So the other day I started on replacing the be dwood in my truck. Cut out the big piece of steel that was welded to side bed strips. Came out pretty easy with a little work. Tore out the rest of the rotten wood that pretty much just fell apart. So started taking to work on the side bed strips today and thought it was just stuck really good. After looking at it a little closer looks like it is spot welded all the way down. Is this usual and what's the best way to get these off the truck? Cut or drill or?
Bammiller, the bedside angle strips are spot welded on in several spots. Also, IIRC, the fender bolts go through in a couple places. If it were mine, I would use a spot weld cutter, and carefully cut through only the strips, leaving the bedside intact. I don't know if you've ever used a spot weld cutter, but, they cut fast. Cut slowly and you will remove those angle strips without even marking the bedside. Once you get ready to install the new strips, I would carefully drill the bedside and plug weld them on. The thing is, I will be painting, and if you did not want to burn paint, you could just bolt them back in, I suppose. Most auto parts stores should have a spot weld cutter kit. Just my opinion... Steve.
Steve's way is as good as any and better than most. We drill all the way through at the spot welds and then plug weld the new strips back on through these same drilled holes from the outside of the bed. Only five (or six) welds will have to be ground and finished as the others are hidden under the fender. If stainless we tig weld and polish back to bright or rough up and use Panel Bond. If mild steel a mig is used but any welder would work. Have a helper hold a wet cloth on the bed side at spot weld point to cut down on warping.
Ok thanks for the info, but I decided after a little work just to cut out the 2 bad spots on the rails and re-weld pieces in. Turned out pretty good for what it is. Next step now is to start staining the wood.
That is looking good! I went through Classic's parts catalog yesterday and wrote down all the parts I'll need for my bed. Next step, add it all up. Thanks for the update!
I ended up ordering all the pine wood and parts through our host Classic Parts with the 10% sale. Had the mounting holes pre drilled also. I was a little worried but lines up real well. I bought the angle covers also to put over existing strips, but does not fit very well in my opinion. So that's why I cut old ones and rewelded pieces in out some old bed strips from the truck.
Mar-K (maker of replacement bed parts) did a "Bed Wood Finish Test" in June of 2004 Wood Finish Testing - Testing of different wood finish products. They did several follow-ups, thru 2010. A good read.
This is why I put stainless steel plate in the bed of my truck. I have been a woodworker for 40+ years and nothing I have found has ever held up long in weather and use. I was afraid I'd spend more time sanding the bed then driving. I see a lot of beds at shows that are 1 never used and at home in the garage or 2 look like they have replaced and are cracked and weathered and that would drive me crazy. There are days I wish I had left the natural patina instead of painting. Oh well!? I love wood. Unlike metal it will do what I want it to! Papy
I guess I will be painting my boards~ Prime with POR-15 and paint with CHIEFS red. I can see it now...
So had a good productive day on bed today and good time hanging out with Dad. As the extra hand was a huge help with the bolts. Even though he likes the other brand A few bolts left mainly ones where the fuel tank is. Guess I will be dropping the tank.
WOW, Bammiller, looks good! Ya know, I drive through Danville, all the time. I'm keeping an eye out for you and your truck. There is a real cool survivor, 67-68 GMC, 4X4, that sits next to the NAPA store. Very cool old, unmolested truck. Steve.
Just an idea - Has anyone tried Locust for the bed. It is hard as nails and rot resistant. We have Locust hardwood floors in the house.
Black Locust would sure be durable and beautiful. Problem might be finding it. Not sure the flooring is the same. Good luck! Papy
Our floor IS black locust. A local lumber yard had random width 3/4" boards and they had not been able to sell them. They said people could not get nails into them without bending the nails. I asked if they could mill them tongue & groove for flooring and they could. They had just enough to do our whole house. Price was very reasonable. Locust is used for fence posts around here.
Black Locust became my new "favorite" wood a few years ago. Lumber shouldn't be too difficult to find, as it has been planted all over the US, and grows quickly. Make sure you use heartwood, as the sapwood does not exhibit the same rot-resistant properties. B.K., how about a picture of said house flooring? My house has random-width (up to a foot wide) Red Oak harvested from my property.
BK Your in There! Hedge and Black Locust are used here Kansas for posts also. Got to be careful not to use the honey locust (per dad and granddad) as it will not last. The Honey locust is prettier wood. I have never seen any for sale at a store but I have found it at saw mills. I'd like to see some pic's of the floor too. What part of the country are you in? Papy
