So I have had a moment to put some work to the truck again and I am working on getting the engine 100% ready to be mounted back on the frame. I could not do that without addressing installation of the clutch, bell housing, etc. I plan on putting in a T-5 tranny instead of putting back the stock tranny although I have not picked one up yet. I know nothing about clutches so I read the shop and assembly manual which didn't prove too helpful so I poked around online and also was not able to get the info I was looking for. My ring gear has 139 teeth and has been resurfaced. It is pictured below: Below are the pictures of the clutch that was in the truck before it was taken apart: So it looks like the clutch disk is about 9 7/8" and the clutch plate is about 10 1/8". There are 10 splines in the plate. What I need to know is what should I put back in considering I will be doing the T-5 tranny? Our host only seems to sell a 9 1/8", 10 1/2", 11", and 12". Quite honestly I don't know the difference it will make installing a different size or if it even matters. Also would I want a 3 finger or a diaphragm clutch as it appears those are different options. And if diaphragm is the better way to go, do I want a raised diaphragm or a flat diaphragm. My preference would be just to buy a kit that I can bolt on to my existing flywheel and would include the right throw out bearing as I have no idea as to what I need there either. I guess the good news is since I am doing it all from the frame up I can install the best parts for the application from the get go, I just really need some direction as to what those parts should be. If you need any additional info from me to provide guidance, please let me know
Since you have a diaphragm set up now it would be easier to stay with this. The three finger will require a different throw out bearing. You need to be looking at a clutch for your T5 which will have either 24 or 26 splines on the input shaft. If a Camaro T5 Rock Auto has a 9 11/16 26 spline disc for about 40 bucks. Part # 381057. It is close enough to fit your pressure plate.
Evan, Since I am doing a frame up with mine and I don't recall this clutch being in the best of shape when I took the car apart and when it was driveable, I can really put back whatever everyone thinks will be the best option. I would prefer to go with a brand new clutch set up all together instead of just replacing the clutch plate. The fingers of the diaphragm don't seem to look right but perhaps that is what happens over time. I know how to drive a stick but this is the first clutch I have ever seen. At a minimum though it sounds like you are saying that I really need to get my hands on the T-5 tranny first and see what is on the end of that and then figure out the clutch configuration from there? Does the flywheel on these trucks have a standard bolt pattern that any clutch will fit on to? How is the bolt pattern of the flywheel determined? Thanks in advance for the help and input.
Steve, we follow the KISS method when we do these swaps; use a new pressure plate and throw out bearing, but just like the present one, with just the clutch plate being different. The T5 input shaft is too long by about 3/8" or so so the front of the splines have to be turned/ground off that amount. I have heard there is a spacer plate that goes between the bellhousing and trans that takes care of this so a search should find one. We have a jig on our big old Monarch lathe to bolt the tranny to and turn the shaft back with the trans all together. Sometimes the very end of the input shaft also needs trimmed if it goes too far through the pilot bearing and bottoms out. You definitely need a T5 first to select the correct clutch plate. Remember to get the T5 with the shifter to the front unless you are running bucket seats as the rear mount shifter doesn't work with a bench seat.
Good info Evan especially getting the tranny with the shifter closer to the front. I would have overlooked that detail. The only challenge now seems to be finding the older T5 tranny with the manual speedo. I have search carpart.com, Craigslist, and even eBay and it does not appear that these are that easy to find. I have an email out to a shop on Craigslist that says they have one completely rebuilt for $950. Not really sure if that is a good deal or not?
They make digital to analog or mechanical converters but most of our customers choose a gps speedometer. It's dead accurate no matter what gears or tire size, fits the dash, and has other benefits. 900 for one that's truly rebuilt with bearings, synchros, forks, rails, gears as needed, etc is fair.
Evan - I will have to research this a little more but will the GPS odometer work with the existing old odometer? I am trying to keep it looking as stock as possible.
No it won't. You need to do a search on "T5 to 235 Chevy" and read up on the information offered. There are some step by step articles offered.
