Soooo I installed all my lines, bled everything, ended up with that much sought after "firm" pedal, checked all fittings for leaks and found 4. Each one (as you might remember if you read the installing disc brakes on 6 lug hubs) (or whatever the hell it is called) came from the factory fitting in the residual pressure valves I installed. Well, I finally got home in time to call them and let them know what was going on. "There was one customer that had that same problem. The way he solved it was taking the fitting out, applying sealant, and reinstalling it." My question. What do you think of this? The sales guy put me on hold a couple of times to talk with the tech guy and came back to tell me try tape or dope on the threads. I'm okay with that as long as the fluid wouldn't try dissolving either, and then contaminate the fluid. Sending in the old and getting new just feels like more of the same. Your advice/input is greatly appreciated, as being this close to having brakes is still so far away.
I take it the leak is where the flare adapter threads into the residual pressure valve. If so, this is a standard 1/8"pipe thread and can be sealed with teflon tape, or at least this fix has worked for me in the past. If the leak is where the brake line attaches to the flare adapter you'll have to re-flare / replace the line. John
Yes, this is on their end, not mine. The fluid is coming out of the fitting that screws into the body of the valve. Sounds like I need to take the valve out, unscrew the fitting, wrap some tape around it, and try it again. Then it will be a matter of seeing if the double flare ends that I installed will allow for a re-seating, or if they will leak~ I'll get there. Thanks for the ideas.
Did you flare the ends yourself? If so, it may be your flares. Hard to do correctly. Ask me how I know. Andy
No, Andy, all the lines I used were store bought. These valves have a solid, tubular shaped body with fittings on both ends that allow for the brake lines to attach. They all leak where their factory applied fitting is screwed into the body of the valve. I hope the picture shows better where I am talking about. I checked if I could maybe tighten them up, but they wouldn't screw in any further. Thanks!
Brake Leaks I'll never use any sort of tape dope on hydraulic brakes , the applied pressure exceeds a thousand pounds and tape / dope isn't rated for that . You don't want to DIE here . Are you using flare nut wrenches ? .
I wouldn't worry about using teflon tape on the pipe thread end of the adapters. Max pressure to the front brakes will be around 1000 -1200 psi with the rear brakes being about half of that. Googled up a couple of engineering sites and brass 1/8" pipe threads are rated at around 5000 psi using teflon tape as a sealant giving you a safety factor of at least 4. John
Speaking of Googling~ I found this interesting site. Hmmm. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...s/permatex-pneumatic-hydraulic-sealant-detail As always, thanks for the input!
Zig, I think some sealant like the Permatex product would be fine. Any pipe threaded connection should have some sort of thread sealant. I would not use tape on a brake system. Definitely no sealant on a flare fitting. I use tape on hyd. hoses on my semi dump trailer. Takes a lot of pressure to lift 52000 pounds with a 1" hose.
I would not put any faith in some gunk on the threads...not a science thing, but have done it to get me home! Recently, went thru some vintage lines on a trailer and 54 panel...found out that now there are all kinds of fittings, sizes, and configurations or ji-rations. Some in, some out, some doubled, some flat, some long, some short... bottom line...I would check again for sure what might have been put in. My two cents, but probably not worth more than .0005 cents. rod
That blue residual pressure valve looks like anodized aluminum? They suck and are designed for race purposes only not for street due to corrosion issues. You must use the much more expensive brass ones and that will solve your problem immediately. Here's the link to the good ones: http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/discbrake_kit_components.html
Zig, the Permatex product you linked to above says right on the applications list, for brake fittings. They also have a high temp. sealant, part number 59214, that lists automotive brake fittings. Not only would the proper sealant "seal", but, would prevent galling of threads. I think I would try some on the parts you have, see if it works. I think you will be able to tell, without leaving your garage. I agree with Andy, about brass versus alum., but you already have the parts.
Yup, my thoughts too, Steve. I checked and can get a small bottle at a couple of the auto parts places here and intend to do just that. Try it and see. As you say, I already have the parts. I'm pretty sure that as the years go on, I will be keeping close tabs on how everything is fairing, so when I see these valves starting to look suspect, then I will swap them out for the all brass ones. I sure hope it works like it sounds because I am really looking forward to working on getting the engine running! (which means, truck moving!) Thanks again everyone.
bad brain Already having the parts is bad thinking when it comes to the wrong parts. The aluminum valves are just wrong. If they are leaking it may mean they are stripping. Don't ask ME or my kids to go for a ride. Brake parts are not supposed to take sealant. They are supposed to SEAL. Period. Seriously Zig. It's your BRAKES. Please do what's right and make sure you can stop that screaming metal deathtrap before you put yourself or your family into it for a Sunday drive. You've done everything right so far. Don't mess up now. Much love, Andy
It's all my younger years, Andy~ Surprised I've made it this far, to tell you the truth. Well, I hate to say it, but I'm going with the thread sealer that a major company touts as effective on brake line threads. The residual pressure valves that I got have been sold to others, and so far there have not been any reports of major accidents from those who purchased these. I'm pretty sure that if a company was going to produce these for sale that they would make sure they do what they are supposed to do. The leakage problem was probably due to the specs the machine was given that was "supposed" to be right, but unless they spot check these every so often, they will never know there was an issue until a customer reports one. Unless, of course, they died in the accident. I appreciate you looking out for me and others, Andy. I promise I will give the system an intensive exercise at city speeds in areas where there is minimal traffic before I let loose my grip on the steering wheel, or pull the underwear out of where it crept into. Thanks!
Rest easy, Airheart knows a thing or two about brakes. http://mail.tolomatic.com/archives/pdfs/3999-0065_00_ExResPressPS.pdf
Wow, bad brain... Well, there you go Zig, you can take Permatex's advice, or airheart's advice, but, whatever you do, don't take mine. I guess I have a bad brain. Thanks, John, for clearing that up. My reason for not wanting to use tape was, because I was always told not to use tape where a strand of it could possibly get loose inside and cause a sticking valve. Such as an automatic trans. cooler line or some such thing. I guess I need to include a disclaimer in my signature line. Something like... The views, advice, and opinions of this forum member do not reflect the views of well anybody else, and should be considered suspect, and possibly dangerous...blah, blah, blah... Gee, Andy, is that a professional diagnosis or just a good jab? I've been told that on several occasions, but, usually by blue-collar guys using colorful language. Certainly not by a real doctor.
Fiddlesticks! Now I gotta take out the valves <again?!?!?> to replace the thread compound with tape?!?! WT... %@*%!!!! Just kidding~ I'm fine with Permatex compound on these threads ("for brake lines"). Besides, they are now back on. (I've always been a renegade, I guess.) Only look at these pictures with adult supervision.
Steve ; I'm with you ~ no sealants on brakes for the same reason . I often say " my advice is free and worth maybe 1 10th what you pay for it" .
