Ok, here we go. I traded a weight machine for a 72 c10 shortbed. Not lying. Since I obtained the truck I have added 601 heads w/2.02- 1.60 valves, performer intake, and eldebrock carb. Installed th 350c Trans and new rotors, calipers on all 4 wheels. New brake lines and front bearings. Complete front suspension. Today I did upper control arm bushings on both sides. To make a long story longer, here's the problem. Every part on this truck that has been replaced I have had to figure out what it originated from. Nothing on this truck is a stock part. Everything is way larger than stock. I haven't narrowed down exactly what front end is under the truck yet, but the bushings I got this morning came from an 87 Suburban. Moog bushings part # K6138. It seems part availability is running out. My Dad owned a junkyard when I was 15 so I built my first car, a 67 Chevelle, with his help when I needed it. I'm familiar with exchange books from that era, so I know multiple car parts fit multiple cars. But whoever built this truck went to extremes. Ford 9" out of 76 LTD Landau, 250 gear ratio. All in all a good running truck. After drive train is back to 100%, then comes the body work. Cab is rusting away but I have been welding for close to 35 years. Cab off and put on rotisserie for complete rehab. Little by little I bring her back. Hopefully on this forum, I'll make some friends and get a lot of helpful advice and possibly I can share some of my knowledge to someone who can use it. Thanks for reading. C10 Ironhead.
Welcome ! You'll find many use the '73 ~ '89 truck parts for the front suspension . The rest sounds like typical budget building , be sure to get a small lined paper notebook and jot down the details of what's what as you go along . Folks here really know their stuff so ask away ! they're often slow to respond but usually have the straight answers . Posting pictures helps garner replies .
Thanks Nate. Finished installing bushings today along with new upper ball joints. I bought new alignment shims also. Drove truck around to see how close I got it, and it pulls just a little bit to the right. I'm gone to see if I can dial it in a little better tomorrow. I have a 2' digital level and a tape measure. That should allow me to get it pretty close.
D.I.Y. Alignment When fixing pulling or drifting , be sure to measure BOTH front ties are the *exact* same diameter and pressure ~ my old Panel Truck ran Bridgestone E rater LT bias ply tires (hey , they were new and free , I was broke) , it pulled ever so slightly to the right , drove me and the Alignment Shop guy crazy until I discovered one tire was 1/4" larger diameter than the other.... . Anyways , you can do pretty well with a protractor if you're patient . Zero to 1/8" Toe In does the trick .
Truth be told Nate, when I pulled passenger side wheel off, all the shims were allover the top of cross member. I took pics of upper control arm shaft bolts and counted the threads. Then measured in mm each side of threads showing. So that when I put it back together it would be where it was before the shims fell out. I assumed that would get me close to alignment. Also there was what I'm going to call elliptical washers. One is convex shaped, and the other concave. Inside washer being the convex one. On the one facing front of truck the outer washer, concave, was missing. I assume it was removed to allow for the alignment. I used a large flat washer in it place so shims would set on flat surface. I then went to Eklers to see if these were available. They were not. Hopefully the alignment shop will have one or no how to make it work.
Truth be told Nate, when I pulled passenger side wheel off, all the shims were allover the top of cross member. I took pics of upper control arm shaft bolts and counted the threads. Then measured in mm each side of threads showing. So that when I put it back together it would be where it was before the shims fell out. I assumed that would get me close to alignment. Also there was what I'm going to call elliptical washers. One is convex shaped, and the other concave. Inside washer being the convex one. On the one facing front of truck the outer washer, concave, was missing. I assume it was removed to allow for the alignment. I used a large flat washer in it place so shims would set on flat surface. I then went to Eklers to see if these were available. They were not. Hopefully the alignment shop will have one or no how to make it work.
Galaxy WHUT ? It looks to me like you're well on track there . I especially like your NON RUSTY frame ! . Mine had very little of the original paint left on it , looks like a mirror now . I'm about to go add a couple crappy photos t my 292 engine build thread .
