getting reato get in to the mess of wiring my truck Spent a couple of hours trying to figure out where to mount the fuse box I would like to mount under the seat maybe just have to add a couple of feet of wire to the head light switch I bought the speedway 18 circuit full size fuses my dilemma is I welded all the holes in the fire wall and don't want to put new holes in it anyone mount fuse box under the seat or any pic at all would be helpful Thanks
I use the Classic Parts harness and recommend them for a standard install, so since it is stock, it does not come with the facility of having a nice fuse box. So what I did is outlined here: Tip of the Week (42) for July 17-23, 2016 - Deve's Technical Network Forums I like the way it works and its easy to install using regular glass fuses. Hope this helps! I mounted it in the center of the firewall just above the bottom of the dash. Easy to get to, and accessible. The CIS is on the dash kick panel, so I needed a new place!
Mount up high so it can't get flooded. I like to mount with velcro so you can grab it and pull it down, instead of standing on your head to check fuses. Leave enough wire to let it clear the dash.
Good idea, but if you do it this way wrap ALL wires into a bundle (I like the spiral wrap plastic stuff, not the "self closing" slit stuff unless you use tie-wraps to hold it closed every 6" or so) and then mount the far end of the spiral wrap solidly to cab, dash, or whatever using an adel clamp.
On ones we make the firewall completely smooth we panel bond all the brackets and mounts to the inside; from fuse box mounts to heater/a-c mounts to braces for the steering column. There has been no weld or bolts used since the early 90's on Chevy pickup door hinges--they are glued on and one doesn't see the doors laying along the shoulder of the road. Use it anywhere paint could be messed up or heat could cause warping. Usually make a plate with studs for attaching whatever so it can be removed. The plate once bonded is as permanent as a welded or screwed on one.
The most popular is 3M Panel Bond. It's a bit pricey for an individual at about $25 for the tube and nozzles but the gun is near $100. Every body shop going now uses it as many of the new car panels are bonded with it, the Saturn was nearly all bonded. I'd nearly bet you could have the part and area on your fire wall prepped and a body shop would dab on the material needed--I know we would. It stays liquid for at least 30 minutes, probably more, so you could have a shop put it on the panel/mount and take it home to stick in place. Have pressure to hold in place and let cure overnight. We usually use screws to hold in place and then dab some in the screw holes and sand smooth but without buying the whole set up you surely can come up with someway to hold in place while it cures. Good luck.
New to the group and have a 1951 5window and we are putting the 24/7 fuse box and wire from Ron Francis in our truck and it is a magnetic fuse box so you can pull it down from its bracket and re-attach it when need to service it
A little trick... if you use the split wire conduit (don't know what else to call it) use appropriate size heat shrink instead of zip ties. Use where needed to prevent splits and the ends. The ends really look clean. The swap meets have 4 foot lengths, different colors and usually have a glue or epoxy in them. Glue is activated by a heat gun.
