Oil seams comming out at the end of the engine

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by wokri, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. wokri

    wokri Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2008
    Messages:
    325
    Location:
    Germany
    Hello,
    it seams that oil is coming out at the end of the engine. I think the
    Rope Style Rear Main Seal lets oil out. I had a rubber seal assembled. May be that didn't works.
    If I like to change the main seal. Want have I to do?
    If you will give me an answer, the do it step by step how I have to change the seal.
    Ask
    Wolfgang
     
  2. e015475

    e015475 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2014
    Messages:
    240
    Location:
    Show Low AZ
    It would be helpful if you could post what engine you have. I'm going to assume it is a 216 Chevrolet six cylinder

    My first question is - has the rubber seal always leaked since it was installed? Or has it just started leaking? If it just started leaking, how many miles since new?

    If it has just started leaking, you might try some of the oil additives that expand the rubber seal. I've had good results with these products, especially the 'Lucas" brand here in the US. It only lasts 15-20000 miles, but it may be useful for you. Any store that supplies automotive parts should be able to recommend a product that 'renews' the seals.

    Best Oil Stop Leak Additives: Protect Your Fuel System

    If the rubber seal has always leaked, then the seal is not concentric with the crankshaft or the crankshaft sealing surface is not adequate. In either case, you must pull the engine and take it to a automotive machine shop to have the seal bore machined concentric with the crankshaft centerline or the seal surface on the crank polished so it will seal (or both)

    It is very likely that the crank is worn where the rope seal contacted it to the point that the rubber seal's lip cannot seal. In the US, they market a repair called a 'Speedi Seal' that is a thin metal shell that fits over the crank's sealing area and provides a new surface for the rubber seal lip to ride and a slightly larger diameter so the seal lip applies more pressure to the surface of the crank. This is the least expensive option. You can also have it welded up or plasma sprayed then returned to its nominal dimension by grinding, or you can 'grind-plate-grind' with chrome plating to build it up again, but these tend to be costly solutions.

    I'm sorry to tell you that if swelling the seal with an oil additive like Lucas does not correct the problem, your task is to remove the engine and take it to a machine shop for a proper repair of the block, crankshaft, or both.

    Removing the transmission, bell housing and clutch and simply replacing the rubber seal may work for a few miles, but is not likely to be a permanent solution.

    Regards,
     

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