Ball Joint Dust Boots

Discussion in '1973-1987' started by greenizgd, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. greenizgd

    greenizgd Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Messages:
    31
    I need help.
    I am tearing down my front end of my 74 C-10. I have bought my drop spindles so I am getting ready to install them. I also bought an Energy Suspension bushing kit. The only problem I have is that I cannot find any dust boots that will fit my upper and lower a arm ball joints.
    I talked to Energy suspension and they don't carry the exact dust boot for my truck, so they said use a universal tie rod dust boot. Well, the tie rod dust boots don't go large enough for either of the sizes of my a arm ball joints (my upper a arm ball joint dust boots is smaller than the lower). So I called them back and told them their dust boots didn't go large enough, so they said...and I quote, "well, thats the best we can do" followed by a click which was them hanging up.
    Anyway, I thought that I would just use my original ones, but that kind of went out the window when I destroy one of them when I was removing the old spindle. I looked around on the net for other tie rod or ball joint dust boots, but I couldn't find any to go large enough.
    The only other way is to change the ball joint itself...which I imagine is pretty tough. I can't see an easy way to change them.
    Another way I thought was to find sets of Energy Suspension ball joint dust boots and see if they were the right size I need. Energy suspension has boots for 1964-1988 gm cars...they might fit.

    Any help would be great....I really want to get my truck put back togehter.
     
  2. 77chevyman

    77chevyman Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2002
    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Windsor America the Beautiful
    Had the same probelm. When you change the spindles you tear up your joint dust boots.I called autopart stores they dont sell just the boot.You have to buy the ball joints to get the boots.Then you might as well change the ball joints.To do that you need a tool to press out the lower joint which the autoparts store will let you borrow with a deposit.The upper joints bolt on. When you remove the ball joints you need to use jack stands.. on the frame so you can use your floor jack under the A-arms to let tension off of the springs... GOOD LUCK... It's not to hard...
     
  3. greenizgd

    greenizgd Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Messages:
    31
    I think thats what I am going to have to do....buy new ball joints. I understand what you were saying about the bottom ball joint being pressed in, but the top on my is not bolted on....It kind of like it is rivited on. I am looking in my ##### catalog right now and I can't tell if they are bolted on. I have all my arms off right now so I can change the bushings, so I don't know if that would make it harder to change the ball joints.
     
  4. 77chevyman

    77chevyman Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2002
    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    Windsor America the Beautiful
    Yes,They are rivited! and almost 30 years old. Grind off top of rivits and use a punch to finish the job.Your new ones should come with bolts.

    Control Arm Shaft Bushings, Took to a Machine shop and had the old ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in. ($60.00 labor!)

    If your truck does not have front Stabilizer bar. Go to Salvage yard and get a used one with the Bushing retainer and bar to frame brackets.The stabilizer bushings are the only new part you should have to buy! I got mine off dads old truck...(FREEBEE!)...It is well worth putting on!

    Tie rod ends,Drag link,Idler arm,and Pitman arm if they are 30 years old or if there is any play in them. (REPLACE)!

    Take the truck to an Alignment Shoppe when you get her all put back together!

    LATER :7
     

Share This Page