I'm finally getting around to figuring out an engine for Elvin. He's a 1955 1st series 5 window 3100 named after my old school hot rod neighbor that passed away last year. He's just been sitting in my garage for awhile collecting dust. I want to stay with an inline six but the availability is getting more limited. I am looking at 250 and 292 engines as they seem to be a little more plentiful in my area. I am using a modern rear end and auto trans. Does anyone have any experience swapping these engines out? Your help/knowledge would be appreciated. Thanx, Dave.
Sounds like fun! Help should be on it's way. In the meantime, you could post us some more pictures of that truck.
Contact Chassis Engineering in Iowa. They have a very clean and simple mount set up and often offer them in a bolt on style. 319-643-2645.
250 c u in a 48 chev truck I just finished converting a 235 to a 250 in my sons 1948 chev truck. Engine was a good fit with very little mods. The motor mounts had to be changed and I chose to fabricate my own rather than buy the kit. Was not hard. The 700R4 transmissiion required the tunnel to be enlarged due to the larger diameter of the trans. Again minor sheetmetal work. Very impressed with the increased performance. Truck belongs to my Air Force son who is depolyed overseas and will be home in June. My goal is to have it ready by then - got a long way to go. Got a lot of pictures of the transformation bu dont know how to post them here. Two things he insisted on was the engine compartment look like original, thus, the 6 cylinder. The other was no shift stick up thru the floorboard. The original column shifter was connedted to the 700R4. Now, that was the hard part - but it's done.
Just the info I was looking for! That is the combination I am looking at. Did the 700R bolt up to the engine without any adaptors? What about the starter? What transmission bracket did you use? A father/son project is always fun. I've done a couple of them with my two boys and they are always rewarding. Thx, Dave. PS. If you ever figure out how to upload pictures we would all enjoy them.
250 c u in a 48 chev truck This is a father FOR son project since he is deployed overseas and has been gone for 20 months. But it is still fun. The 700R4 transmission is a direct bolt up to the 250 engine. That was part of the reason for going to the 250 and getting rid of the 235. The 235 requires an adaptor. It did require some "odd" (to me) starter. I will get the number for the starter when I go back out to the cold shop. Also I had to change the flywheel. The 250 had on it a 168 tooth flywheel and I had to go to the 139 tooth. I think that number is right. ken
one more time! The number for the starter is 3664 S. Bought it from Bumper to Bumper. We (Bumper to Bumper) could not find a number for the small/139 tooth Flexplate. Chev does strange things. The thingee on the back of motor for a standard transmission is called a "flywheel". The thingee on the back of the motor for a auto transmission is called a "flexplate".
I'm starting to get the 250/700R setup ready to install but I have a situation where i'm not sure where to locate the engine for clearances. I'm figuring about 1" clearance between the fan and the radiator but I'm not sure about the vertical dimensions. Would 1" between the harmonic balancer and front crossmember be OK? How critical is the engine position? Any help would be appreciated. Thx, Dave.
One inch is probably enough, but, I wouldn't want it any closer. I would probably try to get a little more if the trans. is not against the floor board. You need about 3 degrees down angle to the rear of the transmission. Just my 2 cents... Pictures always help. Steve.
Balancer to crossmember just needs to be enough to change out fan belt. You're already saddled up but using the 2004R trans is a better fit and plenty strong enough for a six banger.
My vote goes for the 700R4 as so many 200R4's have died , I'm not sure they're up to any serious driving or load hauling.... JMO .
I think the 700R is the way to go, mainly because they are so plentiful in my area. But what would be the advantage of a 200R4 other than fit? I am running 3.08 gears in the rear end.
Elvin Do you know anyone in your area with a complete 250 engine for sale If so let me know Thanks Robert
Robert, There a couple engines currently on sale in the San Francisco and Sacramento Craigslist listings, but I don't know of any engines first hand. Good luck, Dave. ( Elvin is the trucks name)
Robert ; The 1963 > 194.230/250/292 CID engines are all thinwall construction and suffer badly if the DPO didn't do routine hot oil changes . What this means is : if the seller says ' it runs fine it just burns a little oil ' , BEWARE as they cylinders are more than likely tapered meaning new rings and or pistons won't fix it . Harbor Freight sells a nifty inexpensive ' Cylinder Leakdown Tester ' you'll need an air compressor to use , it really tells you if any old engine is any good or not ~ remember : my 250 in my '69 C/10 runs like a raped ape but also fouls spark plugs because of this . I keep it sharply tuned so it runs hard and almost no visible smoke but you can smell the burning oil every where I go . Maybe you can find a Hot Rodder who's taking a good one out ? .
