Wheels sticking to rotors

Discussion in '1960-1966' started by Ratnest, Nov 6, 2014.

  1. Ratnest

    Ratnest Member

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    During the build of Ratnest, I used the rear end and front suspension from an 89 Suburban. This gave me 5 lugs all around and disc brakes up front. All brake parts front and year are new from Oreillys. Each time I remove the front wheels (powder coated chev rallies) I have a hell of a time because they are stuck tight to the rotors. What's causing this and how can I stop this from happening again. I actually have to use a dead-blow hammer and whip on the inside of the tires to get the wheels off:mad:
     
  2. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    This is an indication that you have a really good fit between the wheel inside diameter and the locating hub on the front rotor and the rear axle.

    I had the same issue on my daily driver a while back. Take a Scotchbrite pad and remove the surface rust from the hub that locates the center of the wheel. Then put some Never Seize on the hub where it contacts the inside diameter of the wheel. This will prevent surface rust from forming on the steel hub.

    Worked for me.
     
  3. 50 Chevy LS3

    50 Chevy LS3 Member

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    What Lakeroadster said... The problem your having can be HORRIBLE on semi-trucks with hub-piloted wheels. Wasn't a problem on the old stud-piloted wheels, of course there were plenty of other things to cause problems back then.
    Plus, I think powdercoating adds a thicker finish, than paint, possibly making a tighter fit?
    Also, since powdercoat is heat cured, is it becoming soft with the heat of disc brakes only to become a sort of glue?
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2014
  4. Ratnest

    Ratnest Member

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    Thanks guys for your advice.

    Today's efforts to remove the front wheels was more difficult than ever before. With hammering, kicking and cussing, I finally broke the bonds. Close examination of the wheels and rotors confirmed that it is a tight fit AND that the powder coating is aggravating the problem. I cleaned the powder coating off the contact points on the wheels and rotors. I will also use anti-seize when I put it all back together.:D
     
  5. LostMy65

    LostMy65 Member

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    Any updates?
     
  6. Ratnest

    Ratnest Member

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    Yes...things are much better after removing powder coating material from contact surfaces on the rotors and wheels, AND coating those areas with anti-seize. The fitment is still tight though and I've added a rubber hammer to my tire changing tools:)
     

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