Guys, here's is my thought. Rather then putting the relay system in for the halogen bulbs I may go back to the original bulbs (low wattage) and leave it original. The logic is I still have a generator on the truck with a power steering pump on the back of it so I’m not ready to go to an alternator. The second thought is I seldom drive the truck at night and the amount I do doesn’t warrant going the halagen route with relays. What I have read is that a generator is not the best for the higher wattage bulbs and if you want that you need to go to an alternator. Open to other logic, Thanks for your help.
Back up your sound logic with taking the headlight switch apart and polishing the contacts inside it then take the harness apart and remove every crimp connector, replace with a soldered one and add some ground wires as you go ~ Few ever bother to properly ground the generator's case to the regulator much less the body and/or frame..... Remember : there's a minimum voltage drop of 1/10 volt per connection/junction and when you begin adding up all the joints in the ground path between the headlight ground wire and the battery's ground point it's a lot, then add in the hot side's connections..... This is why some 6 volt systems have bright white lights (mine with an 80 watt generator) and others have dim or yellowy headlights with a 100 ampere alternator..... it's simple : do the basics, do them your own self and VIOLA ! no more electrical problems and always a fully charged battery .
Thanks Nate, will do. Truck has sat for 10 years and found the parking lights were intermittent. Took an ignition file to the contacts and that seem to clear that problem. One of the issues I have with the relay system is it will bypass the protection for the wiring which is the purpose of the contacts as I understand it. A self resetting fuse.
GOD NO ! . I keep saying this and folks do it anyway and cause them selves endless heartache....... Electrical contacts most NEVER BE ABRADED ! . burnishing files are for ignition contact & voltage regulator points -ONLY- ! . Use metal polish and discover bright lights and a switch that'll outlast you..... To - day I spent several hours cleaning up some old dead power window switches, I finished with two perfect ones in SWMBO's old station wagon and four decent ones I can use in my other old cars & give the rest away plus some spare parts to repair some for my brother's two old cars that use the same switches . Saving old vehicle switches is not difficult, just time consuming but have the correct, "Just So" original switch in place and working by your hands is nice, very nice .
Electrical flow is only good if every mechanical connection is also good . For co$t reasons our rigs came with fairly good quality steel wires, since they're all 50+ years old one can expect to have some resistance issues, issues that are difficult to fix by soldering the ends of the harness . I use and highly recommend the inexpensive stock harness, IIRC the '47 ~ '49 harness uses quite a few more fuses than do the later ones, the headlights should of course use a circuit breaker for safety and the ignition shouldn't be fused at all so really, how many fuses does one need ? . I know many love to $pend money and so rationalize the modern DIY harness' that are totally unnecessary and are mostly just to show off . My point is : take the time to sweat the little things and discover the timeless beauty of form follows function . If you like to tinker almost any newer than your truck's wiring harness and fuse box is dead simple to install and adapt.
