every thing down real good and begin your assembly. If you've not got an assemble book by now, go to the web and get information on bearing clearances for our mains, rods and the thrust bearing. Go slow with the lower half of the crank bearings and make sure they are installed as per the instructions. Coat the bearing surfaces with assembly lube. Don't try and make your own or use a buddy's concoction. Buy real assembly lube and follow the directions. 11. Hopefully, when you had you crank work done, the machinist supplied some plastigauge. If not - stop and go get some. Make sure it's the correct size and if you're not familiar with how to use it, ask the machinist how to use it and how to read it. 12. Set your crank and install the main caps. Hopefully, you matched the caps to their original seat and had them resized when the crank was done so that the compressed bearings will cradle the crankshaft perfectly centered with proper clearances. Use the plastiguage here and check each bearing surface. It's important to torque sequentially and in stages as per the assembly instructions. 13. Once the crank has been installed and the clearances verified as proper, the crank should spin nicely. There will be resistance, but it should rotate as smooth as silk. If not - STOP AND FIND OUT WHY. This is a critical step. If there's a problem with the crank, the entire motor will trash real quick (trust me on this one!!). Roll the block over to face up for the next step. 14. I'm assuming that you're not using full floating piston pins. As such, have your machinist press the pins into the rods. Hopefully you will also have the machinist size the rods and match the caps. I like to lay out the piston and rod assemblies out in order and then ring them. Before you start, take a ring and carefully insert into one of the cylinder bores. Using a piston, carefully square the ring in the bore about 1 inch from the top. Measure the end gap on the ring and compare with specifications. If the gap is too small, you will seize. If the gap is too big, you'll smoke like a Banshee and suffer poor compression. Too small is fixable with a piston ring grinder. Too big means you need to bore and go oversize. Assuming all is within tolerances, you can install the pistons. Let me know if this is what you're looking for and we can proceed!! Regards
Glen71, just wanted to give you kudos for your message and willingness to take the time to lend it out.
Thanks - after posting it, I realized that the thread was an old one.. Oh well, it was a good exercise and perhaps had a plum or two for a serious reader. Regards All
