Sid, in your first post, you say it appears bent. Can you describe that to us? Any evidence of collision? Massive overloading? These trucks were almost all abused, but, in the post war rush for pickups, getting trucks out the door was the priority, so tolerances were not held very well. You should have a lot of frame flange distortion if the thing is that far off. Also, any corrosion between the X-members and frame rails that would swell the rail out? That would probably pull or shear the rivet. Also, measure diagonally from point to point and see what you get. Pictures? I learned along time ago, there are no perfect engines or motor vehicles on this earth.
Looking back, I may have neglected to mention that my frame is completely bare. Only the front and rear cross members remain. All holes have been filled other than the ones for the front and rear bumper brackets, cab and running board brackets and front (1 1/2") shackle mount holes. There is also a hole on each side that is close to where the stock front axle center line was. Both front and rear suspension has been removed and the frame is sitting up on saw horses. This may explain why I need some specific dimensions as all the brackets have been removed that are used to measure and square the frame. HotRod. Thanks for help. I appreciate it. Some more questions. When you measured your frame and compared them to the measurements I listed, did you measure them at the bolts on each running board bracket that faced the front of the frame? Would you be able to measure down from the top if the frame to either the top, center or bottom of the 1 1/2" front shackle hole? Basically put a 4' level or long straight edge on the top of the frame so it extends out over the hole an measure down. I have a drawing but can't make out the dimension or if it goes to top, center or bottom of the hole. Thanks for the help.
The frame had no signs of damage. No kinks, crimples or anything. I thought the same thing. Should show some sort of signs that it had been hit or whatever. I did all my cab work while it was still bolted to the frame as it looked good with no rust. Wasn't until I pulled the cab off and put a tape measure on it that I saw the problem. So as of now, the only thing I think I can do is locate the front cross member at 25 1/2" (at 25" from factory) and set the rear where it starts to taper in at 46" and go from there. The passenger side rail has an outward bow to it and the rear of the wheel arch is shifted to the passenger side. Funny thing is, the drivers frame behind the wheel arch is fine. Gonna have to get a string line out down the center and see what's going on.
Frame Chart This should give you the picture and specs you're looking for : http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0202.htm I keep telling you alls , these things were slapped to - gether as fast as possible as they were all sold before being made and Generous Motors Corporation simply didn't give a rat's patoot about any sort of build quality ~ they were so well designed they were still the very best trucks available in spite of slap-dash assembly methods . I applaud you for taking the time to make it " Just So " as you're going to be rewarded with a truck that glides on down the road .
Thanks Nate. I have seen that link and am setting the front and rear of my frame to those specs. My front is 1/2" too narrow. I'm starting to see that these trucks had huge tolerances. Want my frame to be right so the sheet metal fits right.
Good Job ! Sid (?) ; You'll never be sorry you took the time to do a thing right . To - day I began digging into my three i6 engines , planning to build one 292 for my C/10 then a 250 to sell (or just because I like overhauling vintage engines) . Anyone here I can pick the brains of about a '77 292 ? . it's slightly different than my '66 292 .
