I feel badly I didn't write the 216/235/261 dizzy install back when I was daily working on them but it's fine .
No worries Nate. Your contributions are the most appreciated already. I have to say though, since I sell the HEI stock distributor mod, I get a LOT of people who are confused about how to remove and replace the dizzy. They spend hours and a lot of PAIN because of the gear turning and the oil pump slot being out of place. I try to explain it in my HEI video, but it doesn't always get through. One of these days, I will make a movie on how to pull the distributor, crank the starter before putting it back in so the timing is all messed up, then how to get everything back to normal again. That procedure is the most asked for.
Interesting Deve . ? Isn't the whole thing basically the same in that you need to align the oil pump drive slot to be a few degrees off where you want the rotor button's contact to be when the dizzy is slipped fully home ? . I use a bent up coat hanger (sort of small triangle on the engine end, crank shape on the out side end to facilitate turning) to align the oil pump drive..... I also use this to prime the bearings & top end after re assembly of an engine or to check the top end oiling .
I always recommend the person use a LARGE screwdriver for turning the slot. I then tell them to get two of those large screwdrivers so they can break the handle off one of them, chuck it in the drill, and use it to prime the oil pump while the Dizzy is out. With the valve cover removed (because you properly installed the gasket glued to the head, NOT the cover), you can check to make sure the last thing to get oiled in the system is working properly, the rocker assembly. The problem they run into every time is that "few degrees" you mention. I tell them to have the Dizzys wire outlet pointing at exactly 6 oclock when also at #1. This means #1 hole on the cap is at about 5 oclock. That should be the normal everyday perfectly timed position. When pulling the dizzy out, the rotor will turn to about 8 oclock. The problem is, as you are removing it, the oil pump slot stops turning (because you pulled past it) at about 7 oclock. When they try to install it, the pump slot is off just enough so you don't get the two 'clunks' when its properly down. Is there an advantage over the screwdriver using the coat hanger? My positions could be off a little, I am saying all this from memory. One important fact that I have run across is the rotor can be turning and there can be ZERO oil pressure at the same time. You have to be sure to check your oil pressure right away to make sure its down far enough. This is why in my video I tell them to take a sharpie and mark exactly across the Distributor shaft where the vac advance bracket meets before removing it. Then you KNOW its down all the way when that line is met. Still, I get on average a few calls a month with people asking why they cant get the Dizzy back in. Its always that 'few degrees' you are talking about. My problem is, I am not Nate, so explaining it is harder for me! One of the reasons why Nate is listed as the first long distance friend on page 6 of acknowledgements in my engine book.
"Nate is listed as the first long distance friend on page 6 of acknowledgements in my engine book" . ? I am ? wow . You have to remember that I was low on funds most of my life as a working mechanic as were my Customers and the many folks who asked me 'what do I do now ?' so $pending $20 for two new screwdriver's plus needing the knowledge of how to chuck it into a 3/8" drill most don't even own..... FWIW, I have always stuck the rocker box gaskets to the rockerbox, not the cylinder head as it's far too easy to touch and damage the gasket when doing routine valve adjustments and then you have a leaky rockerbox and are waiting for a new gasket and need to scrape and clean the cylinder head with out damaging the nice shiny gray paint on the engine..... .
The thinking behind sealing the gasket to the head is, the head has a very low profile (or Dam) to hold the oil inside of its parameters. By sealing the 7/16" new gasket (get the thicker one folks!) to the head, you are creating a higher wall to retain the oil so it doesn't leak down the back where they think they have a rear main seal leak when they do not. It will usually leak just down the back because of the 3 degree back slant of the engine. By not sealing the valve cover side, its easy to pop the top without an oil mess. I learned that from one of our Kansas good ole boys! I do not paint the surface where the valve cover meets the head. Gasket sealer seals better without paint in the way. But you DO have to be delicate with the wrenches during a valve adjustment.
Just a little off topic levity I was reminded of when talking about where to put sealer on the gasket... It is more logical to put the toilet paper roll overhand in the roll holder. This is because when everyone grabs the paper, they are also touching the wall if its the other way, and it becomes unsanitary pretty quick. How many people do you know who wash that wall as a routine? Always put the toilet paper on over the top! Pedantic yes, Logical yes, Important? You be the judge!
Understood, I'll always put the gasket on the cover, no weeps/seeps/leaks yet . As far as toilet paper rolls, you'd have to have BIG hands t0 be touching the wall each time . I'm an 'under' guy my self as I find it easier to make a single handed neat tear off that way..... This was always the #1 topic back when newspapers Et Al had write in columns . Everyone has their favorite reason for claiming the best way, I read some Boeing Engineers thoughts on it and tried the underhand and it stuck . I doubt it really makes much difference in fact . just how one likes it to hang .
