Who would know if a 1954 235 engine will accept a harmonic balancer for the other years? And the balancer bolt on or is it a pressed on the crankshaft.
It is pressed on. I have used a 61 or 62 car balancer on an old pickup because many of these came with dual pulleys so I guess they are pretty much the same. It seems in my foggy brain that sometimes there was fan interference when using the dual pulley unit. Not a problem that can't be solved. If the hub is not drilled and tapped for a puller---do so as it will mess it up pulling on the outer rim. I like to drill and tap the crank snout when adding extra pulleys and accessories.
Thanks Evan, Mine will move about a 1/4 inch and there is one very nasty noise in the engine compartment right now. I thought it was the water pump but not, then chased the noise to the center of the oil pan, then had oil pump replace but not. Took the belt off, the noise is still there. However throttle up the noise goes away, but put the belts back on and the noise is does not go away but is loader. Charles
You might not need to replace the balancer Charles. I have had the same thing happen on a few trucks & the cause of the slop & noise was that the keyway pin on the end of the crankshaft was worn. If you are lucky.... a simple keyway pin replacement will fix it.
Think outside the box...oil pan Hey, you might check and recheck your front mount...mine has been giving me the heebeejeebees...anyway I hope that is what it is...I did have a little shine on the inside of the pulley thingy. It has been giving me that sound off and on now since I tried to fry some eggs on the valve cover, but instead just fried my head and a few other things that did not like the heat. I recently replaced a bolt there....have also tried to stick a huge screw driver from the front to bend that dumb(too wide) oil diverter that sits on top of the whole shebang(?). So, I'll keep working at it...but of course I try hard to sing louder to the heart beat of America...oh, I mean the tappets...oh, that's the same thing! Well, check it! Rod
Thanks Joe, That balancer is going to have to be fixed no matter what with the slack it has and from what you are telling me it most likely is the noise . No shop around here knew what to think about it . Then it dawned on me all those old guys which us to go to that could walk by an engine and tell you what was wrong with it are mostly all gone and I'm the old guy that does not know what to look for or tell what a sound is so it can be fixed..
It should not move at all since it's supposed to be a very tight press fit. Hopefully all the wear is in the balancer and not the crank snout. You will need a new (good) balancer AND bolt it on for any chance of being tight.
Thanks Evan, I've started the search for something new for it, I have the local Napa Dealer looking also. Charles
Fleshing out what Joe said , when the belts were off , didja try grabbing the edge of the damper and seeing if it twists / wriggles ? even a tiny bit is a serious fail . The Woodruff key should be a standard size , if it's bad .
No, but I can retake the belt off tomorrow, the one on the truck currently moves up to a 1/4 inch, or that is what it looked like when the mechanic showed me it would move.
What moved 1/4" ?? . The belt flexed that much or the damper / pulley wobbled that much when you pulled / pushed it ? .
Balancer moved about that much. I'm taking it into be worked on tomorrow morning. I had the balancer from the 58 engine I got from Allen who lives in Payson, Az. . Will see what happens then, Doorman also sells new ones and there is a High$$$ one on the market which is 365.00 alone. But for now it will be the 58's being put on.
These guys can rebuild your existing one .......& they have rebuilt units on the shelf.... http://www.damperdudes.net//index.php?cPath=29
Damper Repair That's who I was talking about , good work and rapid turn around time . They (he ?) re vulcanizes them so it's just as new again . I had an unobtanium Nash Airflyte damper re done a few years ago , it's still in daily driver use and no problems .
Thanks Joe for the link to them. I have the truck right now being worked on, sure hope this helps the issue.
Thanks Nate, I sure hope this does it, if it does not the truck gets to sit in the desert for awhile while I work on the green 52.
That oughta be it Charles . Some years ago my Son bought a rich guys' Mazda Miata , the damper had come loose on the crank and he'd had the entire engine rebuilt , replacing the damaged crankshaft , when it did the same thing two years later , he junked it , my Son looked at it and accepted the price of $1,000 one owner , shiny black paint , ice cold AC etc.) , I happened by that afternoon and the Shop Owner and Mechanics all asked me what I though of this folly ~ I crawled underneath it and looked , said ' It looks like a deal to me ~ I'd just weld the damper to the nose of the crank and call it a day " . They all fell out and said Jr. had told them the same thing ~ , it'd NEVER work etc. . He welded it and added a supercharger then raced it for several years , constantly improving it until it was a real beast , the damper never caused any more problems and was still going strong when he sold it .
Nate, I might just tack the rebuilt one on if this gets to much more spendy. Saga continues, rebuild unit is on the way, once the old balancer was off I had the mechanic reinstall it with a new key hoping but it still has the noise, the dampner is still louse but not as much. While the old dampner is off I am having the mechanic take off the timing cover and make sure all is okay under the cover. Have a great Christmas, Charles
Loose Damper Well Charles ; Here it gets tricky as there are ' Farm Fix ' repairs I don't usually suggest , like the welding it on the nose of the crank ~ that's extreme . You'd have to clean both surfaces shiny clean and get a good Welder (not many around these days) who can lay on a thin bead of weldment 360? around the joint between the inner edge of the damper and the outer edge of the crank shaft's nose , a weld with good penetration . I have also had very good results with Permatex' " Stud 'N Bearing Mount " , this is a liquid designed to fill up clearances between bearings and shafts , loose woodruff key ways and so on ~ in your case I'd give it a try before welding anything . Again , you'll have to totally de grease the entire area then wash the crank nose , key way , woodruff key and damper all with starting fluid before trying it as this is a " Hail Mary Pass " sort of repair . I feel your pain as I always get these sort of jobs , no one else can or wants , to try saving a thing , then I get it dumped into my lap . Please let us know how it goes .
